Since I had a garage install my starter I am bringing it back tomorrow because it is still giving me issues. A few days this weekend my car did not want to start. Just the click and then nothing. I then tried to start it with jumper cables and it started right up. I had the battery tested and it was fine. I had it tested again and it was still fine. Again, at a later date, the car didnt start...just click when I turned the key, and again, I used the cables...and it started right up. So I cannot figure out what the deal is with my ride. The garage will be checking it out AGAIN...but they seemed stumped as to the issue. Is it because the starter is a refurb and maybe it isnt working right and the cables just give it that extra juice it needs? Or is it all coincidence. If it happens again and the jumper cables work..then I dont think it is coicidence. ANyone have any ideas what the hell is wrong? I give up trying to figure it out.

Dont even get me started on this. I replaced mine 4 times in as many months and finally figured out that the circuit that runs from the ignition switch, through all the factory keyless entry system and clutch enable circuit was bad. I simply fixed this by finding a wire on the ignition switch that gave 12V when the key was turned, ran it through the firewall then to the signal wire on the starter. Has started everytime since then with no ill effects! :D

Holy crap...maybe that is what is wrong with mine. I have an ignition kill system and a keyless entry system on my car. I had been thinking it could be that...but why would using the jumper cables start my car? I mean, how does that bypass that whole faulty ignition system?

What did you do when you used the cables? Exactly where did you touch both ends of the NEG and POS of the cables??? I can tell you more if I know that! :D

I connected them to the part on the battery where the screw goes through the harness....like clipped the prongs onto the screws themselves. Not onto the terminal part...the nub part?

I follwed the same on the connecting car. Neither were directly on the terminals...I thought this was how you always did it...seem like the only way to ge ta snug fit.

You have a voltage drop somewhere, as I did. Do this, take a wire and run it to the signal wire on the starter, next:

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL AND THE PARKING BRAKE ON!

touch that new wire to the positive on the battery, if she spins and tries to start, then you know there is a bad wire/connection/circuit between the ignition switch and the starter signal wire.

Here is the thing though...a lot of the time my car starts right up...this happens like once a day. How could I tell where it was if it starts right up? Is there any way or will I just have to wait till it doesnt start again?

by the way....I appreciate all your help.

You may have to bust out the digital volt/ohm meter next. Test how much current is actually getting to that signal wire when you turn the key, and how much is leaving the ignition switch. Its odd that it only does it once in a while though, that would lead me to believe you have a bad ground to the engine itself or faulty starter/brushes. Like its getting hung on the flywheel when the plunger engages, but just doesnt have enough juice to turn it. Hmmmm....

Anyone else have a suggestion for this guy?? I know how much a pain in the ass this situation is, you should search for my past posts on the subject, good venting material! :D

Thats some spicy stuff. I have seen others have issues like this. I dont have a volt meter yet...but I think I might pick one up just for future use if nothing. Since the starter install was guarunteed to fix the problem..the garage has to fix the issue...so if they fixed the starter and it had nothign to do iwth it...then they have to fix what is really wrong...so I guess I will just wait... Your help will actually help me guide them tomorrow.

Cool, just remind them of how ridiculously priced the starters are for these cars and you dont have time to play the $200 swap a starter game with them! ;) Let me know what you find out!

Hell yeah. I already threw a bunch of starter OEM non refurb prices in their face when I saw what they charged me for a god damn refurb starter. I was pissed off to begin with at the price for the part and install..they wont get off easy here. I dont think they expect to either the way I was over the phone today. I should have just done it myslef....grrrr.....ok I will keep you posted.

1 day later and they still cannot find the problem. THey have located a voltage loss in the right side of the ignition or something like that. However, once they started checking it further they said that the car turned over and they were no longer getting the voltage loss. SO they said they would need my car again today to further try to find out what is wrong. They are baffled and have never seen something like this. I just want my damn car back...driving a ford explorer with broken seat today....IT SUCKS. Need her back!!!!

:mad:

You could have a dead spot in the starter I suppose. If you buy a meter you might think about spending a little more to get a clamp meter so you can measure amperage. I think you can get a decent clamp meter for around $90 that will measure DC current. Most meters don't measure current except in the milliamps. I bought a Fluke 36 and it cost me $200 and although it's a good meter, as rarely as I use it I could get by with a cheaper meter. I don't know what they are baffled about. ProjectSE-R's testing suggestion ought to at least help them to narrow it down to if there is a problem before the starter or if it is the starter itself. I don't know about SR20DE's, but the starter on my GA16DE is right on top of the tranny and is really easy to get to and remove. If they can't figure it out I'd try tackling it myself.

Sounds like your battery isn't holding a charge for very long. How did you test you battery?

Michael.

Supposedly all fixed. They said it was something in the ignition between the wires for my aftermarket alarm and the starter. they said that there were loose wires that were unsodered and that was weer the loss of voltage was detected. He replaced it with a new "switch" or rewired it and then sodered the loose wires. I will find out by just testing it out...they said everything is fine now...but they will never no for sure because the car wont turn over randomly. Man, I always have issues with Nissans and starters. One of my few complaints about nissans.

Battery was tested several time now....I dont want to spend that sort of money on a voltage meter of that caliber. I will stick with my simple one. Thanks for all the ideas...if I have any more issues I will post again. Your suggestions really gave me a better idea going into this...the garage was surprised I knew so much...or was informed so much. ;)

Maybe I missed something, but did anyone ever consider a bad alternator/regulator?

Looks like its fixed. A new ignition switch and some freelance soddering was all It needed. Engine has been turning over strong and had no problems yesterday and today.

Bout time!;)

and now I plan on kicking some 1.6 liter ass. :D
Get over here purple NX!!!!