http://www.timwright.co.uk/gtir/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=461

Some handy parts,very strong and a good price too.I don't work for them BTW but am thinki8ng of getting the conrods and ARP bolts.

Sounds like a good deal, its actually good for all sr20de owners....

If your transmisson messed up on you already heres a good choice. And at about $2200 its not too bad of a deal.
The motor mounts are a good deal as well, I think the GTi-R motor mounts are in the same place as the other DET's

I wonder if they'd offer those in something other than a straight cut for the fwd tranny. I've been saving my nickles for when (if?) JWT gets their tranny to market, but this would be another option.

Originally posted by Calum
I wonder if they'd offer those in something other than a straight cut for the fwd tranny. I've been saving my nickles for when (if?) JWT gets their tranny to market, but this would be another option.

I reread the post and not all the boxes are helical cut. They can be helical cut, I'll have some prices from him shortly....
And he can custom make gear ratios for no extra cost, except for the longer wait. Wouldnt an N1 gear setup for NA, or slightly longer 1,2 for turbo be great?

Explains dog gears and straight cut and the costs of the cuts.
Quote:

"Hi Curtis,

Ok, a dog box (or dog engagement) is the means that it
selects gears. All production car gearboxes have
synchromesh gear engagement, all racing type of
gearboxes (rally, circuit racing, drag racing etc)
have dog engagement whic is more of a quicker, precise
and positive engagement. Synchro's are in place to
slow the gear and match the next selecting gear
without crunching. Dogs replace the synchros in a dog
box to select the gear quicker (as no time is wasted
trying to slow the gear down). I was surprised at how
quick and positive a gear can be selected when i got
my 1/2 dog box in my GTi-R. You would require a short
amount of re-learning to drive one of these properly
on the street without making clunking noises when
selecting gears. Basically you need to match the
speeds of the gears inside the gearbox as there is no
synchro's to do that, that is if you are cruising on
the street normally. If you are drag racing or circuit
racing, you would use the clutch only to take off and
then upshifting you don't need to use the clutch. Pre
loading the gearshifter with your hand is best and in
the time that you back off the accelerator (at or near
redline) and mash the go pedal again, the preloaded
gear shifter would have already selected the next gear
before you can blink. Trust me, this is quick! When i
drive normally on the street, when i normally go from
1st to 2nd i pause in neutral for a second (to help
the gear slow down) before selecting 2nd gear. This i
do using the clutch also.

Also, all production gearboxes have helical cut gears
to make them quiet. Most race gearboxes have straight
cut teeth which gives the whine. You can specify if
you want straight or helical cut gear teeth (i have
helical cut in my 1/2 dog box). The race teams usually
go with straight cut teeth to have as little
transmission loss as possible.

You have the choice of gear ratios and also if you
want straight or helical cut and both are a no cost
option.

A dog gear can be made usually wider than standard as
the synchros have been removed. A larger tooth profile
will mean each tooth is thicker, which means there is
less amount of teeth, which means it is stronger. All
gears and shafts that PAR make are heat treated and
hardened to increase strength.

I hope this explains it for you now.

Ivan Tomic"

What's the conversion for the price of the FWD SR20DE tranny?

4000AUD= approx 2200 USD
Not bad eh?

That's really good.

I'm going for the full synchro gearset and short ratios next year.Still deciding what would be the best for drag and fast road use.

Originally posted by skiddusmarkus
I'm going for the full synchro gearset and short ratios next year.Still deciding what would be the best for drag and fast road use.

I'd say the first two gears are good, third and fourth need to be shorter for road racing, but with these being shorter you might be force to shift an extra time in the drag race. I think you just need to decide what you want to do more, road race or drag race.

You've never ran slicks or driven a high powered SE-R have you? :D I think first gear is way too short with slicks.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
You've never ran slicks or driven a high powered SE-R have you? :D I think first gear is way too short with slicks.

Nope but I'm thinking VE, not DET, so they should be good... I'm almost decided on a VE

Note the turbo forum? :) VE doesn't have tranny breaking power. So first and 2nd should not be left alone on a tranny for a turboed car.

On 15" wheels(205x50x15) and 7500rpm redline,my GTiR will do about 35mph in 1st,65mph in 2nd,99mph in 3rd.Still has factory limiter(another story)so can only guess 135mph 4th and 160mph 5th(need more power to hit that though).
I'd like shorter 3rd and 4th ratios to hit maybe 90mph and 120mph to keep the acceleration going and 5th will either stay as it is or go longer to see if I can get a mad topspeed out of it(after engine work to hike power to around 370ish bhp 350ish lb/ft.)