I am on stock struts that are past their prime. I plan to use my 91 SE-R as my winter beater, and if it survives, then to start building it as a long-term project in the spring.

Assuming that it survives, I will need new struts. Are the GR-2s a good stock replacement? I sincerely doubt that I will be doing much to the suspension, if anything. I MAY (down the road) go with the RM or Hyperco springs, at which time I'd most likely do Konis or AGXs. If I ran the GR-2s on the springs at all, it would be a temporary setup.

I have Nismo S-Tune springs with Konis (the Nismo-badged KYB struts blew) on my B15, so I know what a modest lowering and Konis can do for handling.

GR2's are great stock replacement dampers for our cars. The damping is slightly stiffer than stock on mid-speed rebound, so they feel less floaty on the highway than the OE Nissan ones. Go for it.

so gr-2 are no struts 2 use on the sentra when building a street car?

Good dampers, you can even get away with running them with hyperco's or road magnets.

dont mean to thread-jack... but that is good information to know.. just bought some gr2s and was going to get some road magnets. glad to know im not the only one going with gr2s :)

Good dampers, you can even get away with running them with hyperco's or road magnets.

Er... I wouldn't do that. GR2's are pretty suitable for the stock springs, but in order to run the Hypercos or Road Magments comfortably you'd need a lot more rebound damping. Think KYB AGX set to the highest setting all around.

Agreed - GR2's are pretty much stock replacement units. I wouldn't expect them to control high rate springs.

C

Er... I wouldn't do that. GR2's are pretty suitable for the stock springs, but in order to run the Hypercos or Road Magments comfortably you'd need a lot more rebound damping. Think KYB AGX set to the highest setting all around.
While I don't disagree that GR-2s are probably not suited to lowering springs with high rates, I have to say that to just blindly set AGXs to parallel settings is a potential mistake. Given quality control issues related to consistency between struts, you can't just set tem both to "5" and expect performance to be identical right and left. Try it once- evenly distribute your weight to them during compression and you will see that they typically compress at different rates. Then fully compress them and release them at the same time. I was shocked at how differently the two rebounded. I have found that with Konis, AGXs, Illuminas, etc., that the best thing to do is set one, then dial the other to be as close as possible. You might not be running the same settings on the left and the right.

Your experience may vary, but in about 15 installs of adjustable struts of all three brands noted above on multiple chassis types, this was my experience.

While I don't disagree that GR-2s are probably not suited to lowering springs with high rates, I have to say that to just blindly set AGXs to parallel settings is a potential mistake. Given quality control issues related to consistency between struts, you can't just set tem both to "5" and expect performance to be identical right and left. Try it once- evenly distribute your weight to them during compression and you will see that they typically compress at different rates. Then fully compress them and release them at the same time. I was shocked at how differently the two rebounded. I have found that with Konis, AGXs, Illuminas, etc., that the best thing to do is set one, then dial the other to be as close as possible. You might not be running the same settings on the left and the right.

Your experience may vary, but in about 15 installs of adjustable struts of all three brands noted above on multiple chassis types, this was my experience.

You raise a good point, and I agree with you. I just wanted to get across that 300 lb-f/in springs on our cars requires a fair bit more damping than what some people would expect (even AGX's need to be set very high in order to provide sufficient damping).

Would this also be the case for a DD that sees mostly highway miles? that is the case with my nx. for now, i just want to drive it and feel comfortable. i dont have a problem with stock height, however i did want to lower it with road magnets. im not looking to do any track racing and here in Az most of the streets and highways are in good condition and smooth, at least where i drive through. also, has anyone had personal experience with gr2s on a DD that has been lowered for a DD? im trying figure out what to expect if i do go this route. The last set of shocks i bought from A-Zone went out very quickly on a stock suspension and left me with a bad taste in my mouth for the brand i bought.

any and all advice that is given and has been given has been appreciated.

Would this also be the case for a DD that sees mostly highway miles? that is the case with my nx. for now, i just want to drive it and feel comfortable. i dont have a problem with stock height, however i did want to lower it with road magnets. im not looking to do any track racing and here in Az most of the streets and highways are in good condition and smooth, at least where i drive through. also, has anyone had personal experience with gr2s on a DD that has been lowered for a DD? im trying figure out what to expect if i do go this route. The last set of shocks i bought from A-Zone went out very quickly on a stock suspension and left me with a bad taste in my mouth for the brand i bought.

any and all advice that is given and has been given has been appreciated.
I cannot speak as to how long they will last, but I can verify that if you buy them from an authorized retailer, you will at least be warrantied if they blow. I think that they are warrantied to a 1.5" drop. KYB does not specify spring rates for the warranty- just drop distance.

That does not mean that they won't perform like crap, but they will be warrantied such that if you blow them, you can always replace the blown ones and go back to stock springs (or replace them, sell them, and put the money toward Konis or AGXs).

I'm running gr2's and road magnets. It is a little bouncy, but not dangerous or anything. Upgrading to konis soon. Road magnets are really stiff. I can step on my front bumper and the car probably moves about an 1/8 of an inch down. I weigh 180.

I didn't like GR-2's, though these were paired with a not-so-suitable spring, on a full strut design. They were Eibach Prokits, which are really recommended only to be used on CSK's, if at all. Now, I didn't NOT like them because of bounce and what not, the ride was actually pretty smooth. From a performance standpoint, though, I couldn't take corners, or curved roads very comfortably. I felt too much body roll, and I DEFINITELY don't like that.

That being said, I absolutely love my AGX/RM combo. I actually decided to raise the dampening on the struts, as 2F/4R is still a bit too soft in my area. I'm thinking 3F/6R would be a little stiffer, and not jarring.

Why do people think that if they are not racing that the advice posted, somehow, doesn't apply? The issue of GR2's has nothing to do with driving conditions and everything to do with damping and its ability to dampen a higher spring rate than stock..... If you are going to lower your car with a stiff spring do it with the right strut.

I didn't like GR-2's, though these were paired with a not-so-suitable spring, on a full strut design. They were Eibach Prokits, which are really recommended only to be used on CSK's, if at all. Now, I didn't NOT like them because of bounce and what not, the ride was actually pretty smooth. From a performance standpoint, though, I couldn't take corners, or curved roads very comfortably. I felt too much body roll, and I DEFINITELY don't like that.

That being said, I absolutely love my AGX/RM combo. I actually decided to raise the dampening on the struts, as 2F/4R is still a bit too soft in my area. I'm thinking 3F/6R would be a little stiffer, and not jarring.


im experiencing the same body roll problem. i have red h&r racing springs with gr-2's. what can i do to stop the body roll? sway bars? or do i really need to change to better shocks like agx?

Why do people think that if they are not racing that the advice posted, somehow, doesn't apply? The issue of GR2's has nothing to do with driving conditions and everything to do with damping and its ability to dampen a higher spring rate than stock..... If you are going to lower your car with a stiff spring do it with the right strut.

Agreed. Just that the average person would compare struts based on driving conditions, not soley on the dampening ability of the strut assembly, and the spring mounted to it.

im experiencing the same body roll problem. i have red h&r racing springs with gr-2's. what can i do to stop the body roll? sway bars? or do i really need to change to better shocks like agx?

I would at a minimum get better strut assemblies. GR-2's are recommended ONLY for stock strut replacement, on stock springs. If you change the OEM springs to higher rate lowering springs, the struts are not going to be able to accomodate you.

Here's (http://www.sr20forum.com/driveline-transmission/170794-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html) an AWESOME link, that you should consider to be a bible on B series chassis.

Even with the AGX/RM combo I have, I still experience body roll, though not as bad. You correct it with FSTB's, RSTB's, and LCA braces, which aim to stiffen up your chassis, as well as replacing any worn/destroyed bushings with new OE, or better than OE bushings. (like prothanes).

Even with the AGX/RM combo I have, I still experience body roll, though not as bad. You correct it with FSTB's, RSTB's, and LCA braces, which aim to stiffen up your chassis, as well as replacing any worn/destroyed bushings with new OE, or better than OE bushings. (like prothanes).

even with road magnets, konis, FSTB, RSTB, and all poly bushings I still get a ton of body roll. sway bars are whats needed to take care of the leaning

thanks for the FYI. ill do more reasearching. do you think my h&r's would be ok with agx's?

Nope. I'd say with H&R's on AGX's, you'd want almost the highest dampening level. Better off just going the CSK route, or changing those springs to something like RM, or Hyperco.