I go to start it up about 2 hours later and now it won't rev past 2600-3,000 rpms. It is also idoling wired. It keeps bouncing up and down from 800-900 rpms.

I went and took out my sub and amp today. So naturaly, I un hooked the negative battery terminal. I also messed with my MSD 8969 box that controls the big cams to kick on. Thats it.

Check the air hoses to intake and everything looked good, except a tube from the sr20de throttle body that pointed straight down. I don't think there was anything attatched to it in the first place but I can't find a tube that connects to it anyways.

Any help please!!! I have to be at work in 9 hours.

Same thing happened to me one day when I fucked around and tried to put my batterey in the trunk. Since that failed to go as planned, I ended up putting the battery back up front. Re-connected everything,started it up and it idled "up+down"and ran like a bag of shit. I went over everything....found that the main ground from the battery to the block was loose.

Tightened it up...everything back to normal. Wierd grounding problem.

Same thing happened to me one day when I fu*ked around and tried to put my batterey in the trunk. Since that failed to go as planned, I ended up putting the battery back up front. Re-connected everything,started it up and it idled "up+down"and ran like a bag of sh*t. I went over everything....found that the main ground from the battery to the block was loose.

Tightened it up...everything back to normal. Wierd grounding problem.
Let me check that right now. Be back in 10 minutes if that isn't the case.

recheck the grounds..maf connections/any looseness in the intake tubing?

Yeah my friend had the same problem its was the maf ground

Sounds like it could be a maf issue.

the ecu hasn't dropped into safe mode, has it...?

It all you harness connections are sound, that would be the next thing to check...

OK, checked the main ground connections, its good.
I did do 1 other thing, I was hooking up a simple on off switch to turn on the MSD box (so it wasn't constatly on) and the thing didn't work right. The fuse for it blew. So, I hooked up the switch without the fuse and turned it on. Teh switch still didn't work, then all wires got really hot and the wire hooked up to the positive battery terminal started smoking. Oh no, I think I fried something!!!
I'm taking it up to AdvanceAuto and see what codes it throws more here in a few.

Sounds like a MAF problem to me.

except a tube from the sr20de throttle body that pointed straight down. I don't think there was anything attatched to it in the first place but I can't find a tube that connects to it anyways.

Any help please!!! I have to be at work in 9 hours.

the de t/b has 2 large and 1 small vac lines. none are used for the VE but must be capped off to prevent vacuum leaks.
and, instead of wiring a switch for your 8969, why not just use a switched power source at the fuse panel?

the de t/b has 2 large and 1 small vac lines. none are used for the VE but must be capped off to prevent vacuum leaks.
and, instead of wiring a switch for your 8969, why not just use a switched power source at the fuse panel?
I know, I know, that would of been the smart thing to do from the start.
I will look into which power I should use once the car runs good again.

Well, switched out the 95 G20 ECU I was using for the stock one, still does the same thing.
I went up to Advance and they gave me these codes:

P0100- Mass Air Sensor
P0115- Engine collant temp sensor
P0505- idle control??
P0110- idle air sensor
P0135- o2 sensor (back one not hooked up)
P1336- misfire/ignishion system malfuction???

I'm gonna source out a VE MAF now. Man this sucks. Guess I have to drive the bone stock 95' 240sx se for now.

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/201066-swapped-interior-engine-bay-harness-wont-rev-past-3000-a.html

Maybe your ecu's battery is dead? Or poped out

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/201066-swapped-interior-engine-bay-harness-wont-rev-past-3000-a.html

Maybe your ecu's battery is dead? Or poped out
I was running a g20 ECU when the car crapped out. I swicthed to my stock 95' ECu and same thing happens.
Good thread you posted. I am going to unhook the TPS, MAF and o2 sensors 1 by one and see what happens.

Switched out MAFs today and still does the same crap.
Swicthed out ECU last week, same thing.
When I unplug the MAF plug in, the car idols the same, no chages at all.

Today I noticed that my S-AFC was not reading my throttle response. When I unpluged the TPS when the car was some what idoling, the car died. Is this normal??? Are these 2 codes TPS related???:

P0505- idle control
P0110- idle air sensor

MAF...period

maf wiring is likely the culprit. backprobe maf and ecu and see if you have continuity to the proper pin on the ecu for the proper pin on the maf. likely the crap S-AFC wiring is totaly intrupting the maf signal

anytime you go into safe mode (wont rev past 3000) its a MAF issue period. on a b13 there isnt much else that will kick it into limp mode other than the MAF. it may be wiring to the maf or ecu, but the ECU isnt seeing maf signal for whatever reason.

the unplugging the maf and nothing changes is a smack in the face saying thats the first problem, if your maf was working it would kill the car if you unplugged it

yes unplugging the tps when in limp mode will stop the car. and this just showed you the tps is working fine and the ecu is seeing its voltage correctly. if your car was running perfectly, unplugging the tps should make the idle drop a bit but the car should recover...more than likely but not always.

investigate that maf wiring

MAF...period

maf wiring is likely the culprit. backprobe maf and ecu and see if you have continuity to the proper pin on the ecu for the proper pin on the maf. likely the crap S-AFC wiring is totaly intrupting the maf signal

anytime you go into safe mode (wont rev past 3000) its a MAF issue period. on a b13 there isnt much else that will kick it into limp mode other than the MAF. it may be wiring to the maf or ecu, but the ECU isnt seeing maf signal for whatever reason.

the unplugging the maf and nothing changes is a smack in the face saying thats the first problem, if your maf was working it would kill the car if you unplugged it

yes unplugging the tps when in limp mode will stop the car. and this just showed you the tps is working fine and the ecu is seeing its voltage correctly. if your car was running perfectly, unplugging the tps should make the idle drop a bit but the car should recover...more than likely but not always.

investigate that maf wiring
Check the car out today. First thing I did was check all the fuses (should of done this in the first place). I found that an egine control #10 fuse was blown. This fuse was located in the dash.
Once replaced the fuse, I start the car and it doesn't want to crank all the way over. The starter keeps going and going be won't start up fully.
I check the my MAF wiring on the forum and rewired and regrounded it so everything to do with the MAF and MAF wiring is good.
What now???
Beloew is 4 harnesses that are not hooked up on my car. I remember reading there are only supose to be 3 unpluged harnesses on a b14. I kbnow this can't be the problem becuae the engine has 10k miles on it with these unpluged.

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6284/dsc01335iz8.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01335iz8.jpg)http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/14/dsc01334jc3.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01334jc3.jpg)http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5607/dsc01333je3.th.jpg (http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01333je3.jpg)

you checked the wiring....as in did you check it all the way back to the ecu? take a multimeter, get some wire and wrap it around the leads, then wrap the other end of the wire around say a thin nail or a needle. backprobe the maf and the ecu plug at the proper pins, you will have to read the fsm wiring diagram. but id make 100% sure you have continuity between them. if you have a nice multimeter that beeps when you get continuity do that, and move the wires around a bit while you back probe see if its got a break anywhere.

your pic links dont work so cant tell what is where there.

you may also have a fried ecu....it happens.... pull ecu, open it up front and back and look for any obvious scorching. smell it, if you get that obvious burning electronics smell....you will know it. its worth looking at at this point

you checked the wiring....as in did you check it all the way back to the ecu? take a multimeter, get some wire and wrap it around the leads, then wrap the other end of the wire around say a thin nail or a needle. backprobe the maf and the ecu plug at the proper pins, you will have to read the fsm wiring diagram. but id make 100% sure you have continuity between them. if you have a nice multimeter that beeps when you get continuity do that, and move the wires around a bit while you back probe see if its got a break anywhere.

your pic links dont work so cant tell what is where there.

you may also have a fried ecu....it happens.... pull ecu, open it up front and back and look for any obvious scorching. smell it, if you get that obvious burning electronics smell....you will know it. its worth looking at at this point
I haven't used a multi meter before. Maybe you can help me more. PMed

Well, I back to square 1 again. Car started up and is running like crap again. Bouncing idol detween 600-900 RPMs and won't rev past 2500-2700.
I check the the wiring on the MAF with a multi meter. Ran 1 end of meter into both ECU spots for MAF and 1 end of meter into both wires that weren't the ground on the MAF. Got no continuity.
Where do I go from here??? Check the MAF wires from the ECU to the MAF by looking at every part of it?? Hell maybe I should just get a whole new ECU harness. I'm pretty pissed about the car right now even though its my of fault.