Well, I guess when I damaged the front rims(friggin hidden pot hole), I did something to the front half shafts, too.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13790/ppuser/2456
Look at all that effin mess... much worse in person, drivers side.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13791/ppuser/2456
That crap was everywhere, completely coating the inside of front drivers side wheel.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13792/ppuser/2456
It actually looks like the shaft has pulled out some.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13793/ppuser/2456
Can see it better, maybe.

The next 3 pics are of the passenger side, same kind of mess, shaft looks like it's pulled out.
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13794/ppuser/2456
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13795/ppuser/2456
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13796/ppuser/2456

Peas us Riced,
Mark

I know I'm going to have to replace the axels. Tried calling raxels this morning, no one picked up. This bites, it's going to cost me $200 to get the wheels fixed and probably another $200, at least, for the axels.

Anything else I should be replacing when I do this? Oil rings, seals or what? I've never changed an axel before, and just looking at the fsm is making my wallet hemmorage.

Any and all advice on parts and trouble to look out for will be appreciated.

Peas us Riced,
Mark

Unless they are clicking, you could just replace the boots.

Just looks like torn boots to me as well.

Replace/regrease the boots and all is well!

I'm not sure you can just replace the boots. I don't know if you can tell from the pics, but not only are the boots leaking crap near the wheels, but the area near the tranny has separated as well.

I'd love to just replace the boots... less money. What about the separate area further in, can those boots be replaced too?

Didn't mention it before, but the right side makes a "noise" when taking a sharp rh turn.

Peas us Riced,
Mark

Didn't mention it before, but the right side makes a "noise" when taking a sharp rh turn.

Yeah that one needs to be replaced. Usually RH click equals left axle, LH click equals right axle. Are you sure it is coming from the right side?

Yeah that one needs to be replaced. Usually RH click equals left axle, LH click equals right axle. Are you sure it is coming from the right side?

Yep, I've driven a car with a bad cv joint before(had a Honda for 17 years... the last year, drove it that way for a year). It's coming from the rhs side, but it hasn't started to sound really bad... yet.

The smaller boots that are on the tranny to axel have also come loose... or they're supposed to look that way. I've just never noticed before.

The car is almost 17 years old('91 SE-R), and the axels have never been replaced.

Peas us Riced,
Mark

Yeah, the boots get brittle and tear at the seams when they get old... mine seperated after we swapped the motor on the b13. looked like that and I drove it for 8 months and finally changed the driver side. You'll be fine.

See if you can possibly find some used around the way.

i was going to go with raxles, but couldnt dish out the cash and at the time was needing cv axles immediatly so i went with the autozone lifetime warenty thingys and i was skeptical at 1st but so far so good with 5 months and around 5000 miles on em, their holding up nicely....Payed 135 for left/right side all said and done

Mark, if you feel up to it, you could replace the shaft seals on the tranny. I would at least inspect them, see if the rubber is cut or cracked. They're not hard to do. Set you back about $60 for the seals.

not an uncommon think man, either change the boots or just get remaned axles from nappa for like $60 with the core...

I don't want to have to do this over. So, I'll order my raxel axels tomorrow and a set of seals(thanks Rob). Don't know what else I should replace, but I'll start there.

I've got Thursday off, will pick up my wheels on Wednesday, order the seals from the local dealership... and have my car back on the road by Friday.

Other than a mallet, 32mm socket and a cheater bar... is there anything else I should have on hand?

Thanks,
Mark

patience.........lots of it.

Well, the start is off to a bang. Broke my craftsman 1/2" ratchet, broke a breaker bar and then bent the hell out of another.... just to get the axel bolts off.

Didn't get hardly anything done today, other than that. Good thing I had to special order my new half shafts from raxels, they won't be here until middle of next week... went for an upgraded/stronger/beefier set rather than just oem replacement style.

Time for a shower, then to pick up the kids and head for the ymca pool... need to cool off my wrinkled hairy mass;).

Peas us Riced,
Mark

Well, the start is off to a bang. Broke my craftsman 1/2" ratchet, broke a breaker bar and then bent the hell out of another.... just to get the axel bolts off.
Harbor Freight has a 240 lb-ft electric impact wrench for ~$40, a knockoff of a DeWalt I paid a treasure for (have both, the DeWalt is broken). It beats jumping up and down on a breaker bar.

So what's the difference between a regular Raxles rebuild and their special model?

Harbor Freight has a 240 lb-ft electric impact wrench for ~$40, a knockoff of a DeWalt I paid a treasure for (have both, the DeWalt is broken). It beats jumping up and down on a breaker bar.

So what's the difference between a regular Raxles rebuild and their special model?


If it's the big orange one, I have it - works grrrrreat! :biggthump

It's the big orange one for $ 40 and change. Best investment I've made so far, finally got to put my G-Spec VE underdrive pulley on yesterday after a year of trying to take it off with brute force and cheater bars. Get it vladha, makes life a hell of a lot easier!