I started my turbo install today by changing the maf with a bored sr20(same insides just different housing, changing the injectors(370cc's) and fpr (nismo), swapped in a jwt ecu programmed for (370cc's, bored maf, 4bar fp) and put in a walbro 255. It will start and run if I stay on the gas, but once I let off it stalls out. I know it could probably be a number of things, but I'm tired and had to give up for the night or I probably would have broke something. Anybody have any idea's??? I am really frustrated :(

You didn't mention a fuel pressure gauge. I just put a Nismo FPR on a car, and it was around 3bar out of the box. Similar setup to yours, 370, 4bar, z32. It started but idled real low until I upped the fuel pressure.

C

I do have a inline gauge. I played with the fuel pressure and I had it running once and the pressure was reading like 80psi and was running really rich and popping everytime I shifted, the idle wasn't very good either. Then I played with it again and never got it running again :( . I do have a question about setting the fp. You unplug the vacuum and then put the car to run, but don't start right?? Everytime i do this I get the inital surge and then it falls back down to like 40psi and then I can't change it??:confused:

No, you have to adjust it with the car running, and line pulled.

C

One more thing..... If the fuel pressure drops like a rock after you shut the car off, you probably have a damaged lower o-ring on one or more of the injectors.

C

No, you have to adjust it with the car running, and line pulled.

C
I try but it doest seem to change? And besides I can't get it to run now :(


One more thing..... If the fuel pressure drops like a rock after you shut the car off, you probably have a damaged lower o-ring on one or more of the injectors.

C

The pressure drops to like 40 when the car is off and stays there.

Get on AIM.

C

YOu think maybe it could be the timing because of the jwt ecu?? I did have it a little advanced? I also have some s3's don't know if that makes a difference.

Get on AIM.

C

OK give me a second...

Chris, I did what you said and had no leaking from the injectors, so I am guessing that the injectors are fine. I got it running with the psi all the way up to 80psi then once warmed up I dropped it down to 59psi and it didn't stall, but once I shut the car off and go to start it I have to rev it up and warm it up to keep it from stalling. Once warmed up its fine?? I looked at the plugs and everyone was fine except cylinder one, which was pitch black. Why and how does one cylinder run so rich??

Atleast I made some kind of progress. Please get back to me and maybe we can talk again and move on to the next step.

thanks
john

Bump for some help??

Maybe you have a bad leaking injector, ive seen it happen numerous times. If they are not leaking with the rail pulled out and key ON then it is possible the injector is just bad and flooding number 1.

I do have a inline gauge. I played with the fuel pressure and I had it running once and the pressure was reading like 80psi and was running really rich and popping everytime I shifted, the idle wasn't very good either. Then I played with it again and never got it running again :( . I do have a question about setting the fp. You unplug the vacuum and then put the car to run, but don't start right?? Everytime i do this I get the inital surge and then it falls back down to like 40psi and then I can't change it??:confused:

I guess you didn't read my answer to your post last week? I specifically stated the engine must be running. :(

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/207450-setting-4bar-fp.html#post2044458

Do you have the gauge on the feed line?

Do you have the gauge on the feed line?

Yes, and yes I did listen to your post last week, but was a little confused on the car being on or just the key in the on position. Regardless it really doesn't matter right now because the only way to keep this thing running is to set the fuel pressure up to like 85psi.

I guess the consensus now is that its a leaky injector?? I mean that would probably make sense for all the pressure because the leaky one is just leaking and it needs the extra fuel to stay running?? Is this what i should try?

thanks

Pull the plugs after it idles for a minute..... See if you have raw gas on it, if you do then im sure you have a bad injector, ive had this happen to me a while back, and it was a bad leaky injector when the car was idling, it just dumped fuel in the cylinder.

sounds like a bad o-rings..

sounds like a bad o-rings..

He already checked that and the O-rings are fine.

Yes, and yes I did listen to your post last week, but was a little confused on the car being on or just the key in the on position. Regardless it really doesn't matter right now because the only way to keep this thing running is to set the fuel pressure up to like 85psi.

I guess the consensus now is that its a leaky injector?? I mean that would probably make sense for all the pressure because the leaky one is just leaking and it needs the extra fuel to stay running?? Is this what i should try?

thanks
no if it is leaking then it is dumping more fuel all the time so the motor is liek wtf is going on here....

i dont what you talk to chris about but did he have you remove the fuel rail, put rags under the injectors and then turn the key on to pressurize the rail? if you leave it like that for a bit and an injector is leaky it will leak out

no if it is leaking then it is dumping more fuel all the time so the motor is liek wtf is going on here....

i dont what you talk to chris about but did he have you remove the fuel rail, put rags under the injectors and then turn the key on to pressurize the rail? if you leave it like that for a bit and an injector is leaky it will leak out

Not always, it will leak IF you have a bad O-ring not neccecerily a bad leaky injector when the car's actually running. Ive had this happen, the O-rings were fine, didnt leak, but when the car was idling it would just dump and spray fuel and flood the cylinder, swapped the injector and all was fine.