I've been looking around and I am wondering if it is possible to fit 300zx Calipers and Rotors onto a Classic Se-R with 15 inch rotas? Would I also need to get the 300zx Master cylinder as well?

Originally posted by PSSSHHHGOESMYSR20
I've been looking around and I am wondering if it is possible to fit 300zx Calipers and Rotors onto a Classic Se-R with 15 inch rotas? Would I also need to get the 300zx Master cylinder as well?

Mike, I'm sure you can fabricate an adapter bracket that will work. But.... The 300ZX caliper is very wide. It's an almost bolt-on solution for the G20. The problem is the width. You run into problems with contacting the inside of the wheel. IMHO the Wilwood or similar race calipers would be a better solution. The only thing you get with the 300ZX calipers is a dust thingie around the piston.

George, I do agree with you on that one. I do wish the willwood came with the dust cover for the simple reason of when it rains, or going through puddles. I just want to keep the calipers safe, and in good working order ;)

Originally posted by PSSSHHHGOESMYSR20
George, I do agree with you on that one. I do wish the willwood came with the dust cover for the simple reason of when it rains, or going through puddles. I just want to keep the calipers safe, and in good working order ;)

The dust boot/cover is no big deal. If you need the bigger brakes you are probably doing track events. Most people bleed the brakes before every track event to get any water absorbed by the brakes out of the lines. What I am saying is just bleed the brakes more often to flush them out. Also, Wilwood sells a rebuild kit for a very fair price.

Steve

Originally posted by 98sr20de


The dust boot/cover is no big deal. If you need the bigger brakes you are probably doing track events. Most people bleed the brakes before every track event to get any water absorbed by the brakes out of the lines. What I am saying is just bleed the brakes more often to flush them out. Also, Wilwood sells a rebuild kit for a very fair price.

Steve


That's not what I'm saying at all. What I am saying is the dust plate helps keep water from getting into the caliper and brake pads while driving in the rain, or through puddles. If this does happen you could pump your brakes but if it is wet out side and you are for some Odd/Dumb reason hauling ass in the rain, when it comes time to apply the brakes they may not work as affectively as they would if they were dry. Water inside the brake lines? Where did you come up with this Idea from?

Originally posted by PSSSHHHGOESMYSR20

Water inside the brake lines? Where did you come up with this Idea from?

In the past it has been said that the Wilwoods are race calipers and do not have the same amount of protection from the elements as the stock calipers (not by you, but by others). That is what I was assuming you were concerned about. If you are more concerned about keeping the dust shield then you can keep it with the Wilwoods. I have had the Wilwoods on (and off) my car and have yet to remove that splashguard. It is ugly now but still functional. If you cared you could bend it neatly out of the way but keep it in place. As far as water in the fluid. The moment you bleed your brakes the brake fluid begins to absorb water from the air. When it rains it absorbs it through the caliper (past the seals on the pistons). The OEM caliper has a more effective seal to prevent this from happening as quickly. As the fluid absorbs this water it lowers it boiling point. Look at a bottle of brake fluid. You will see a wet and a dry boiling point. The wet is much lower. That is why people bleed the brakes right before a track event.

Steve

Originally posted by PSSSHHHGOESMYSR20
That's not what I'm saying at all. What I am saying is the dust plate helps keep water from getting into the caliper and brake pads while driving in the rain, or through puddles. If this does happen you could pump your brakes but if it is wet out side and you are for some Odd/Dumb reason hauling ass in the rain, when it comes time to apply the brakes they may not work as affectively as they would if they were dry. Water inside the brake lines? Where did you come up with this Idea from?

Mike, if you're talking about the splash shields, ditche 'em. My hasn't had them for 5 years. What I found is occasionally the first application of the brakes after going through a major puddle (remember, we get Acts of God here) there can be an issue with reduced braking capacity, but once I brake once, there are no other problems. Personally, I find this less annoying than cold Axxis pads first thing in the morning.

If you're talking about the dust shields for the pistons, don't sweat it. Don't forget that Wilwoods are racing brakes. Road racers race in the rain. Water is absolutley not a problem. The only concern would be foreign matter from the road and surrounding areas finding their way to the pistons and somehow boogering the bores. It's possible this could be a problem, but if you maintain your brakes anyway resembling normal for an enthusiast, I doubt you'll have anything to worry about.

So the 300ZX TT brakes would work otherwise? I have access to a set of 300ZX brakes and have been worried about clearance issues. I'll try fitting them under my Spoon SW388's (16X7") and let you guys know if they clear. Probably won't be for a couple of weeks though. I know the brake lines are different, but I heard there might be clearance issues with the caliper hitting other things other than the wheels. We'll find out soon...

Steve, thanks for explaining that to me now I understand where you were coming from.

Geo, thanks for the valued points and I will deffinately look into it. A matter of fact after I wrote this thread, I looked up the fastbrakes once again, and have since decided to go with the 11.75 inch set up for my turbo application. I've been in situations where I was unable to stop in a timely matter, and to tell you the truth it scared the shit out of me. I don't feel like being in such a situation like that anytime soon. Thanks gents.

Originally posted by Geo91SER


Mike, if you're talking about the splash shields, ditche 'em. My hasn't had them for 5 years. What I found is occasionally the first application of the brakes after going through a major puddle (remember, we get Acts of God here) there can be an issue with reduced braking capacity, but once I brake once, there are no other problems. Personally, I find this less annoying than cold Axxis pads first thing in the morning.

If you're talking about the dust shields for the pistons, don't sweat it. Don't forget that Wilwoods are racing brakes. Road racers race in the rain. Water is absolutley not a problem. The only concern would be foreign matter from the road and surrounding areas finding their way to the pistons and somehow boogering the bores. It's possible this could be a problem, but if you maintain your brakes anyway resembling normal for an enthusiast, I doubt you'll have anything to worry about.

Originally posted by hey808
So the 300ZX TT brakes would work otherwise? I have access to a set of 300ZX brakes and have been worried about clearance issues. I'll try fitting them under my Spoon SW388's (16X7") and let you guys know if they clear. Probably won't be for a couple of weeks though. I know the brake lines are different, but I heard there might be clearance issues with the caliper hitting other things other than the wheels. We'll find out soon...

You'll have to figure it out. You'd need an adapter bracket, the rotors, the hats, work out all the dimensions. It's not rocket science, but it's not plug n play either.

I'v talked to Steve at SMC and this would be more trouble than it's worth. The offset and stuff is wrong. Oh and the Wilwood's work great on a sprint car. That's about as nasty as it get's for brake's. The rotor's are red hot and glowin after 3-4 lap's and the dust is unreal.

Originally posted by james vick
Oh and the Wilwood's work great on a sprint car. That's about as nasty as it get's for brake's. The rotor's are red hot and glowin after 3-4 lap's and the dust is unreal.

Excellent point James.

I dont know if any of you have seen this page, but it may come in handy if you plan on doing the 300z brakes: http://users.ev1.net/~jdiaz/xfi/g20/brakes.html