I've searched, and I know there are tons of threads on replacing the throw out bearing. I got my tranny off, along with my 2 busted axles :( , and the throw out bearing does not look noticeably bad. It is pretty nasty, and I think it is from oil seeping through the rear main seal, bust I guess it could be the grease from the bearing.

Anyways, the bearing seems to spin as freely as the new OEM one I bought. My symptoms are 100% TOB bearing, but I was wondering if it would damage my clutch. The clutch has about 20,000 miles on it, and I have heard some slight shatter when the Clutch pedal is depressed, but just recently it is very loud and horrible!

Here are some pictures of the set-up, I was wonding if any of the experts had any opinions. Should I replace the clutch disk? I think the p/p and flywheel look ok.

Really, just wondering for the people who have had a bad Throw out bearing, if it was noticeably bad, and if you had any pictures. The clips were properly installed and still intact, so Im wondering if they just go bad. I think that is the problem, I just don't want to put it all back together and it not be. Could anything else cause chatter on clutch pedal depression only? Thanks so much.


Also- best deal on axles and rear main seal??? Anything besides dealer and main local auto places?

Here are some pics.
I took the bearing out and it seems fine.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2896.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2897.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2899.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2900.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2901.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2903.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2905.jpg

you gotta take care of the main seal leak. and if your clutch has oil on it consider it junk.

I second that. I too am having some TOB sounds and it is very annoying. I plan to soon replace mine aswell. Oh and try contacting Greg V at Gspec.com to get a deal on the parts you need.

For the rear main I would go OEM from the dealer. Axles, go to a local auto parts store and get some decent ones. Usually if you go bottom-of-the-barrel with axles, you regret it later. Also, your entire bell housing looks like it's covered in oil. Definitely rear main - I don't think there's enough grease in the TOB to do that.

$.02

So the problem problem that chewed up that clutch is the TOB?

rear main is perfectly fine....

There's no reason for all that oil to be there. You say your rear main seal is perfectly fine, but that oil came from somewhere, and it's not from the throw out bearing.

New rear main seal: Gspec Performance

Maybe get the new clutch kit from Gspec. It comes with new clutch, PP, alignment tool, transmission seals, and rear main seal. It's $125 or so if I remember correctly. I know you might not need a new PP, but it can't hurt, and it's very cheap.

New axles: www.raxles.com

it doesnt look like the rear main seal is fine. even if it slightly leaks its bad. and by the looks of the transmission housing and also the engine block behind the flywheel it looks like you have a rear main seal leak. replace it. its quick and easy. it could be the rear main seal housing leaking as well. it might need to be taken off and resealed, in that case drop the pans and take it off, clean it up and reseal it and install a new rear main seal also. its just precaution. do it right the first time and you wont have to worry about it.

The rear main is fine. It is dry and so is everything around it. It is the housing that is seeping.

Thanks for the Gspec clutch info

yeah i figured it was one or the other. so you will need to remove the housing and reseal it and might as well put a new seal in while you have it out. its not too bad of a job.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2903.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2905.jpg[/QUOTE]

the bolts in these pics are out.. was this after you had loosened them or what? if you hadn't loosened them then thats where all that recent noise is from grinding a groove into the clutch disc. as for the tob, always replace the tob when you replace the clutch. kinda like an unspoken rule in my book

^ We took those out. They were not like that.

While you are in there, replace the rear main anyways.

What about gear oil leaking from the trans?

^ Thanks for noticing that, I had already loosened them. Trust me, they were not loose!

I bought the car and it had a clutch just put in it, about 20,000 miles ago. Like I said, the signs were classic TOB, but i was just wondering if there was any way to tell if it is bad, besides just the grinding/chattering on disengagement.

The TOB looked fine when we spun it by hand but I bet at engine speeds it is acting up. That is pretty quick. Just a side thought.

Im pretty sure that the oil is leaking from the bottom two bolts that hold on the seal housing. The rest of the housing has a good, intact seal.

My question is the gasket kit I got has two gaskets shaped for the housing, but it doesn't look like they do anything for the bottom. And the FSM shows to apply RTV around the sides and top, but there is no goove for it on the bottom, around where the bottom 2 bolts are. I'd rather use RTV than the gaskets, unless this is one of those cases where you use both. I guess I'll replace it all and then add a bunch of RTV goop around these bottom bolts and snug up the nuts well.

Has anyone done this before that has any suggestions?

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2906.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2907.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/croser2/IMG_2908.jpg

Could it be leaking from the trans instead?

New clutch disc, pp, TO bearing, clips and have the flywheel resurfaced. It is not a rear main leak. Only other place is the tranny input shaft seal that is leaking, noooo way that came from a TO bearing.

. it could be the rear main seal housing leaking as well. it might need to be taken off and resealed, in that case drop the pans and take it off, clean it up and reseal it and install a new rear main seal also. its just precaution. do it right the first time and you wont have to worry about it.


I did this, no need to take off the pans though. That sure sounds like a ton of extra work.

Engine is sealed up great, now the trans is leaking. What the crap.

do you have to drop the upper and lower oil pans to replace the rear main seal??