Are the heads the same? I have been told everything is the same except the cams is this true?

Thanks
James

Originally posted by ktrends
Are the heads the same? I have been told everything is the same except the cams is this true?

Thanks
James

You've heard right. They should be pretty much the same.

Ben

Depends on which DET Head....


53J - Same as the SE-R
78E - Larger Exhaust Valves
79E - Larger Exhaust Valves
52F - Larger Exhaust Valves

And the Big one!

54C - Dual Valve Spring, Mechanical Head, Larger EX Valve, Better Turbo Cams, Require larger head bolts, the only way to go. Thou it is a Son of a Bitch to Re-Shim.

Where are these numbers?

The reason for the question is, I was thinking about having my stock head ported. Install some cams etc, then just swap it over.

Thanks again
James

Your head code is listed here, between the U.S. passenger side engine mount and the head.

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/headcodehere.jpg

53J Head Code

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/11040-53J.jpg

94Y Head Code

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/11040-94y.jpg

54C Head Code

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/11040-54C.jpg

53J, 78E, 79E Rocker arm in head

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/13257-53j-inhead.jpg

54C Rocker arm in head

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/13257-54c-inhead.jpg

Side by side comparison of 53J v 54C.

http://www.sr20development.com/techimage/13257-53jvs54c.jpg

If you have not noticed the differences, the 54C (on the right) has a notch in it for the lash kill spring.


Chris @ SR20

If you are refering to your stock head as your SE-R head and your current head as a Bluebird DET head, then the only disadvantage is that you would loose 1mm on your exhaust valves and would no longer have sodium filled exhaust valves.


Hope this make sense.

So basicly if I go with big aftermarket valve anyway there would be no loss?

BTW: You are entirely WAY to helpful! Even posting pictures! You are the man.

Bigger isn't always better, well atleast to a point. Power is all about the ability to flow air. The more air you flow, the more power potential there is.

The Dilema that you run into is how do you want your power? Nissan sytle with lots of Torque and less HP or Honda style with more HP and less torque? You would need to base this on what is the purpose of the power ??? Streetability meaning Daily Driveability, Road Racing, Drag racing Etc... Each type of racing requires a different type of power and power band. This is also greatly applicable to Head Work when it come to porting, polishing, Honing, Valves, Springs, Cams, Etc...

I am not trying to scare you away from this project with all of the above info. I hope to give you a broader look at what the results of your work would be before you spend the $$$ on it.

Answer: Well... There are many new theroy's floating around right now. I would stick with what has been proven in the past. The stock OEM Intake and OEM DET Exhaust valves are a good way to go for the average Jon Doe. Going to bigger aftermarket valves would require more $$$, Time, and grinding of valve seals. IIRC, Ferra offers a few valves for the SR head. Worth looking into? Sure. Can't have too much info now can we ???

Cheers!

Chris @ SR20

More thoughts....

the SE-R uses a 6mm exhasut valve.

Now try and follow the rest of this...

The VVLs use a smaller valve the the SE-R. It is still uses a 6mm valve stem, however, it has a smaller head. The SR16VEN1 uses a smaller head still.

Going to even newer tech, the V20 and Xtrail SR20VEs use a 5.5mm valve with a smaller head. Now we are starting to get to Honda size valving.

My point, well - don't have one yet, but I'm sure that you will figure out something from all of this...

Even thou the the the newer valves are smaller, they add more lift.

What does this mean?

I believe more power. Why? Compare stock HP... The SE-R, to the VE to the VEN1 and the newer 20V. The further down the line, the new the tech, the smaller the valve head, the more lift.


Cheers!

Chris @ SR20

Hrmmmmm. Somthing to think about!

I was thinking about having some port work done to the exhaust side, while keeping the intake side pretty mild. This has shown huge gains with some of my past projects.

Your valve info is really somthing to think about though. Smaller size with more lift = more power than larger valve with less lift??

So what do you think about sticking with the smaller DE valves, and going with a aftermarket cam with more lift and less duration?

Any ideas of what cams would work good with this kind of setup?

Haven't been ignoring you... been doing some more thinking...

no problem, I found somthing the other day that looked truly awesome. The big nasty F-max turbo manifold. Any ideas on if it is even offered and what kind of price?

which one - they offer 3.

The one I saw moved the turbo near the factory battery location and used a tial w/g setup. I will post a pic later when I get home.

That would be the Stage 4 kit I believe - The one that you have seen is probally Aarons or Zaks. They use a HKS GT 3037 turbo. Spolls 10 psi ** 4,000 RPM.

Anyone know what size the 54C valves are?