well, these are my future susp. set-up plans:
GC coilovers
Koni #8611 struts(ext. dual adjustable)
GC camber/caster plates
courtesy nissan f+r strut braces
es bushings

maybee some kind of anti-roll bar-not sure though


comments please!

What chassis do you have?

I've got a b14, and I run the following:

GCs w/ 350f/300r
KYB AGX single adjustable struts
Stock front sway bar
ST rear sway bar
15" wheels w/ Azenis
1/3 degree front toe out

My car is lowered ~1.5" in front and ~3/4" in the rear. Ride is firm but easily livable. Car still understeers quite heavily, despite several shock combinations. Dosen't turn enough for autocross, but is quite nice on the racetrack.

It all depends what you want to do with the car and how much you want to spend. Sounsd like you have a pretty nice setup in mind.

I have a B14 also. I was planning on getting the agx's also, but have decided to go with the koni's. what spring rate would you recommend? I do mostly street driving but still want an agressive set up. are sway bars the same as anti roll bars? i know my se-r has a bar underneath the front end-is it an anti roll or a sway bar?

Originally posted by JDM_2ner
are sway bars the same as anti roll bars?

sway, anti-roll and stabilizer bar are all the same thing.

Don't forget to do the front and back motor mounts if you do ES bushings. With much stiffer suspension your engine will play more, plus the motor mounts make your engine much louder and you'll convert more power to the ground.

I wouldn't say the ES torque set is related to the suspension at all, but it does make quite a nice feel difference in the car. Plus, at ~$30 it's a great deal. Takes a touch of elbow grease to get them in though... Your steering wheel will shake a bit at startup and idle, and a *slight bit* more noise comes into the cabin, but that's the only drawbacks. They reduce wheel hop a little, too.

Yeah, just to put light on ES bushings. My friend and I did the entire setup, every single bushing. If you are going to do the job yourself make sure you have a Sawzaw and a heavy duty C-clamp. Alot of the bolts were rusted solid to the inner metal bushings in the rear end and I had to cut them then go to a bolt supply shop and get new bolts. I rented the sawzaw from Home Depot for like $12. I actually bent a couple of 9 inch C-clamps pressing some of the old bushings out. I had to go to a specialty shop and by a monster 14 inch mack daddy clamp, that did the job though. It took two full days of work too, of course I did it in my parents garage. I might as well have done it in my apartment complexe's parking lot, did'nt really have the best tool assortment. Anyways, take a couple of days off to change the bushings and have the right equipment ready.