Does anybody know what the brake lines going into the master cylinder are? I could also use a general education on the on the NPT/AN3/AN4 thing. I know metric but the rest is just confusing.

Steve

Here's a great page (courtesy of Nitrous Oxide Systems) that explains what AN sizes are all about: http://www.nosnitrous.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/EPP/EPPTS/ANsizes.html

As for the brake lines running into the master cylinder....um...they go to the brakes? I don't understand specifically what your asking for. Are you trying to determine the size/thread pitch of those lines?

Originally posted by SERprise In WV
Are you trying to determine the size/thread pitch of those lines?

Yes that is what I meant. Anybody know the answer. Greg, thanks for the link.

Steve

Originally posted by SERprise In WV
Here's a great page (courtesy of Nitrous Oxide Systems) that explains what AN sizes are all about: http://www.nosnitrous.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/EPP/EPPTS/ANsizes.html



This is the one thing that I was very unsure about for the future turbo install. Thanks for the link, it is starting to become clear.

Originally posted by 98sr20de
Does anybody know what the brake lines going into the master cylinder are? I could also use a general education on the on the NPT/AN3/AN4 thing. I know metric but the rest is just confusing.
From memory they are a standad 8mm but I'm getting old so the chances of being wrong are rather high.

I was finally able to get my dial calipers over one of the male bolts that go into the MC (had to take the intake off). It measured at 10mm. I bet it is a 10X1.0 and if so I am almost to the point of being able to make a set of lines to go in there to attach a Wilwood proportioning valve. What fun.

Steve

most brake lines are 3/16th tubing nuts with metric threads. I do believe that most brake lines are M10 x 1.0 though. If you are going to buy a wilwood proportioning valve be sure to find out whether it has metric threads or standard threads. Most 3/16th brake line sections are sold in various straight lengths with either metric tubing nuts or standard tubing nuts.

Best bet is to get a double flare kit and buy a section of tubing and cut one end off. Put a new tubing nut on it and double flare the end. (Make sure you double flare it or it won't hold.)

There are also NPT threads (National pipe thread) and BSPT (british standard pipe threads). Just so happens our oil sending units are BSPT on these cars. Don't ask me why, Cause i don't know.

Rick

Originally posted by Rocketman

Best bet is to get a double flare kit and buy a section of tubing and cut one end off. Put a new tubing nut on it and double flare the end. (Make sure you double flare it or it won't hold.)

Rick

I was hoping to avoid cutting the tube. If I screw up it is a $100 mistake to get a new tube from Nissan. I know about the double flare tool and have used a single flare tool plenty. Is it very different? Has anyone done this to the oem pipes? I am concerned about cutting the pipe and then finding out for some strange reason it wont work with the tools I have.

Steve

Well what i was saying was to buy a new peice of straight tubing and then bend it yourself. Gotta get a tubing bender for this. Its a cheap little 10 dollar tool at most auto parts stores.

Double flaring is not that different from single flares. It essentially adds another step into the mix. You have to put an anvil in the tube first and press the end of the tube so it looks a little like this (forgive the Ascii art please)

/ \
\ /

then you remove the anvil and use the normal flaring end to make it look something like this......

\\ //

the upper part in the first picture folds inside and and then down and it overlaps.

I really hope that helps. I know its kinda hard to get the idea from Ascii art though.

Rick

Originally posted by Rocketman
Well what i was saying was to buy a new peice of straight tubing and then bend it yourself. Gotta get a tubing bender for this. Its a cheap little 10 dollar tool at most auto parts stores.

Rick

If I knew I could do it right I would just cut my lines on the firewall and take about an inch out. Double flare both ends and put the proportioning valve right in there. Nice and clean and no extra pipes. Once you cut that line there is no turning back. Thanks for your help.

Steve