Ok well I'm about to start the process of putting my rocker arms in.

My first question is: Is it possible to use something to flush the motor out with? I have the VC off and cams out, and am planning on doing an oil change after the installation is complete. So I wanted to know if I could use some sort of solution to fill up the motor with to possibly aide in flushing any particles out. I was told Kerosene by someone at work.

Second: What kind of compression numbers should I be getting? I'm going to run a compression test after I get everything installed.

Thanks

I wouldn't worry about a flush. If you want to, pour cheap motor oil in the head, and let it run our of the oil pan drail. Pour about 3 or 4 qts. Compression should be 178psi with the car at normal temp.

agree, no need (and bad idea) to flush the engine. The motor oil trick is a great idea!!! Make sure you have greased all the cams, etc... with cam lube before install. Compression may come up quite a bit lower. I have read in Sport Compact 145psi across all 4 is not uncommon on high mileage cars. I'll have to find my FSM and see what it says.

Cossie

149psi is the lowest acceptable number for an SR20. My 140k mile '91 SE-R is still in the 170s. 178psi is what your car should see. You might see a little higher or lower because of the S3s, but I saw 180psi in my car.

Matt, I hope you find those 2 discs, you better not turn the car on if you dont find them.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Call Me Stupid, But Why is it a bad Idea to flush out the engine?

I planned on ripping my avenir apart and swain tech the pistons and cryo and shotpeening everything.

oh...and extrude hone as much as I can afford....:D

port and polish...??balancing???

and your general engine rebuild.

- compression numbers depend on the amount of cranks
- oil flushing solvents eat up seals

Mndgy---- stop wasting time pulling the motor apart. Coating the pistons is a waste of time and money porting and polishing is also a waste of a lot of money and time. I would not balance the motor either. SR20DET motors are tuff motors and come very well balanced from the factory. If you put the right turbo on the car like say a GTBB37 from Incon the car will run 11.5-11.8 with 555cc inj, 300zx MAF 90-96, JWT comp set for 4 bar, also some S4 cams and a GTIR ex manifold. Thats all you need. I have done a few of these setups and have been seeing 335-355 hp and 345-365 LB foot torque to the wheels at 15-16 psi of boost with what I mentioned above. If you want anymore hp than that for the street then raise the boost a little more to say 20 psi and we have seen as much as 385-405 at this boost level. So just put your money to the right things and stop over enginering the motor.

Andreas Miko.

New/used DET is always a better idea then a full rebuild. I crunched the numbers just to replace my hydraulic lashers and a new import JDM makes a lot more sense. You'll have to do a little trany case filling if your getting into power. I'm working on a few tricks right now.

Cossie

What aboot Extrude honing the manifolds Andreas?

I guess I did want to over engineer the motor.....:D