http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3479846

I'm looking to get rid of this thing asap...

$3700

BUY THIS!

I'm lowering the price because of the check engine light.

I scanned the car with one of those small actron reader

P1613 - MIL call-up circuit open/short to positive
(this is the only code im not sure about, it has something to do with the check engine light, it could also be caused by the chip in the computer but i dont know.)

P0605 - PCM read ony memory error
(this code im pretty sure is being thrown from the chip)

P1127 - Long Term Fuel Trim B1 System too rich
(On this one im sure that the first 02 sensor is just sending lean fuel code because of the turbo, the car has a higher air/fuel ratio than stock)

P0103 - Mass Air Flow circuit high input
(this one is on because of the high amount of air from the turbo is way above stock, and the sensor has a higher voltage than normal) you can get a vr6 maf and that will probably go away.

If you know a little about turbo cars these codes should be easy to fix...the car still passed emissions and inspection so they really aren't a big deal till next year.

very good lookin car.. vw gti parts an the car would look sweeter then a tootsie pop

yeah i personally dont like the hood and wheels...but i bought it like that and havent done much to it...BUMP!

sweeter then a tootsie pop? im not to sure about that one, would be sweet if someone bought and put a dohc 16 valve head on from the early 90s mk2 jetta/gti's.. and of course changed the wheels and the hood, dropped it and removed that pinstripe. BUMP

yeah those are great suggestions, now buy it, and do that.

trade for that mk2. that shit is very niceee

i used to have a 98 8v golf...thing was the slowest car i've ridden in in my entire life, but damn if it didn't look nice! hahah hope yours is ALOT faster than mine was. I don't think you can put the 16v head on the 8v...but i may very well be mistaken...

with the right wheels and suspension they can be hottness
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/XOsilvia/081107_1158.jpg

BUMP from an ex-dubber!

chocolate pudding bump.

ttt lowered price

cant put a 16v on a 8v ......... it whack.

also y0ur gettin those codes to due to a vaccuum leak. or injector is stuck open, or o2 is bad

which codes are due to those things...i'm pretty sure there is no vaccuum leak. the MAF sensor is going off because its located after the turbo, if it were relocated before the turbo then the code should go off.

... bump your correct . you have blow thru maf set up.. notice that the only other thing before maf is the bov.. which could be failing.. and opening up at idle just a tad.....

your right...there is a little whine coming from the BOV even with no throttle...i will try to relocate the maf and see what happens.

ok i know this isn't the right place but since we are already on the topic...i re-located the maf right behind the intake...when i started it up it idled perfectly...then i took it for a spin down the road and when i pushed in the clutch and let the rpms drop the car stalled. Does this mean i need a new maf or a bigger one...or is something else wrong?

intercooler piping has a leak or coupling came off though this isnt a vw forum its cool i rather you fix it an get it running sweet an think about it before goin threw with it... if it fixes an you wanna sell it theyll give ya what your asking no doubt. you can crush the bov with a sea clamp an use leverage with old brake disc or something similar to hardness. i woulndt suggest this.. i really suggest gettin a greddy type s or Rs an welding the flange on there an seeing how it rides.. right now the bov staying open is making it run lil to rich at idle.. also your plugs should be fouled out from too much gas.. once u get the bov situation asituated get new spark plugs an wham. fast ass car again. the 8v does have life as does anything with a turbo system. gotta stay ontop of it though

try it out dude you lose nothing by doin this an just by adding the bov you can stay firm on the 3700 or bring it higher if you like.

if you already have a type s just tighten the hell outta it use a nut to lock it in place with lock washer as well.. change plugs .

just saw this pic an yea get rid of the blue coupling an get something that fits the pipe snug.http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r31/SE-Rethan/DSC00706.jpg air looks like it would leak threw there

that bov in that picture is a type S and i put new plugs in the car just a little bit ago. I put colder plugs in a lessened the gap, so they are fine. The reason the car didn't run when the maf was right behind the filter is because of the BOV. The air that comes out of the BOV becomes unmetered air, and thats what causes the car the stall.

I was told if i use a Recirculator instead i wouldn't have this problem.

Anyway i moved the MAF back where is was (just like above picture), and it runs just fine, so im leavin it that way.

ok but bov shoulndt be opening at idle an yea you could recirculate it

cant put a 16v on a 8v ......... it whack.

also y0ur gettin those codes to due to a vaccuum leak. or injector is stuck open, or o2 is bad


just so you know captain dipshyt you can put a 16v head on an 8v block and the make much more power... so really what im saying is your whack and im pretty sure your on crack.:rofl: stick to nissans

alright....lets not turn this into a bashing thread and just keep to selling it

and on that note...BUMP