Today I picked up the power window accessories from a 4dr B13. I did the passanger side, just to be sure I dont get stuck with a broken window if I dont get it working.

The motor, works good. If I just run power from the battery, and ground the motor, it goes up and down perfectly. But I cannot figure out how to wire the switch.

I took just the passanger switch since it fits almost perfectly in the door panel. There are 6 wires coming out of the switch. 2 that are the same color as the window motor wires, 1 green, 1 black, and 2 white with red lines, one of which is thicker than the other.

Can I just hook up that switch seperately, or does it NEED to be connected to the master switch on the driver side?

If any of you know, please share with me, if not, I will check out a local stereo shop and have them wire up another switch.

Thanks

Naw dude, don't pay anyone I can talk you through it easy. You don't have to hook that up to the master switch, but only if you don't want driver's side control of the passenger's side window. If that's the case, then just wire nut those extra leads and you'll be good to go. Do you have the master switch? If not then get one for a two door B14, unless the 4 door master switch is split into two halves, one for front doors and one for rears. If you don't use half of the master switch I'll buy it from you. If you tapped right off the battery for power then get an inexpensive water resistant inline fuse holder and put it fairly close to the battery. I can mail you one for free if you'd like. (I only have like 20 of them) If you don't know what the locked motor amperage and running amperage draw of the motor is just keep putting larger fuses in until they don't blow when you roll the window all the way up or down and the motor stops. Chances are you'll need at least a 10 but more likely a 15 amp fuse for each window motor, and if you do fuse them individually then you'll want to put a single fuse to protect them both near the battery (OEM uses a single fuse usually to protect all the power windows) Also use at least 14 gauge wire to run these motors, you don't want any electrical problems later on, and amperage draw changes with temperature and you want a nice cushion there so that you don't have to worry about things getting too hot. If you want, I'll pm you my number and you can call me when you're working on it and I'll talk you through anything. I've done this several times on other cars. While you've got the doors open why not put power locks in as well? Let me know if you want help, I'd me more than happy to help you out.

There is a company called GAMA Inc. out of Illinois and they make a five wire, polarity reversing switch with illuminated arrows on them. These switches would be prefect for aftermarket or retrofit power windows and locks in any automobile. I'm waiting to find out about the pricing on them. The model # is S-019. They also have a similar switch that would work as well, but isn't quite as asthetically pleasing, and that is the model # R13-129. Their website is www.gamainc.com Click on the "Automotive Electrical Accessories" section, or click on "Switches" and then "Rocker" to view other types. Here's the direct link for the Automotive section. www.gamainc.com/automotive.html and for the all the rocker switches www.gamainc.com/rocker.html I'm pretty sure you can get the S-019 in black and I know you can get the R13-129 in black. For some reason when you click on the S-019 to see the specs it takes you to a different switch, I had this happen with other switches as well. This may not seem like usefull information to most of you, but I spent months looking for switches like the S-019 that could be purchased other than from companies who wanted to charge outrageously for them, and anyone who has done a decent amount of power window and lock conversions can sympathize with me on that. These were typically companies that produce the overpriced aftermarket window lift and power lock systems.

YOU'RE GONNA WEIGH A TON!!!!
heh heh heh!!!!!

Bro, I cant wait to ride in your Pimped out Classic!!!
You still need a sunroof though!!!

We each got our own style!!

First off, Toolapcfan, thanks for all the info. I went ahead and used the 200sx switches, but thanks for taking the time to reply and help me out.


Originally posted by SmoothDaddyFig
YOU'RE GONNA WEIGH A TON!!!!


I dont think the motor is THAT much heavier over the regulator. I will see if I can weigh them when I change the driver side one. And yes, I do need a sunroof. :D

Just an update. I have the passanger side wired up, and working great. I am using a 200sx master switch on the driver side, so far no switch for the passanger side yet, I control the windows :)

Getting the 200sx switchs and plate on the driver side door panel took a lot of cutting. I will take some pictures tomorrow, and write any notes for those of you who might attempt this.

No problem Serban. I knew you had switches, but I wanted to get that GAMA info on here in case someone else was thinking of doing this and could use that info. I spent a lot of time finding that company, so I'm eager to let people know about them and what they have. Definately post some pics when you're done.

Well that dude e-mailed me back and they apparently don't carry the illuminated version of the S-019 switch, which is gay as hell, but the non illuminated one is only $5.50 if you order between like 10 and 25 of them. So If you didn't mind non-illuminated switches and didn't mind buying 10 of them, or went in on it with other people you'd be getting a hell of a deal. I'm still working on getting an account set up with SPAL and they have central door locks, aftermarket power windows, illuminated switches, the whole shebang. I'll let ya'll know what that sheite costs when I know.