Alright i am going too purchase some KYB AGX's for my NX and i have some sprint springs right now and front and rear non adjustable suspension technique sway bars and front and rear strut bars and soon some front fender braces so the question is how should i set up my NX for some kick ass times at the local SCCA
what tires and how much tire pressure and etc...

Thanks...

SCCA what? Club Racing, Solo, Time Trials, Road Rally, PDX, Hill Climbs???

There are several kinds of SCCA events.

my guess is that he is talking about autocross's???

yes sorry i didnt mean too specify which form.

For autocross that front ST bar will kill you. I would leave the stock one on and stick with the rear ST bar, or upgrade to Progress if you can afford it.
Leaving the stock sway bar on the front will be an effective and no-cost improvement.

^ exactly. Running a big bar on the rear and the stock bar up front means a lot more useful oversteer. Buy some Tein SS's while your at it.

I've got the Progress rear bar, stock front bar, Road Magnet Springs off of the group buy on here, KYB AGX's. All on my 91 NX. The best advice I give you is a good set of tires, some Azenies or slicks if you got some extra wheels. You will be amazed at what a difference a set of tires will make.

Alright i am going too purchase some KYB AGX's for my NX and i have some sprint springs right now and front and rear non adjustable suspension technique sway bars and front and rear strut bars and soon some front fender braces so the question is how should i set up my NX for some kick ass times at the local SCCA
what tires and how much tire pressure and etc...

Thanks...
Spring springs are not designed properly, they are pretty much awful. They lower the car way too much, and do not have a high enough spring rate.

Perhaps this thread will help you out:

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=170794

Sprint - http://www.sprintspring.com/ (Applications: B13, B14, B15)
All of them: 2" drop front, 2" drop rear.
Rate - Per Sprint springs technical support line: "Our spring rates are confidential. Competitors have been blatently copying us. All manufacturers would not test them the same anyways (we discussed Dynojet Dynos vs. Mustang Dynos as an analogy). I asked him about the 2" drop, OEM being 3", you now have one inch of suspension travel. He dodged, said all their springs ride great, I will love the way the car drives, etc...." Bah, nice guy, lame answers.
You have exactly one (1) inch of suspension travel left. 33% of the fairly limited OEM factory suspension travel. You are riding on your bumpstops. :(

The first thing you should do is ditch those springs. If you want a performance suspension with conventional springs, you have two choices, Hyperco or Road Magnet. Both of which are SR20Forum exclusives, both of which will work with your planned AGX's. All the other mass-produced conventional springs from the major manufacturers suck donkey balls.

You might also consider CSK's (Custom Shortened Koni's), which would be a better (more expensive) choice than the AGX's. The AGX's will work, the CSK's are better. When utilized with the Hyperco or Road Magnet springs, CSK's will retain (pretty much) your full OEM suspension travel. See more details on CSK's in the thread above.

Best of luck to you, hope that helps.

some front fender braces

WTF?!?!

BTW, that spring/shock combo with be teh suck.

You really need to tell us what exactly you'll be doing. SCCA what???? Be specific.

WTF?!?!

BTW, that spring/shock combo with be teh suck.

You really need to tell us what exactly you'll be doing. SCCA what???? Be specific.
Fender braces are covered in the suspension thread, but I am pretty damn sure you know more about suspensions than I do. :)

Currently, someone is fabbing up a small batch, there is a Group Buy on them. There's a link in the thread above.

I have NO clue on SCCA anything. Just spotted those springs, and they are the suckness for any use.

OK, I am 99.9999% POSITIVE fender braces are illegal for ANY SCCA autocross class except something-modifed (Street mod, E-mod, D-mod).

1) Figure out what you want to do

2) Buy a rulebook

3) Read the rulebook

3a) UNDERSTAND the rulebook*

4) Pick a CLASS you would like to participate in

5) Modify your car within the rules of that class.

I'm telling you now, if you get all mod-happy without a end-goal in mind and show up to an autocross and wind up in Street-Mod class against 400+ hp Evo 8s and STis, IT'S YOUR OWN FAULT FOR NOT READING THE RULE BOOK, and you'll get no sympathy from us because a $50 part you though was cool is illegal in all but the highest autocross clases. We told you.


*A fine example:

Novice shows up to autocross. He wants to know what stock class he's in. We'd often say: "That cone intake puts you in street prepared. It's not a stock part."

He says:"But the rules say the filter is free to be modified."

We say:" Indeed it does. But it doesn't say you can remove/modify the filter HOUSING, now, does it? Welcome to Street Prepared class..."

Him: "SHIT!"

OK, I am 99.9999% POSITIVE fender braces are illegal for ANY SCCA autocross class except something-modifed (Street mod, E-mod, D-mod).

1) Figure out what you want to do

2) Buy a rulebook

3) Read the rulebook

4) Pick a CLASS you would like to participate in

5) Modify your car within the rules of that class.

I'm telling you now, if you get all mod-happy without a end-goal in mind and show up to an autocross and wind up in Street-Mod class against 400+ hp Evo 8s and STis, IT'S YOUR OWN FAULT FOR NOT READING THE RULE BOOK, and you'll get no sympathy from us because a $50 part you though was cool is illegal in all but the highest autocross clases. We told you.

This man speaks the truth.

I personally would pick GS. The NX2000 is VERY VERY VERY competative in G stock... and it will take very little mods to get it to the rape ass stage.

(NOTE: I am just grabbing ideas off the top of my head. I would check each of these mods to make sure they were GS legal before doing so. I am pretty sure they are legal unless I put a * next to it.)

My GS NX would be something as follows:

1991 hardtop
remove AC
remove PS and install a manual E rack *
get the lightest 14x6 wheels you can find
HOOSIERS!!!!!!! you can run slicks in stock class... you can't in STS!!
remove stereo - install sentra E stock radio block off plate

energy suspension bushing kit
ES shifter bushing kit
prothane motor mounts

kyb GR2 (brand new)
rebuild the brakes, get some metal masters

2.5" mandrel bent exhaust or some 2.5" side exit



If you did all that... you would have a G stock fist machine.


however.... STS built cars are the most fun on the track and on the street. you won't be nearly as competative though. you will be against scary autox built hondas.

however.... STS built cars are the most fun on the track and on the street. you won't be nearly as competative though. you will be against scary autox built hondas.

True.

I picked STX because it allows more track-friendly mods (LSD, big brakes). And I'm no more/less competetive against a 300hp WRX than I am against a <2000lb Civic Si (which is, not competetive at all). Locally, I do OK.

True.

I picked STX because it allows more track-friendly mods (LSD, big brakes). And I'm no more/less competetive against a 300hp WRX than I am against a <2000lb Civic Si (which is, not competetive at all). Locally, I do OK.

Yeah, many people on this forum bash Hondas. All the people on this forum who autocross hold their tongue. This is for a good reason. :)

True.

I picked STX because it allows more track-friendly mods (LSD, big brakes). And I'm no more/less competetive against a 300hp WRX than I am against a <2000lb Civic Si (which is, not competetive at all). Locally, I do OK.


That's why I drive a STX Type R now... which is still underclassed for STX....:( but we're getting closer.....;)

thanks guys

The rear suspension on the NX has adjustable camber and toe. Adjust the camber as far as you can go (probably about -1 degree) this helps the tires. since you can't file the slots the in stock, the way I did this is to have the biggest guy in the shop lifting on a 8 foot 2x4 stuck through the wheels while the other guy tightened the nuts.

Now to dial under or over stear dial change the toe. At about 2/32 toe in and the back end will never come around. set the toe out to about 2/32 and the back end will be wildly loose. No need to change the sway bars.

after lots of playing I decided that 0/32 worked best.

How do I know this? I ran a NX2000 at 10-20 solo 2 events per year for 10 years.

I now drive a Lotus for Solo 2 ;-)

I would check each of these mods to make sure they were GS legal before doing so. I am pretty sure they are legal unless I put a * next to it.)


remove PS and install a manual E rack *

remove stereo - install sentra E stock radio block off plate

energy suspension bushing kit
ES shifter bushing kit
prothane motor mounts



All illegal for stock.

You would also need way more aggressive struts. GR2's are now where near stiff enough.