What motor oil do you use, what engine do you put it in, and how often?

either use 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer.depends where u live and also on how much power u got *** those mgiht be too thin.u can also use a full synthetic.i use in my car normal 10w40 highmileage *** ive got alot of miles on there,and the brand is use is quakerstate.brand doesn mean anything ***,its all the same shit..

This should answer what the boosted SR20's are running ;)

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/45445-what-viscosity-oil-do-you-use-your-turbo-car-%5Bpoll%5D.html

I use Motul 300V 0W20 motor oil year round in my sr20VE. I change the oil every 5,000 to 6000 Kilometers.

Might want to do a bit of a search - there was a very interesting discussion a few months ago that got somebody with really serious engineering background on the discussion; he presented a fair amount of data for good (repeat good) synthetic 0w20 or 0w30 for a good engine. Miko runs a mix of (I think it was) 0w30 and 5w30 in his VEs. For summer I run 5w30 Mobil1 changing at 3-4,000m (that's miles, not meters, mega - - - :-) ) and 0w30 winter - I'm a few degrees south of Mega -- hell, snow ain't off the ground up there yet - :-). Phoenix area you could run MT90 in there - - but I'd do 5w30M1 in a good engine.
My one question for that town up north is how come when it's so bloody cold up there all the time you have the most gorgeous women I've ever seen?????

Royal Purple 10-30W, I use to use mOBIL 1 for a long time. also 10-30w

5w30 mobil 1 full synthetic on my jdm de

straight jdm ENEOS NIPPON OIL 0-50w . flows like a 5w30 weight. i used to run mobil 1 5w30 in my avenir . i noticed the eneos last alot longer and stays cleaner then the mobil 1 . at 8.99qt i think its worth every penny

royal purple 5w30 and OEM filter, the larger filter for my b14...

mobil 1 5w30 and i change it every 3500 miles with a motorcraft oil filter.

Mobil 1 10 w30, and oem P/N 15208-9E000 filter on both my G20 and my RR Turbo SR20, every 3k miles religiously.

Unless i beat the piss outt my RR DE+T for a few thousand miles , then i change it every 2,500 miles ......maybe a bit of overkill, but it's cheap insurance

..well, right now my DET has Rotella T 15_40 in it because I haven't been able to do anything but hand crank it for a year....but that's all getting dumped after it starts and idles for an hour....hopefully before monday...then it'll get some synthetic lovin....

new RINGS WONT SEAT using synthetic .....you gotta use dinosaur juice ......this is what I was told by a few pro builders...so that what I'm doin.......

I use 3 quarts castrol syntec 1 quart lucas synthetic oils stabilizer and a can of enine restorer . the car has 233000 miles and still whips ass.:biggthump

ENEOS NIPPON OIL 0-20W for us NA folk. Yes, the oil really impressed me.

In my Honda, Valvoline Synpower 5w20.
In the girls 1.8S, Valvoline Synpower 5w30.
Soon to be in the Boost Bear, Valvoline Synpower 10w40.

All factory oil filters used.

The notion that rings won't seat with synthetic oil is an old idea and has little or no merit today. Many, many years ago ring technology was not very sophisticated. Rings were made of one material (usually ductile iron, I believe) and it was very, very hard in design so that the rings would last some considerable amount of time. Because the ring material was so very hard, the engine manufacturers had a very coarse lapping of the cylinder walls so that the rings would seat relatively quickly. In this scenario, the engine manufacturers were hoping for a high friction coefficient in order to seat the rings and using synthetic oil would reduce that friction coefficient and make ring seating problematic.
However, today ring’s technology is very sophisticated and rings are laminated with a soft outer edge and a very hard inner material. This means that the rings seat very quickly. In fact, the engine manufacturers use a very fine cylinder wall finish in a new engine today and your rings are already seated when you purchase your new car.
Accordingly, there is no need to use “dinosaur oil” to seat rings in any modern engine. It was this ring seating problem that caused the manufacturers in an earlier day to recommend a “break-in” period, sometimes as much as 5,000 miles. Today, no break-in period is required.

royal purple 5w30 and OEM filter, the larger filter for my b14...

Same Here. Royal Purple FTW!

The notion that rings won't seat with synthetic oil is an old idea and has little or no merit today. Many, many years ago ring technology was not very sophisticated. Rings were made of one material (usually ductile iron, I believe) and it was very, very hard in design so that the rings would last some considerable amount of time. Because the ring material was so very hard, the engine manufacturers had a very coarse lapping of the cylinder walls so that the rings would seat relatively quickly. In this scenario, the engine manufacturers were hoping for a high friction coefficient in order to seat the rings and using synthetic oil would reduce that friction coefficient and make ring seating problematic.
However, today ring’s technology is very sophisticated and rings are laminated with a soft outer edge and a very hard inner material. This means that the rings seat very quickly. In fact, the engine manufacturers use a very fine cylinder wall finish in a new engine today and your rings are already seated when you purchase your new car.
Accordingly, there is no need to use “dinosaur oil” to seat rings in any modern engine. It was this ring seating problem that caused the manufacturers in an earlier day to recommend a “break-in” period, sometimes as much as 5,000 miles. Today, no break-in period is required.

:eek2: Great read, my man. I learned something new! ;)

I use Castrol GTX 5w30 and a Nissan OEM.

-G

Mobil 1 5w30, OEM filter......Costco has the 6-packs cheap!