Wheel Stud/bolt broken, replace? [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: Wheel Stud/bolt broken, replace?


PULSSSAR
07-11-2002, 10:55 PM
I recently had a cross threaded rear wheel stud/bolt in my hub. I got a replacement from nissan for $6aus ($2.70ish usa) and replaceed it by removing my caliper and rotor. (knocked it throught, inserted the new one, and screwed a nut on there to pull the spline through and into the hub. Worked fine..

Recently a front stuf has f*cked up too! *grrr*.. this is what happens when your a boy racer and you swap street to race wheels and back all the time :(

Now, I'm curious, will the front stud be just as easy to replace? Or will I have drama's? hope i dont have to remove the hub or knock the cv spline out or any crap like that.. I value my current wheel alignment settings...

Any advice? Thank you

Also, does anyone make stronger wheel studs/bolts? maybe longer ones too for running spacers to increase track in the car whilst racing?

Thanks, James

Ben
07-12-2002, 07:36 PM
On the front take off the caliper and rotor. It will be cake after that.

SERprise In WV
07-12-2002, 09:13 PM
You can find longer wheel studs over at www.nismoparts.com for our US B-chassis cars. Not sure if they're a direct fit on your Pulsar or not, but knowing Nissan, I have a feeling your car probably also uses 12x1.25 thread pitch wheel studs.

Good luck.

PULSSSAR
07-14-2002, 05:47 AM
Excellent, I'll suss it out. Yeah the N14 is simular to the B' cars... hubs, brakes, suspension items, all very very simular :)

James

Pfsantos
04-05-2007, 11:50 AM
Old thread, but worth mentioning...

I once cross threaded a nut on a stud, and once was enough for me. Now I screw them until I see the stud if not all the way until hand tight. Then I grab the ratchet. Take a few seconds more, and avoid a lot of PITA.

Sigfod
04-05-2007, 03:56 PM
Old thread, but worth mentioning...

I once cross threaded a nut on a stud, and once was enough for me. Now I screw them until I see the stud if not all the way until hand tight. Then I grab the ratchet. Take a few seconds more, and avoid a lot of PITA.

I always go until all the way hand tight I never touch it with a tool until the wheel is flush up against the rotor, then it is just hand tight one lug at a time in a criss-cross pattern until tight. Then I drop the car down and torque to 84 ft-lbs