Anyone here replace one? Any tips on doing it the best way?

take crank pulley off. then pull out the seal and pop a new one back in... be careful not to scratch metal surface behind the pulley when you're taking out and installing seal

be careful not to scratch metal surface behind the pulley when you're taking out

Yep. Removing the old seal was the hardest part for me.

a tip: if you can get your hands on an impact wrench, it makes removing that bolt off the pulley extremely easy, and putting it back on.

also make sure you don't loose that little chuck on the pulley.

Cool, so all in all, it is not that tough of a job?

No it is really a pretty easy job....
You will need a steering wheel puller or a harmonic balancer puller to pull the balancer off the crank. There are two threaded holes in the front of the crank (threaded with M6x1.0 threads). Most steering wheel pullers and harmonic balancer pullers will not come with this size bolt to thread in there.

A word of warning..... Do not thread the bolts to far into the balancer or you will wind up cracking the front cover (aluminum) and have to pull the engine to replace the front cover.

Another tip for ya.... The harmonic balancer puller that i had, had a threaded shaft in the middle that was the same threads as the bolt that came out of the middle of the pulley..... I actually found it easier though to go get a washer big enough that the outside diameter of the washer just barely fit on the end of the crank snout and then pressed against the washer.... May make sense to ya or it may not make sense to ya till you get in there. Took me about 2 hours to replace one.

Also see if you can rent an electric impact from your local rental place. Really sped things up for me.

Rick

I just used a regular pulley puller to get it off. It was fine on the pulley. What I did was:

loosen the crank bolt
put on the puller, using the crank bolt so I don't damage any treads with the puller
use it to pull the balancer out to the bolt
then loosen the pulley puller, loosen the crank bolt somemore and repeat til the whole balancer comes of.

No damage to threads, and no having to buy a new tool.

Originally posted by Rocketman
No it is really a pretty easy job....
You will need a steering wheel puller or a harmonic balancer puller to pull the balancer off the crank. There are two threaded holes in the front of the crank (threaded with M6x1.0 threads). Most steering wheel pullers and harmonic balancer pullers will not come with this size bolt to thread in there.

A word of warning..... Do not thread the bolts to far into the balancer or you will wind up cracking the front cover (aluminum) and have to pull the engine to replace the front cover.

Another tip for ya.... The harmonic balancer puller that i had, had a threaded shaft in the middle that was the same threads as the bolt that came out of the middle of the pulley..... I actually found it easier though to go get a washer big enough that the outside diameter of the washer just barely fit on the end of the crank snout and then pressed against the washer.... May make sense to ya or it may not make sense to ya till you get in there. Took me about 2 hours to replace one.

Also see if you can rent an electric impact from your local rental place. Really sped things up for me.

Rick


Cool, I got the power tools, so that will help. Another question though. Should I undo that motor mount to lower the motor down a bit? Or should there be enough room already?

Originally posted by kbslacker



Cool, I got the power tools, so that will help. Another question though. Should I undo that motor mount to lower the motor down a bit? Or should there be enough room already?

with power tools you will have more then plenty of room, obviously you will have the car jacked up on that side too.. the trick is to find out how to loosen the belts ;)

Originally posted by dontblameme
Removing the old seal was the hardest part for me.

OK, so exactly what kind of tools do you use to get the seal out nicely. Do you use a screwdriver and just stick it in and yank? I assume that is the wrong way of course. BTW, we are talking about the front seal at the crank, not some cheap deal on a sk...

Well, you can certainly use a big flat screwdriver, thats what I did. If you are careful, you won't scratch the seal housing.

You can also buy/rent seal pullers or slide hammers, both of which would help get it out.

Aaron

Looks like this needs attention today! I went out to startup my car, and it was low on oil, so low, it was noisy. So I shut it off, put in two quarts, started up again, and the same noise. I get out, look under the car, and here comes those two quarts I just put in. :D So off I go to get a start on it. I still have a good four hours of sunlight tonight, but I doubt I will get it finished. I need to replace a axle boot while i am in there as well....

Thanks to those who replied. With your help, I did the job with success. :cool: No more oil leak.

What size is the crank pulley nut...? 19.? or is it bigger

Originally posted by Black200sxSER
What size is the crank pulley nut...? 19.? or is it bigger


bigger i think, like a 22. I forgot already

Originally posted by Black200sxSER
What size is the crank pulley nut...? 19.? or is it bigger
I just checked and the impact socket that I used remove mine was 27mm

thanks dontblameme....

Just an FYI to this..if you are doing this, and you have an automatic:

there is really no way to lock the crank in place like a 5 spd...you will want to rent or buy an impact to remove the nut. This is only for an auto..although it makes it really cake if you have one period.

Originally posted by Black200sxSER
Just an FYI to this..if you are doing this, and you have an automatic:

there is really no way to lock the crank in place like a 5 spd...you will want to rent or buy an impact to remove the nut. This is only for an auto..although it makes it really cake if you have one period.


Actually, there is a way, its the way I had to do it. :) My Air compressor wont hold air, so I was stuck with plain old rachets. I had to take off the oil pan, and that secondary splash pan thing inside the oil pan. Then I wedged the end of a rubber mallet in between the crank and the block. Worked like a charm. :cool: But you have to remember, that bolt is torqued to 110lbs, so it will need some force.