well i got bored after dinner today so i whipped up a rear tower bar its pretty ghetto at the moment :p its just some 3/4 SS tubing with a 1/8 wall not that strong but i used it anyway its what i had on hand. so all i did was crush the ends in a vice and drilled the ends. a whole 45 min of work :p i took it for a test spin and i could hear that there was allot less noise coming from the back and turing i felt a little more response but wasn't sure i didn't get above 50kmh (30mph) since i just went around the block. im sure it will feel better when i make a proper mounting plate to use all three studs and weld the pipe to the plate.

im going to make a proper mounting plate with 3/16 SS plate. i couldn't find any laying around the house so i didn't do much else at the moment and i need a tig welder.

and im wondering if i should use a heavier pipe like a schedule 80 that's about 1/4" wall or 120 witch is closer to 3/8"
im not sure how heavy a pipe or tubing that they are typically made of ? since i have never really taken that close of a look at the pipe on a tower bar. so dose any one know ?


http://members.shaw.ca/nick18a/gheto/Gheto1.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/nick18a/gheto/gheto2.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/nick18a/gheto/gheto3.jpg

No one knows how thick there tower bar is ?

Well I dont answers to your questions, but nice job for a 45 minute 'bored' job man. Not bad.

Kyle

I don't know the thickness of a strut bar, but your's looks great. Make another one for the bolt on the rear of the strut tower and then with two of them you don't need to worry about the thickness

Id say that 1/8 " wall stuff is plenty stiff. Remember its going along the strongest part of the tube. Like the old elementry school trick of making a cylinder out of a sheet of paper and holding up an apple with it. As long as it isnt crimped or broken on the sides its really strong.

And i forget who it was, maybe jay stewart, that made a cheap stb like this once. Lots of people go buy what is sometimed called uni-strut, the c channel stuff that has holes in it used to support stuff, and cut it to length. put it over the bolt and tighten it down. But grab another tube and it will do fine. Hell if you go much thicker you will be out doing any aftermarket rstb

I had a friend who did the same as you except he used " L" channel he got from Lowes. Like you he tied the front most bolt with one piece and the 2 rear most bolts where tied with another piece. He swore to me that it did wanders for his NX.

Although yours looks clean and simple, his looked like ass but was affective.

Thanks for the idea. I may try to make one before this weekends autocross.

Tim

i make some cool things when i get bored, like the pen that can open a pop can or the paperclip that can poke things. But i would have to say yours is a bit better than mine. congrats on the project

Thanks :D
well i did an auto cross with it today and i have noooo clue if it was working lol
but i did well today first time auto crosing was in the top 5 i think have to wait and see the postings.

Next time take a run with it off, and then a run with it on. You should be able to feel a slight difference.

well, now your post has got me going. ill probably be tearing my trunk apart and scrounging my house for pieces to construct a rear sway bar sometime this weekend.

e-bay has a bunch of nissan model strut tower braces for sale cheap. I bought like 3 of them to see if i can mod one to fit the rear of my nx. if not, i'll be using the angle iron approach. I'll let you know if i have any info to add. Nice job on your bar though. I was thinking that you could add a bit of triangular support by attatching an additional bar from the rearward inside bolt on both sides to the existing bar. That would help.

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O / \ O
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forgive the crude illustration but that might give you the idea