As the subject says please?????

It should be an accessory source when the car is switched on. For example the accessory power for your radio. You can actually remove the panel under your dash and use a test light to probe for a positive signal when the car is on. When the car is switched off the light should go out. If u want I can write u back with the actual color code of the wire u should tap into.

While you have things out, I would install a relay and use the keyed positive to operate it, then you can use that relay to power all kinds of shit later on and not have to worry about taxing the ignition circuit. Not that your gauges will do that, but it's a good idea and leaves you plenty of room to expand. Something to consider I guess.

I use one of the empty slots in my fuse box. Basically, I just use a spade connecter and shove it in there, from there, I have other wires attached to it. Thats how I have my power windows, Autometer gauges, and cruisde control hooked up. Works good, and I havent had any problems.

How did you protect all that though Serban? Your windows probably draw 15 amps each easily and without a fuse you're asking for trouble. Not to mention that the wire supplying that empty slot in your fuse block could be a smaller gauge because it might have only been intended to carry 10 amps.

I have one on my 91 Nissan 240SX what my car club and I did was, attach it to the accessory wire on the radio, it sounds weird to do that I know. But this way when you shut the car off it goes off, the only thing is that when you turn the car to acc, then it actually comes on but you get no reading. I also have a volatage meter on my car, the meters are ina dual pod that autometer makes, Hope this helps.

I might set up a small fuse block for them in the future, as for now I will leave it like that. If its a big hazard, then I might have to do something sooner. Oh well.

Serban, I would at least make a fuse holder if you don't have one. Simply cut the wire you've got running from your spade terminal in the fuse block to your accessories in half. Put a fully insulated .250 or .205 female quick disconnect on each end and plug each half of a 20 or 30 amp fuse into the them and viola, it'll get you by. The smaller the fuse the better. If it blows put in a bigger one. I've got tons of inline fuse holders but I was too lazy to install one when I put in my air horn so this is what I did and it's been that way for a year now and has been fine. And it's no more ghetto than some of the cheap ass inline fuse holders that are out there, as many of them are basically the same thing with a flimsy plastic housing that is split in half and falls apart.