Can anyone gimme some tips? I got a gtir det block with forged pistons and rods, sr20ve motor, 550cc injectors and a hydraulic lsd gearbox from Japan. So I was think of using e-management ultimate for management and either a t3/t4 hybrid or a t28 ball bearing. I am trying to have the car as reliable as possible so I was thinking of going for lower boost levels with the t28 so that I wont be destroying the gearbox constantly. I will be grateful for any suggestions and helpful tips.

GTiR pistons, rods, crank and big end bearings into the VE motor. You will need to modify the DE flywheel bolt holes to fit onto the GTiR crank and need the GTiR flywheel bolts as well.

Which 550cc injectors are they, side feed or top feed?

I also think you mean a viscous LSD from Japan.

i have a det block with aftermarket internals I was thinking about putting the head on it.
Yeh it should be a Vicious Hydraulic LSD.
Side feed injectors

Do what Iamhappy said...it's the easiest way to get this motor together. Also if you don't have the GTIR flywheel bolts you can buy specV flywheel bolts from Greg V and or you can buy mine since i didn't use them.

FYI i have a GTIR crank in an SR16VE block along with the GTIR girdle...You are also going to want to run GTIR bearings all around

You will have a tougher time putting the VE head on the GTIR block because you will need to enlarge the holes for the head bolts for the gtir parts.

also order a new gasket kit from GregV (gspec performance)

so I cant use the det head gasket?

no...

Ok thanks OnyxEros and iamhappy46

What about running the oil lines from the block to the turbo? Is it the same as on the sr20de?

Can anyone tell me where to drill the hole for a oil return line for the turbo on the sr20ve block?

I got a t3/t4 turbonetics ball bearing turbo so I will be using this on my setup. What size Throttle Body should I use?

And I may get a Haltech stand alone ecu for management.

Any more suggestions and advice would be much appreciated

i am going to disagree with some people here and say, if the gtir bottom end is all together might as well use that and do the head swap

the gtir block is tougher, the head studs are better and it already has lines taped for turbo

there will be a little stuffing around in drilling out the holes in the head for the thicker studs etc, but hey pulling the motor down and reassembling is gonna be just as hard

a 20ve block is the same as a DE block in terms of drilling for the oil return line

A gtir block is older and you have to run external oil lines to feed the VVL in the head

A gtir block may have been tougher but a correctly built and tuned VE-t will do 500+whp

at 500whp you have way more to worry about than the 'stronger block'

A point I forget to mention the pistons are a little bigger and I will have to bore over the ve block, but the gtir block is already fitted for the pistons.

What about the gearbox how much hp can it hold because I was reading somewhere that it can only take up to 280hp is this true?

a 20ve block is the same as a DE block in terms of drilling for the oil return line

A gtir block is older and you have to run external oil lines to feed the VVL in the head

A gtir block may have been tougher but a correctly built and tuned VE-t will do 500+whp

at 500whp you have way more to worry about than the 'stronger block'

tapping the vvl in the head is pretty easy

dont forget the guy has spend a bit of $$$$ preping this block for oversized pistons etc

and whats older got to do with anything, the engine is a fresh rebuild, and block has already been preped. why throw all that away for the sake of taping the head for vvl and elongating the head stud holes?

Pulsar gearboxes are the weakest link and there are plenty of people with SR20DE's that are destroying them. PAR in Australia have a dog or synchromesh gearset option which is rated to around 600Hp :)

65mm or 70mm throttlebody would be a good choice as there is no drastic need to go bigger with the VE inlet manifold flow rates. Based on your turbo choice, the 550cc injectors may be a little bit small depending on how much power your chasing...

You would also need to swap over the VE oil pump + pickup if you build the GTiR block and the GTiR has a smaller sump volume around the pickup than a VE which is another reason I would use the VE block. Widening the VE bolt holes to accept the wider studs may sound easy but why bother?

If it was me, I would be selling the GTiR block with all of the internals as a kit for someone then use the ca$h to help fund a megabuild of the VE block with a DE/DET crank with the correct flywheel bolt pattern.

You would also need to swap over the VE oil pump + pickup if you build the GTiR block and the GTiR has a smaller sump volume around the pickup than a VE which is another reason I would use the VE block. Widening the VE bolt holes to accept the wider studs may sound easy but why bother?



the block is already built! so its not a matter of deciding to build it, thats why i would bother widening the bolt holes

tapping the vvl in the head is pretty easy

dont forget the guy has spend a bit of $$$$ preping this block for oversized pistons etc

and whats older got to do with anything, the engine is a fresh rebuild, and block has already been preped. why throw all that away for the sake of taping the head for vvl and elongating the head stud holes?


Hmmmm
run external oil lines for VVL and tapping the head for larger bolts or spend $200 on boring the cyl 1mm and tapping the block like anyone else would???

Really simple answer for me

For the record I run a 16ve block with a GTIR crank and girdle...crazy simple and reliable.

Hmmmm
run external oil lines for VVL and tapping the head for larger bolts or spend $200 on boring the cyl 1mm and tapping the block like anyone else would???

Really simple answer for me

For the record I run a 16ve block with a GTIR crank and girdle...crazy simple and reliable.

i do see your point, and also agree that if his motor wasn't already built, running a gtir crank, girdle and forged setup in a ve block would be easier, but considering the block is already bottem end is assembled, etc, it might be easier to run an external oil feed line, tap the head for vvl, and elongate the head holes as apposed to completley ripping down the motor, preping the new block, reassembling it, tapping in oil and coolant lines (depending on what turbo)

either way i supose its not too hard, but at the end of teh day i would rather the gtir block and thicker head studs for the same, if not less amount of work.

i will go with with gti-r block with ve head aswell. much less hassles to tap the ve head than to rebuild a whole block and tap it

im waiting for my VE to arrive from japan then im doing the head swap on my gti-r bottom end too