http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3205.JPG
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3204.JPG
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3212.JPG

As you can see, I've got the A/C back on, Alternator, starter is hooked up. Just a few connectors, swap the TB and I'll be on my way!

And yes, it really has been 130 days. I haven't had a LOT of time to work on it, and I have no local reliable friends, so this has all been done on my own, w/ the exception of Chris (TurboTank) who came to help w/ the physical swapping of the motor (THANKS!).


Couple questions: There is one plug associated w/ the starter harness that I am unsure of, it's one of the small clip style ones...

Second, is the knock sensor plug on the starter portion of the harness?

Third, there is a wire coming off of the alternator harness, looks like a ground, where does it go (not the main terminal connector, smaller one).

Lastly, what are these plugs? There are actually five plugs, two like the grey one. The brown I know goes to the AAC, the light blue to one of the water temp sensors. What about the grey/red?
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3203.JPG

Thanks for any input! Couldn't have done any of it without the forum, just wanting to get it on the road!

Knock sensor plug comes off the injector sub harness.

And the ground for the alternator harness, i don't know which side of the harness you are talking about, but there's a ground that bolts to the body, and there's also a ground that bolts to the alternator "case".

Knock sensor plug comes off the injector sub harness.

Darn, that's what I was afraid of. I must have to split the loom or something, I see NO way that could reach down there. I could barely get it to reach the vicinity of the knock sensor, but the plug faces downward.

And the ground for the alternator harness, i don't know which side of the harness you are talking about, but there's a ground that bolts to the body, and there's also a ground that bolts to the alternator "case".

It's a very short wire, and a very small ground, so it must be the one that bolts to the case. I didn't see anything to bolt it down to though, must've dropped the bolt/nut/whatever.

The ground on the alternator harness mounts to the chassis of the alternator. IF the 8mm bolt is broken off, you can try pulling out one of the long bolts that holds the alternator together and bolting it down with that.

The ground on the alternator harness mounts to the chassis of the alternator. IF the 8mm bolt is broken off, you can try pulling out one of the long bolts that holds the alternator together and bolting it down with that.

X2, i had to do this once.

Before i put my VE in i cut the casing off of the entire wire harness, split it up and extended what i needed and arranged it for the new locations then re taped everything solid. The only things i had to extend were for the idle air controller, both sensor plugs needed extended and i had to remove one sensor plug from its mounting point on the transmission to be able to reach the plug for the harness. As for the alternator, the small little eye hole ground wire grounds in one of the bolts that go into the chassis and are located under the coolant reservoir. Instead of loosening one of the bolts that holds the alternator in you could also just extend the wire and run it to any chassis bolt you please.


I actually just started working on my VE swap last thursday, today I almost finished up. Getting the transmission back on was the biggest pain in the ass ever. For some reason I think the dowel pins in the engine block are larger than the DE's because i had to pretty much force the damn transmission on by tightening the bolts slowly in a star pattern to work its way on.


What are you going to use for VVL timing? Did you pick up the MSD 8969 rpm window switch? Its easy as pie to wire in. Also what ecu are you going to be running? Did you modify your distributor yet? Sorry for all the questions, im just now going through it all so im interested to see what route you're taking.


Its a shame you live so far away man, ive been solo-ing the VE swap also. I even pulled out my DE single man and put in the VE single man, talk about a pita :(.

I actually just started working on my VE swap last thursday, today I almost finished up. Getting the transmission back on was the biggest pain in the ass ever. For some reason I think the dowel pins in the engine block are larger than the DE's because i had to pretty much force the damn transmission on by tightening the bolts slowly in a star pattern to work its way on.


I had the same problem... funny though no one else ever mentioned this...

Before i put my VE in i cut the casing off of the entire wire harness, split it up and extended what i needed and arranged it for the new locations then re taped everything solid. The only things i had to extend were for the idle air controller, both sensor plugs needed extended and i had to remove one sensor plug from its mounting point on the transmission to be able to reach the plug for the harness. As for the alternator, the small little eye hole ground wire grounds in one of the bolts that go into the chassis and are located under the coolant reservoir. Instead of loosening one of the bolts that holds the alternator in you could also just extend the wire and run it to any chassis bolt you please.

Would've been smart to do, had I known what to lengthen. I'm not sure how different the P10's are from B14's (or B13's), but I know there are some possible differences. For one, the Cruise vacuum/cable module interferes w/ the TPS, I had to remove it and will have to see if I can relocate.

I still don't know what that red c-clip plug is from my pic. Or the c-clip plug on the "starter harness."


I actually just started working on my VE swap last thursday, today I almost finished up. Getting the transmission back on was the biggest pain in the ass ever. For some reason I think the dowel pins in the engine block are larger than the DE's because i had to pretty much force the damn transmission on by tightening the bolts slowly in a star pattern to work its way on.

I don't remember a problem with this at all. Slid right on.

What are you going to use for VVL timing? Did you pick up the MSD 8969 rpm window switch? Its easy as pie to wire in. Also what ecu are you going to be running? Did you modify your distributor yet? Sorry for all the questions, im just now going through it all so im interested to see what route you're taking.

I have the 8969, and I'm a total wiring noob. I'm not sure at all what to do :) People keep saying "remember, it activates on ground" or something like that and I think "Ok...???" :confused:

Its a shame you live so far away man, ive been solo-ing the VE swap also. I even pulled out my DE single man and put in the VE single man, talk about a pita :(.

That's rough, I feel your pain!

Ok, im actually pretty good with electrical stuff so ill do my best of explaining the MSD. What they mean by the grounds activate it, is there are 2 solenoid plugs, both which have 2 wires. Both of which have 1 wire that is the same color, this is the ground wire on both. The other wire is useless to you since you are bypassing the original purpose of that wire. So with the msd what you do is this:

Yellow wire from msd, splice it in with both of the solenoid grounds. This will be the wire from the msd that will say "Wonder powers ACTIVATE!!!" Pretty straight forward, just strip the ends of all the wires, twist them together, use a butt splice, w/e you feel. Just twisting them and electrical taping them will suffice.

Black wire from msd, ground wire. Pretty basic depending on where you plan on mounting your msd box. Im just keeping mine under the hood for ease of install. I ran my ground right into the neg terminal of the battery. I assume there is nothing better for a black wire than to connect to the biggest black wire in the car lol. If im wrong, someone please correct me. All you really have to do is ground it to the chassis, motor, w/e. As long as its grounded.

White wire from the msd, this wire connects to the wire in your ignitor chip. This is what the msd uses to read the rpms of the motor i believe. On a b13 you have to splice this wire in with the existing wire to the ignitor chip that is both green and yellow colored. The existing connection must remain so do your best to splice both sides of where you cut it with the msd to maintain a solid connection. Im unsure if your wiring harness uses the same color for the ignitor chip hell i dont even know if your car uses an ignitor chip, if it is obd1 i assume it does. If not there is a wire in the distributor you can wire this to one of the more knowledgeable VE guys can help you with that.

Red wire from the msd, this is your power signal. Wire this to anything that receives a constant power signal once your ignition is turned. You could also wire it to an always on power connection and then just wire a switch to it. Either or will suffice, as long as it receives constant power once activated.

Grey= useless.


This is all based from what I found searching the forum for VE into b13. Ill know if i did it right today when i try to start her up :).



Civicdragon, did everything work fine for you after you had to do this? As tight as the fit the tranny felt like i fear that i wont be able to get it off so im really praying everything is fine.

i dunno i hope so lol

Before i put my VE in i cut the casing off of the entire wire harness, split it up and extended what i needed and arranged it for the new locations then re taped everything solid. The only things i had to extend were for the idle air controller, both sensor plugs needed extended and i had to remove one sensor plug from its mounting point on the transmission to be able to reach the plug for the harness.

As for the harness.. I only ended up with two connectors not in use. The EGR temp sensor plug(which I put a resistor into, to see if I could fool the ECU)..and then there is a connector (I think it's the red one in El Gabito picture..) I don't know what the device is that it goes to? it's got a a 5/8" or so size vacuum line going in one side, and out the other..and is located between the plenum and the head on the stock OBD II cars.

I hooked up the solenoid valve for the carbon canister. I used this diagram:

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/20454...r-removal.html

As for splitting up the harness and retaping.. did it look kind of like this? :)


http://gallery.mylangka.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=22178&g2_serialNumber=1
http://gallery.mylangka.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=22182&g2_serialNumber=1


As for the alternator, the small little eye hole ground wire grounds in one of the bolts that go into the chassis and are located under the coolant reservoir. Instead of loosening one of the bolts that holds the alternator in you could also just extend the wire and run it to any chassis bolt you please.

I noticed a few grounds on mine. There was the very small one that bolts to the alternater chassis, and then there were two others that were larger in size.. I attached them to the body of the car next to where the pass side motor mount attaches to the car (just in front of that there is a bolt that takes a 10mm socket).


Getting the transmission back on was the biggest pain in the ass ever. For some reason I think the dowel pins in the engine block are larger than the DE's because i had to pretty much force the damn transmission on by tightening the bolts slowly in a star pattern to work its way on.

This might sound like a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway. What kind of clutch alignment tool did you use? I helped a guy put a DE back in his P11 (the guy I got the VE from), and he used my "not so favorite" clutch alignment tool, which left the disk slightly off center, and the tranny would NOT go back together again correctly. I mean we could have forced it with the bolts.. but that would have probably caused issues. We took it apart, unbolted the PP and recentered it with my "favorite clutch alignment tool". Then torqued the PP and then the tranny went right on. :)

I too am using an MSD 8969. I just wired it up to one of the stock Blue Nissan relays to activate both solenoids. Keep in mind that the solenoids are not polarity sensitive. So you should be able to connect positive or negative to either wire on them.. but you do have to make sure that only positive is to one lead per solenoid and only negative to the other lead (per solenoid).

well to answer about the trans thing, i used the tool that came with the cluth kit... it fit perfectly and the disc was centered

I used the clutch alignment tool provided by gofastdepot when i bought my nx9-xtss clutch kit. Never had a problem with the tranny not going on until the VE. Around the alignment pins the tranny bell housing actually looks like the surface is protruding from a larger pin being forced into a smaller hole. Really doesnt matter much to me now as long as nothing is broken and i can get the tranny off in the future when shit starts breaking lol.


As for the splicing for the idle air control valve, i actually fed some wire through some 1/8" silicon hose and electrical taped it at both ends where the actual splicing took place so now it just has a nice protective casing. Ill take some pics later if all goes well and she starts up today :)

Kyle, that red plug *should* go to the other water temp sender.

Kyle, that red plug *should* go to the other water temp sender.


The other water temp sensor is a "tab" style plug...

I need to go make a tally of all unused plugs. If I remember correctly, this is what I have left:

Obviously, the ones in the above picture:

red c-clip
blue c-clip
brown plug (AAC)
two gray plugsstarter harness:

tab style plug
c-clip style plug.I would assume that this tab plug goes to the other water sensor...

injector harness:

c-clip style plug (knock sensor - I believe)
does the main plug go by the TB side of the motor or the belt side?
Now that I am thinking about it, I think you are right GP on the water temp sensor. I think the light blue c-clip plug goes to something else (emissions?).

The other water temp sensor is a "tab" style plug...

I need to go make a tally of all unused plugs. If I remember correctly, this is what I have left:

Obviously, the ones in the above picture:
red c-clip
blue c-clip
brown plug (AAC)
two gray plugsstarter harness:
tab style plug
c-clip style plug.I would assume that this tab plug goes to the other water sensor...

injector harness:
c-clip style plug (knock sensor - I believe)
does the main plug go by the TB side of the motor or the belt side?Now that I am thinking about it, I think you are right GP on the water temp sensor. I think the light blue c-clip plug goes to something else (emissions?).

Anybody have any input on these?

Have you got the wire colors on these?

Have you got the wire colors on these?

#1 (yellow/black):

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3223.JPG

#2 (blue-orange/black):

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3224.JPG

#3 (hard to tell - but it looked like blue-orange/black):
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3226.JPG


#4 (white/black - I think this is emissions related - unused):
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3227.JPG

#5 (red/green):
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1089/DSC_3228.JPG



The one on the injector harness I believe is the knock sensor, IIRC it only had one black wire going to it (I taped over it because it was frayed - it is not pictured).

#2 is coolant.

#5 looks like it might be ther VSS connection.

I was thinking the same on #2, #5 definitely makes sense as VSS - it's down by the trans

Any others?