This seems to be a strait forward deal. BUt I just wanted to know if anybody had a pointers or tricks that would help.

From Searching:
-RTV Grey is the sealant of choice
-The 5 in one painter tool helps break the pa loose

Any other pointers? Lubing the Bearings up? Problems I might run into Installing them? Anything? I want to make sure this is done right. They are bearings....

Just pay attention. All the caps and rods have numbers on one side. Those numbers all face one direction and should be reinstalled in the same way. Lots of assembly grease. Get all the Tq specs. Do one at a time. Watch out for the oil squirters. Make sure to line up the notches in there grooves.

As far as getting the upper pan off...

-make sure to get that little 10mm in the peeker hole on the flywheel side.

-you can use a longer pan bolt and thread it to pry the upper pan off.

-make sure ALL the upper pan bolts are out before you start to pry.

-cover your face once you get it loose ;)

After the bearings are in rotate it all by hand. It should turn pretty smooth if the plugs are out.

Umm your thread title says "bearing"
Replace all the bearings while you're in there would be my suggestion. ;)

And post pics too!

After the bearings are in rotate it all by hand. It should turn pretty smooth if the plugs are out.

Also how about beck and Arnley Rod Bearings? I was gonna go with OEM but the Becks are $30 for the set of regular ones. Money here isnt really an Issue since this is for my Rod bearings. Should I go with the OEM bearings or will the Beck and Arnleys (Nalla8705 chime in if you read this and let me know the bearing manufacterer) sufice???

I would stick with oem. GregV has them for a decent price.

Umm your thread title says "bearing"
Replace all the bearings while you're in there would be my suggestion. ;)

And post pics too!

so he might aswell drop the motor and completely dissasemble eveything then. lots of people replace the rod bearings as added security on jdm engines, a lot of them tend to fail. to replace the main bearings he might aswell take the motor out and go over everything.

LOL I meant the rod bearings not all the bearings. I was just being a smart ass. ;)

I would stick with oem. GregV has them for a decent price.

See the thing is though...OEM is always better sometimes. I mean theres only so many ways to make a Rod bearing. All it is is a piece of metal. Has anyone found that the aftermarket ones fail more? Just curious.

OK so just an FYI for anybody...Beck N Arnley Rod Bearings are just reboxed ACL bearing...

Got the rod bearings and got the Grey Sealant. Am I missing anything?

Also does anybody have the Tq specs from the FSM on the bolts? I basically need the specs on the rod bolts and all that good stuff and also the sequence for putting the upper oil pan back on. I have the FSM on my computer....but my computer is fucked right now.

Personally, I would buy some draino (the crystal kind with balls) and cut up a white t-shirt. The reason for this is to make a draino solution and make strips out of the t-shirt to wrap around the crank. This will dissolve all aluminum that could have been from the previous bearings. This is pretty critical to bearing longevity. It's a very handy method that has been around for a while in the domestic world.

IIRC the rod caps are between 6-8ft lbs

I could have swore the rod caps are tightened to around 12ft lbs, then to 33ft lbs.

Personally, I would buy some draino (the crystal kind with balls) and cut up a white t-shirt. The reason for this is to make a draino solution and make strips out of the t-shirt to wrap around the crank. This will dissolve all aluminum that could have been from the previous bearings. This is pretty critical to bearing longevity. It's a very handy method that has been around for a while in the domestic world.

IIRC the rod caps are between 6-8ft lbs

So your saying to use the 'dipped in solution' shirt strips and run them around the part that the bearing comes in contact with? If so...makes since. Thanks for that tip.

Anybody have an FSM handy that can give me the for sure Tq specs? Also Im not very good with technical names. But Im guessing the "rod caps" are the part of the rod that has a bolt on each side that I have to take off to replace the bearing right?

im going to do the same thing with my motor, but every body tells me to replace the oil pump seem to be an issue never know when they start going bad. So as a safety measure im going to replace it, I figure since im in there might as well.

So your saying to use the 'dipped in solution' shirt strips and run them around the part that the bearing comes in contact with? If so...makes since. Thanks for that tip.

Anybody have an FSM handy that can give me the for sure Tq specs? Also Im not very good with technical names. But Im guessing the "rod caps" are the part of the rod that has a bolt on each side that I have to take off to replace the bearing right?

Yeah, The solution dissolves any aluminum present from the previous bearings. I dont remember the torque specs for the rod caps. I dont know why I even said that. Maybe i was thinking cam camps.

Yeah, The solution dissolves any aluminum present from the previous bearings. I dont remember the torque specs for the rod caps. I dont know why I even said that. Maybe i was thinking cam camps.

sounds like some good advice

I just finished installing bearings on my engine, and the torque spec is like jer_760 said, first, tighten all to 12-13 ft-lb, then to 33 ft-lb, or thereabouts. (there's a generous factory spec)

For mine, I used Redline's assembly lube and lubed the crank and the bearing. The tub they sell for less than 10 bucks has enough lube to do a ton of engines. (Actually, a ton of engines is only like 7, it'll do more than that ;) )

From the FSM:

Ensure the oil hole in the bearing lines up with the oil hole in the connecting rod.

Install connecting rod caps.
Tighten connecting rod cap nuts to the specified torque.
Tightening procedure:
Tighten nuts to 10-12 ft-lbs.
Turn nuts to 60-65 degrees clockwise or if an angle wrench is not available, tighten nuts to 28-33 ft-lbs.

There are a couple of other things the FSM checks during this procedure, such as crankshaft endplay (to check the thrust bearing wear), and wear limits on the sides of the connecting rod side clearance.

Hope this helps!

Darrin

P.S. looks like scrubnick beat me to it!