I spent my off days this weekend putting swapping a tranny and putting coilovers on my NX. Well, the car is sitting on the ground, too low for me but it still rides surprisingly good. I'll shoot pics if it's nicer tomorrow before I raise it to a more respectable height.

The problem is the tranny install. Along with a SR16ve tranny, I installed a new JWT light flywheel, a new JWT pressure plate, an almost new JWT 1 side organic/1 side metal clutch disc (less than 1000 miles), a new Nissan throwout bearing, a new Nissan clutch cable, and 2 new Raxles. I filled the tranny with 4 quarts of Redline Shockproof heavy. I adjusted the clutch pedal so there is about an inch of freeplay when first depressed before the engagement begins. The problem is that the clutch never fully disengages. If I start the car in neutral, it is impossible to put it into gear no matter how hard I push the clutch. If I start it with the tranny in gear, it "creeps" like an automatic with the clutch pedal to the floor. Reverse is impossible unless I turn the motor off first. I tried adjusting the cable all the way tight, but then the clutch is partially engaged and it still won't fully disengage with the pedal pushed to the floor. Once underway, I can only shift smoothly if I rev match exactly, as if I had never pushed the clutch pedal at all. I know the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate only go on one way. Is it possible that I put the throwout bearing on wrong? It only seemed to go on one way that I could see. Is there something I missed? Has this ever happened to anyone? :confused:

this has happened to me. and even though it sounds dumb, the cable was overtightened. after i did a clutch i just adjusted the pedal so it felt right, about an inch of play... strange as it sounds it would not dissengage, but if i lifted on the pedal a little it would... try loosening the cable. or see if you can get it to dissengage by putting the clutch part of the way down...

i'm guessing this isn't where the brass reducer comes into play?

i'm guessing this isn't where the brass reducer comes into play?

haha, i guess not. one of those opposite instances

i'm guessing this isn't where the brass reducer comes into play?
I already have a spacer in there.
this has happened to me. and even though it sounds dumb, the cable was overtightened. after i did a clutch i just adjusted the pedal so it felt right, about an inch of play... strange as it sounds it would not dissengage, but if i lifted on the pedal a little it would... try loosening the cable. or see if you can get it to dissengage by putting the clutch part of the way down...
This confuses me further. It seems I would need more "cable pull" to get the clutch to release, not less.

take the spacer out. it is only needed on some designs of the pressure plate. If you are using a jwt new design pp then you should not have any problems. Also check the clutch fork to see if it has started to crack. I have put in 2 different jwt units, the first one worked fine, the second had adjustment issues. Nothing else was different except the diaphram fingers. One had fat fingers, the other had small ones like stock. The small fingered one worked great, the fat fingered one not so good.

Not sure if others have noticed this. I am currently running a Clutch Specialties unit. Best Clutch Ever. And only $250 for everything.

this has happened to me. and even though it sounds dumb, the cable was overtightened. after i did a clutch i just adjusted the pedal so it felt right, about an inch of play... strange as it sounds it would not dissengage, but if i lifted on the pedal a little it would... try loosening the cable. or see if you can get it to dissengage by putting the clutch part of the way down...

Same thing happened to me once. You may be pushing down too far on the clutch as silly as that sounds.

i'm guessing this isn't where the brass reducer comes into play?

Yes INDEED, it's feels awesome and all these cable mess get solves.

Same thing happened to me once. You may be pushing down too far on the clutch as silly as that sounds.

The reason of this is because the pressure plates and bearing hits the springs/inner core of the clutch, making the clutch lock.

Try the following, i had a similar problem onces.

-Remove the spacer
-put the brass reduction (this makes the rubber stiffen so doesnt collapse with the pressure, it doesnt works like a spacer.)
-Loosen all the cable and try to clutch.
-Try to set your clutch by few turns to the nut by time, then try and repeat this until you get the proper cable tension.

Hope it helps

Just like PuPPiesonAciD said, essentially what's happening is you're pushing the TOB so far in that it causes the fingers to engage with the center of the clutch and the springs - NOT good for your clutch. I bet if you simply don't push quite as far in, you will notice that it will shift just fine for you. However, you may still want to adjust it because when your foot is not on the pedal at all, the clutch may not be completely engaged, causing slippage, and yes, you guessed it, excess wear.

Just like PuPPiesonAciD said, essentially what's happening is you're pushing the TOB so far in that it causes the fingers to engage with the center of the clutch and the springs

If someone still dont get the idea, here is a draw :biggthump

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4364/clutchmh3.jpg

i love drawings!!! lol

The problem is the tranny install. Along with a SR16ve tranny, I installed a new JWT light flywheel, a new JWT pressure plate, an almost new JWT 1 side organic/1 side metal clutch disc (less than 1000 miles), a new Nissan throwout bearing, a new Nissan clutch cable, and 2 new Raxles. I filled the tranny with 4 quarts of Redline Shockproof heavy. I adjusted the clutch pedal so there is about an inch of freeplay when first depressed before the engagement begins. The problem is that the clutch never fully disengages. If I start the car in neutral, it is impossible to put it into gear no matter how hard I push the clutch.

I had the exact same setup even the same oil in a SE-R tranny, my issue was I had tightened the cable WAY too much, and I could not tell because it was catching interally on the cable... You’re going to love that clutch & flywheel... I sure do.

might be bearing spring

It is possible to put a disc on backwards. How much free play to do you have in the lever?

Joe has it fixed.

this has happened to me. and even though it sounds dumb, the cable was overtightened. after i did a clutch i just adjusted the pedal so it felt right, about an inch of play... strange as it sounds it would not dissengage, but if i lifted on the pedal a little it would... try loosening the cable. or see if you can get it to dissengage by putting the clutch part of the way down...
Lifting slightly on the pedal worked!
Same thing happened to me once. You may be pushing down too far on the clutch as silly as that sounds.
Silly but true!
The reason of this is because the pressure plates and bearing hits the springs/inner core of the clutch, making the clutch lock.
Picture explained it
Just like PuPPiesonAciD said, essentially what's happening is you're pushing the TOB so far in that it causes the fingers to engage with the center of the clutch and the springs - NOT good for your clutch. I bet if you simply don't push quite as far in, you will notice that it will shift just fine for you. However, you may still want to adjust it because when your foot is not on the pedal at all, the clutch may not be completely engaged, causing slippage, and yes, you guessed it, excess wear.
Easy engagement from a stop and smoother shifting today via the "clutch not pushed to the floor" method. I am heading to the garage now to remove the spacer and readjust the cable. Thanks guys. :biggthump

Spacer out, it's smooth shifting at all times.:biggthump

But now I have clutch pedal free play that goes half way to the floor. I can live with it if I have too as it's easy to drive like this. It's just a little wierd pushing a long way before anything happens. ANd the cable is adjusted all the way out, so unless there is a way to adjust the pedal in the cabin, the cable is as tight as I can make it without putting some type of spacer back in.

yea man, thats why i made it clear that as strange as it sounds.... i think that is the problem. i was really surprised myself. glad its all good.