I will be dropping a newish jdm motor into the NX (soon).

whilst i am in there, i figured i'd replace the motor mounts with better ones. do i go with inserts or complete mounts? am i crazy to consider solid mounts or should i just stick with poly for a daily driver car?

thankyou thankyou

jim,

see john's post in the general section. i'll talk to you soon: i've decided i want to replace my mounts as well.

-C-

the ES mounts are a good setup but the rear one is a BITCH to install, and i have recently read that making your own rear mount is better. But they are still good, and cheap

How do you change the rear one? I've been trying to figure it out, but can't. The crossmember is in the way of the second mount bolt so I can't take it off. Is there an easier way?

you have to remove the whole cross member, that is the only way. PM me if anyone has any more Q's

I did not have any trouble with the rear one. The trick is to make sure you get the lube that ES sells. That works well. I did all 4 of my ES mounts in about 2 hours.

is it true i can just use our factory scissor jack to support the engine while changing the mount out (passenger mount)?

-im going to be replacing my stock mounts with the ES ones and want to know the basic information on going about doing it. What should i use to support the engine while switching out each mount?

appreciate any info given.

damn... my es mounts just came today! i was hoping for an easy installation... any more tips people????

I'll be swapping the new jdm motor into the nx soon so i'll have info then.

ok, so far ive installed the passenger one and the front radiator dogbone one.

im waiting for the shifter bushing before i do the rear one and then ill do the tranny (drivers side one) as well.

THIS IS WHAT I KNOW...if your doing the passenger one, GOOD LUCK TO YA...it is a bitch and almost impossible to do without the aid of a hydrolic press. even with it, it is still tricky and dangerous to get the big round piece in there. USE CAUTION, that thing likes to pop/slide around if not perfectly centered while pushing it in. (not to mention while taking the old one out with the metal ring it has tremendous friction with metal grinding perfectly against metal, mine was slowly poping out and making gunshot noise while doing so....its a stubborn mount :D )

--anyways the front dogbone is sooo dam easy, no problem there. but i have a question that i want to clarify for safety reasons before i go ahead and continue.......this may sound stupid to people who already know but is it safe to remove the whole crossmember without having something supporting the engine besides the other 2 mounts (passenger and driver side mounts)

will the engine fall back or forward without it while im under there??? this means that the front and rear mount are not connected. or do i have nothing to worry about :confused:

Ok guys,
I cant pull an amazing piece of advise from a bottomless pool of wisdom like some of the se-r gods, but i will say this.

working on our cars is a lot of fun, as it should be. but there is a very important rule you should live by when doing any mechanical work.
ask yourself if what you are about to do is safe. stop and think if your intended actions will cause you harm (and whether you are willing to sustain that kind of harm today).
If you think it is unsafe, either dont do it or ask for help. I knew a kid (graduated highschool with him in 99) who was working under a car with just a jack and when the jack fell , the car fell on him and it killed him. I was at the cemetary the other day. He was just 21.
I would always recomend using the right tool for the job for safety's sake. Borrow a motor hoist to secure the motor or wait till you go to a geek out, but dont rick catching an sr20 with your face. I know i'd help if you asked.
Just figured i'd throw that out there.

Here are some things to make the mount swap
easier...

Use a jack to support the engine and tranny,
besides it being safer, you can use the jack
to raise/lower the engine or crossmember a little to get the firewall mount aligned better and bolted back on.

Do the center bolt first, then the crossmember
bolts, its easier that way.

Use a piece of wood between the jack head
and engine/tranny this spreads the load
a little better so you don't poke a hole
in the tranny.

Fire wall mount will go in easier with
*plenty* of lube, I use dishwashing soap.

Original passenger side mount can be cut out with
a knife and the steel ring cut with a hacksaw
You can press the ES mount in with a big vise
and some grease.

Sometimes it can be hard to line this mount back
up. You can clamp a part of the mount bracket and engine with vise-grips to help center it, a dental mirror is good too for eyeballing if its lined up.

Watch those mount bolts, they can get crossthreaded, I use anti-sieze and only screw
them in when there is little resistance.

Good luck! :cool: