having a tough time what should i get first.

my list:

1. jwt cams
2. prothane motor mount inserts
3. thermoblock spacers
4. adj fpr
5. apexi s-afc
6. progress front/rear sway bar
7. powerstop slotted rotors
8. new hood (blck) primed hood
9. front lip
10. new bushings for suspension
11. new axle ( my passenger side is starting to wear out)

dont know. need $0.02

i'd myself go:

11 first because repairs before modding
then 2, 1,6,4,5,8,7,9,10.

save up and do it all at once!!!! thats when its fun.

But id start with the axle

its more like the cv joint. i dont think its anything to serious as long as i dont take turns so hard on the pass. side. my stock mounts are going out BAD and they're ugly and so are the suspension bushings. overall everything else is fine. i still need to d wanting of more power so i was thinking about cams first since their on sell at the moment. thermoblock spacers are good also since the hot weather is coming back here in FL. oh and 1 more thing is a 5mm wheel spacer. i wanna tuck out the rear wheels a bit. ;)

I would do the axle, bushings, advance my timing, do a good tune-up, then mod from there.

the thing is that i have work already done I/H/E, pulleys,timing,bigger tb,suspension, blah blah, except for those parts that i list.

Do the axle first, then the motor mounts.

Forget the slotted rotors and do the AD22V brakes if you don't already have them.

looks like more votes are going to the cv joint axle.

axle, bushings, timing & tune, tires, then brakes

i'd myself go:

11 first because repairs before modding
then 2, 1,6,4,5,8,7,9,10.



:biggthump i agree!

yea i know but it seems that the mod bug is bitting me alot. i think i gonna forget it and spend my rent $$$$ and buy it all. than letting my landlord chase after my ass for the next month. :D

yea i know but it seems that the mod bug is bitting me alot. i think i gonna forget it and spend my rent $$$$ and buy it all. than letting my landlord chase after my ass for the next month. :D
trust me...bein there not fun.

1. CV axel. no point in modding stuff then having your axel break in another week and the car is down because you dont have enough $$'s to get the axel.
2. prothains from www.lightningmotorsports.com $55 shipped. <your replacing bad parts with upgraded parts....2 birds 1 stone.
3. ES suspension bushings........2 birds 1 stone again (yours may not be BAD.......but their 15 years old.....their gona be bad soon)
4. front lip......your car runs and rides great now......make her alittle pretty:biggthump
5. rotors and sways at the same time (youl have the thing on jack stands for both mods......why not at the same time?
6. JWT cams, FPR, thermo spacers, SAFC all at the same time. this is where the MONEY is and the power. you will need alot of time for these mods (mostly the spacers) so save up and buy these.......and a few cases of beer and a few pizzas.........now trick your friends into coming over and have 4 monkeys working on your car at the same time:biggthump beer never fails.
7. primer black hood........gets my vote for never.

#6 sounds pretty reasonable....lol. the fpr/cams wont take that hard w/ some help. but the spacers will take some time getting all those hoses/sensors off. how hard is it to swap in cams? do i have to loosened up the timing chain first correct?

#6 sounds pretty reasonable....lol. the fpr/cams wont take that hard w/ some help. but the spacers will take some time getting all those hoses/sensors off. how hard is it to swap in cams? do i have to loosened up the timing chain first correct?

the best thing to do is to just remove the chain tensoner. use some nail polish or paint and make a mark on the chain and cam gear so you know were to place the cam once installed (if you dont do that you will have to remove the timing cover and completly re-time the car....PITA) then swap the cam gear to the new cam toss them in the head (TQ them correctly) and use, i think its a 1 inch wrench, and turn the cam untill the mark on the chain and the gear line up together.

ok so basically i have to drop in the new cam the same way that is lined up with the stock cam and marking it also. where exactly is the chain tensionor? is it the gear below the 2 top cam gears? im not too familier with swapping cams in our cars other than V8s.

tensioner is on passenger side of the motor facing the firewall... becareful when taking the nuts off, because they will shoot off if youre not careful. Its the piece shown in this picture...

Just remember when you push the tensioner back in... there is a little locking clip you can push on to do so... its there to lock the tension on the chain when installed. After you push the tensionor in you can flip the hook shown onto the pin to hold it in while returning the bolts upon installation.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/SR20DE%20Engine%20Part%20Out/Timing%20Chain%20Tensioner/HighportCams005.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/SR20DE%20Engine%20Part%20Out/Timing%20Chain%20Tensioner/HighportCams003.jpg

Cam swaps are pretty simple... but you must be careful to follow the tips to avoid disaster... I just helped a friend come back from that disaster last week... so avoid this!

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/Random/Exterior099.jpg

Most importantly... try to make sure you are at tdc, and make sure you zip tie the gears to chain... I prefer to zip tie in 3 places for factor of safety. You can do it alone, but I suggest getting another person as it makes it go by really easily...

before you take the cam off investigate to see if there is any cam lobe pushing on your valves... there should be minimal pressure on the cam when installing... The number 3 lobes will be pointing downward and just off the rocker arm... the number one lobes will be pointing away from each other and slightly upward. you can pay attention to the fsm as far as tightening sequence but just make sure that when you are tightening them your paying attention... make sure all the cam caps close equally. do one cam at a time... you can pour oil on the journals and lobes before installation of new cams... take it slow, and don't be in a hurry or you'll end up snapping it... or even better w/ many teeth off.

Like I said they are easy to do... but they are just as easy to fuck up! :)

When taking things apart put them aside in a way that you can reinstall them exactly the way they came out... make sure you put the cam caps in the same order that you take them out... (in this picture both sets are out at the same time... but again, only do one side at a time, finish to complete)

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/SR20DE%20Engine%20Part%20Out/98%20SR20%20Camshafts/PartOut117.jpg

^^^thanks. im gonna def need another person to work with this and some time. the only thing that im going to be so impatient/anxious about is just driving after the install :D

another thing i want to get clear of is the fpr. does it follow up w/ the stock fpr by splicing the fuel lines or do i need to remove the stock fpr? also i want to tune it w/ s-afc on the dyno. i heard/ seen good numbers show up when tuned correctly with a n/a setup.

hmmmmmmm, zip tie the chain to the gears......i have never heard of this but i like it!