Kojima on the 300/200 Ratio [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: Kojima on the 300/200 Ratio


Mean
07-01-2002, 07:58 PM
Found this while searching the Mailing List archives and thought it was good enough to repost here.

Gene

Matthew wrote:

>Can anyone offer an explanation why we have seen recommendations for GC
>coil overs with spring rates of 300 front 200 rear? I am ATTEMPTING, as
>are some others on the list, to emulate the success of the Allen's who
>won the SCCA Solo2 Street Touring (now termed STS) championship last
>year in an Integra GS-R. They used a CG set up that employed spring
>rates of 375 front 450 rear, quite a bit stiffer. The Trunk Kit for
>SCCA Showroom Stock class that the Mazda Protégé uses has spring rates
>of 325 front and 600 rear. Now, these cars weigh approximately the same
>as a SE-R, so why the bias towards tremendously stiffer rear springs?
>Is this the correct way to maximize grip at both the front and the
>rear? It must work on both the road course and at autocrosses, so I
>doubt that it is just a way to gain oversteer characteristics. Anyone
>out there with a similar set-up on an SE-R care to comment, and will
>GABs (or even KYB-AGX or Koni inserts) survive such stiff spring rates?
>Any opinions are appreciated.

I came up with these spring rates as a compromise setting that would work
much better than any of the typical aftermarket street replacement type
springs that are typically only about 20-30 percent stiffer than stock. The
original recommendation was from Jay Morris at Ground Control which was
verified by me through testing a few different spring rates through street
driving and track driving on my car and other peoples cars. I am not an
autocrosser so I personally did not test them in autocross but Geogre
Pereinis won the Pro-Solo national championship on these rates.

I recommend these rates because they give a slightly more neutral balance to
the car. The car will 4 wheel drift, leading with the front wheels. The
car will tighten the line under lift throttle and will oversteer under trail
braking. I feel that this is good, safe, predictable handling for most
people. Naturally many drivers will like there car looser and have a fwd
car rotate more aggressively.

As for what spring rates work well on other cars, there is a huge difference
between the spring rate and wheel rate. Different suspension designs have
different motion ratios and wheel rate curves. The rate at the wheels can
vary depending on how the springs are mounted. Wheel rate and the wheel
rate curves are a function of how much lever arm and the pivot locations of
the suspension. In a real rough example a spring that works directly on a
wheel will need to be doubled in rate to maintain the same wheel rate if it
is mounted half way inboard on the control arm, or if it is canted inboard
by a lot. It is not exactly this but it will help you visualize what I am
talking about.

An example of this in a car that I know about would be a 280ZX or a 510 with
semi trailing arm inboard springs. You often run a higher rate rear spring
with these because of the suspensions motion ratio. The Integra with it's
multilink suspension runs the springs more inboard than a strut type SE-R so
the higher spring rate does not necessarily mean a higher wheel rate.

The beauty of the coilover conversions is that you can fine tune your spring
rates because of the wide availability of rates available, an option you
don't have with street springs.

Now some people have had success with running 250 in/lb rear springs and a
few run even higher. I my self don't like the car so tail happy but you
should not be worried with experimenting. ERS springs are cheaper than
regular street springs. Building a competitive car is all about testing. I
also feel that if you go much stiffer than 250 in/lb in the rear, the car
will hop around in rough corners and lose traction. I have experimented
with as high as 300 in the rear and that was my impression. I currently run
350 front and 250 rear but that is getting to be on the edge of what I
consider to be streetable. 300/200 rides quite nicely, better in my opinion
that typical street lowering springs as these tend to let the car bottom too
much.

Mike

98sr20ve
07-01-2002, 08:23 PM
That guy can write. He should see if he can earn some money writing or something. ;)

I still want to try a stiffer front bar and a stiffer rear spring. Experimentation is good as he said.

MaddMatt
07-01-2002, 11:09 PM
I certainly agree with the 350/250 being on the edge of streetable. And my SE-R with those rates and a 17mm rear bar seems to rotate even better than my friends GS-R with 375/425 rates, and 22mm rear bar. So I will certainly agree with the "what works on a Honda may/may not work on a Nissan" theory.

Also, a car that is set up perfectly for track (very tail-happy, easy to rotate) is almost *impossible* to control in fast transitions at an autocross. A well set up track car makes a poor autocross car. The setup is very different.

Mean
07-02-2002, 09:50 AM
Now I will reply to my own note.

I am waiting on the spring deal which will have close to these ratios. I will also include KYBs, Koni Bump Stops, and ES bushings. A rear sway bar may be added later. But currently as a Novice, on my 140K mile stock suspension, I ran 5th out of 17 entries this past weekend. Also, my wife says my inside rear tire was off the ground on every turn.

Any opinions what this type of setup will do to my times? What should I expect? Will my tires keep lifting? Are they lifting because I am doing something wrong? BTW, I run 14 inch Falkens.

Thanks,
Gene

maxQ
07-02-2002, 01:38 PM
Originally posted by Mean
Now I will reply to my own note.

Also, my wife says my inside rear tire was off the ground on every turn.

"Hello, Tire Rack, yeah, I'd like three Victoracers in 195/55R14, please."
"No, no... I only need three. I don't use the other one." :p

Seriously, haven't you watched how long Scott and I spend on three wheels? The stiffer springs will probably reduce the height of the lift but not as much the fact that it's in the air. You'd have to stiffen the chassis significantly to keep the tire on the ground. And I'm not sure it's worth it to... numerous full-up FWD race cars I know of spend some time on three wheels.

Andy

slowSER
07-02-2002, 03:01 PM
The Black Bitch, maybe not on three wheels, but pretty close:

http://www.hmp.net/slowse-r/pics/mycar/cendiv01a.jpg

MaddMatt
07-02-2002, 03:02 PM
What Andy said. FWD cars just do that. I have a roll cage, AGXs, Ground controls, and a big rear bar and I still 3 wheels it around tight stuff. The amount I raise it has decreased but I still do.

Back end only keeps the gas tank from dragging anyway :p

Kelway
07-02-2002, 03:23 PM
I know I probably don't belong here, but since you were talking about 3 wheelin'...

http://www.youngs-furniture.com/pics/se_nx_4.jpg
http://www.youngs-furniture.com/pics/se-nx_5.jpg

Quality's not too good but you can tell what it is.:D

Trys_Hard
07-02-2002, 04:01 PM
Look at my Sig! :D

Mean
07-02-2002, 04:11 PM
I would like to post my picture but I am not allowed. How are you guys doing it? Anyway, here's a link.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291714033&p=4255284664&idx=16

You have to download the image to see it in it's 1600x1200 glory. The angle makes it hard to see the right rear wheel. Also note that the front right wheel is barely touching the ground as well.

So how much time will the suspension get me? I know it's a stupid question. All I know is that I am a Novice and I'm right next to full suspension guys who have been driving longer. Will my times improve or will the car's ability to achieve better times improve? I tell non-enthusiasts that I am doing well against full suspension cars and then I realize that I may end up in the same place having spent more money. I have never modded a suspension or driven one and compared it directly to mine so I have no idea.

Gene

Kelway
07-02-2002, 11:00 PM
Originally posted by Mean

So how much time will the suspension get me? I know it's a stupid question. All I know is that I am a Novice and I'm right next to full suspension guys who have been driving longer. Will my times improve or will the car's ability to achieve better times improve? I tell non-enthusiasts that I am doing well against full suspension cars and then I realize that I may end up in the same place having spent more money. I have never modded a suspension or driven one and compared it directly to mine so I have no idea.

Gene

I'm in about the same situation as you. I was about a second back from the winning ACR Neon at my last regional, before I got my ST bar. I'm no expert, but the thing that bugs me most about my worn out stock suspension is that it seems to have no precision; I have a hard time putting the car exactly where I want it, and it is more difficult to do quick transitions, though the ST rear bar helps a ton. If you are pretty good w/ stock suspension, IMO we should kick some ass w/ great suspension, because we will be able to cut closer to the cones, and slalom without wallowing.

shoe
07-05-2002, 12:20 AM
You cant compare spring rates of one set of cars to another. Actually honda's and acura's have a better suspension than us SE-R's. We have a regular macpherson strut suspension where as they have an unequal length control arm suspension which is more costly to produce and better suited for aggessive turning.

sleeping 91ser
07-07-2002, 08:43 PM
im just curious if anyone knows the reason that he doesnt post on here???
Sean

Andy R.
07-07-2002, 09:00 PM
I have been running on 450 fr and 550rear in my B13 ITS racer for three years now and I cannot imagine any thing else on spring rates except going higher on front and rear. Coming from a rwd GT-3 racer I am used to the oversteer but it is NOT excessive infact very forgiving. It did take a while to get used to the stiff (harsh) rear. Can be murder on a rough track.


Even in the wet the car is awesome. Started 21st and ended up 8th in ITS. One the two times I finished in the top ten in the class. It may not be for everyone, certainly not for the street.

Andy R.

www.sentraserpower@msnusers.com

chriscar
07-07-2002, 09:01 PM
Originally posted by sleeping 91ser
im just curious if anyone knows the reason that he doesnt post on here???
Sean

If you're referring to Kojima, it's proably (I think) he's one of the people who runs www.nissanforums.com

Chris

sleeping 91ser
07-08-2002, 12:54 AM
Originally posted by chriscar


If you're referring to Kojima, it's proably (I think) he's one of the people who runs www.nissanforums.com

Chris
yeah I know that , but we have been around for much longer than that site and I can't ever remember him posting on here even long before that site was up, just wondering if there was some reason?
Sean

chriscar
07-08-2002, 12:59 AM
Probably just that he's too busy to post here. Even his posts to the national mailing list are few and far between.

Chris

gwellwood
07-08-2002, 01:44 AM
Originally posted by Mean
So how much time will the suspension get me?

We could look at theoretical time.

The stock SE-R is in D/S, and the PAX factor for D/S is 0.799 (CACC Regs (www.caccautosport.org)). We have a "Super Stock" class that basically permits only suspension mods - kind of in-between stock and street prepared. If you did the suspension, you would go to D/SS, where the PAX is 0.811. This means on a 60 second course, you would need to be 0.72 seconds faster to beat yourself in stock form. One could assume, then, that your susension should drop 3/4 of a second off your times.

My Sentra XE is in F/SS, with springs, struts, sway bars, bushings, 13x7's and front stb. H/S PAX is 0.781, F/SS PAX is 0.809 - I need to be 1.68 seconds faster than myself in stock to win. I'm neck and neck with an AE86 Corolla every event.... I'm on 205/60R13 Toyos and he's on 215/50R13 A032R's. I've placed in the top 10 PAX for 2 of 3 regional events.

You may find that you need to be smoother once the suspension is done. There is little forgiveness for a sloppy driver on a prepped suspension.

Good luck!

Greg

Mean
07-08-2002, 10:13 AM
No offense but I prefer the 1-3 second decrease using the SCCA PAX numbers from STS and GS. Of course that's a fully prepped STS car so you're probably right. That's too bad because I was tired of working on the driver. :)

Anyway, I figure I am going to be too impatient to do one mod at a time. I will do the springs and struts together and tune that. The sway bar, STB, and bushing will wait.

Gene

gwellwood
07-08-2002, 11:28 AM
Originally posted by Mean
No offense but I prefer the 1-3 second decrease using the SCCA PAX numbers from STS and GS.

No worries! I don't run in in the SCCA up here in Canada, eh?(my 1995 B13 is a phantom car - it doesn't exist in the states, and we don't have an STS class in the CACC)

PAX would be the fairest way to expect your gains - use whatever numbers work for you.

Oh yeah, and it's all about the driver (tee hee).

Keep smiling!

Greg