forgot about the thread. seems my email isnt working. ive replaced almost everything on my car that is maintenance. the only thing left is the maf, computer, or fuel pump that could be causing this problem. atleast i think. i dont know what to think anymore. i figured id just drive the car till something breaks. if my engine dies ill just swap it cause its pointless to keep dropping all this money into it and not figuring out whats wrong with it. i took it to the dealer and they had it for a whole day and couldnt figure out whats wrong with it. they actually told me i needed a new exhaust. its bone stock. they thought the flex pipe was suppose to be a cat. they didnt know what to do with it. so i lost faith in the dealer. next step is to take it to a diffrent dealer. but after last experience i have low expectations.

btw i bought a used 00-01 maxima maf. same plug, same housing. just put it in and the car ran but when it dropped the idles it would die. im thinking i have to reset the ecm and try it on. im not sure if the computer has to learn it or something. but i think its weird the nissan would make it plug and play seeing they are diffrent engines and the part numbers on the bottom are the same. and a lot of people on ebay sell the aftermarket mafs for the same cars together. so they must be compatible.

wow dude thats horrible about the dealership LOL.


I think I will take it in as soon as I can to see if they can shed some light.

Ive ran my engine like this forever. It gets 33-35mpg on the freeway and I dont feel any problems while driving at any speed or any grades of hills, etc.

Its weird as hell.

i get around 21 to 25. thats why i want to fix it cause i know i should be getting a bit better than what i am. but than again i do drive a bit faster than i should. but i did realize that when i unplug the maf and plug it back in the light goes away for a few miles than comes back. right after i tried the other maf and plugged the old one back in the light went away by next morning. still hasnt come back. i really dont want to spend 400 on a new maf but i have a feeling its the only thing that will fix my problem. if only someone had a working one laying around that could let me borrow it to make sure before spending the cash on a new one.

yeah i hear you on that. What trips me out is that mine runs perfect. The worst Ive gotten mpg wise is like 26 in the city. On all highway its in the 30's for sure. And I have a lead foot. 80 iss like my avg cruising speed LOL.

but anyways. Yeah ive cleared the code many times and it always comes back anywhere from 100-200 miles afterwards.

there is a cheaper option than giving nissan $400 for that maf. Search around. I think a new one is available for like $150 shipped and its an actual nissan part. I too dont want to spend the money to replace it if its not the final solution LOL. I'll take it into the dealer and see what happens first.

jose just swap it with my new maf and see what happens. it cleared my codes. whats funny is that your car runs better than mine , but i think the o2 went bad with the 1st maf, you saw how much fuel it was pouring lol

yeah its weird bro. I gotta fix my brakes this w/e so I dont die and shit LOL

Then Im gonna check the plugs and see i theyre BKR6E, if they are i'll go back to BKR5e and see what happens. I'll set my timing to 15* as well. If none of that does anything, then yea... if you dont mind, Id like to try your MAF out for about a day or 2 just to make sure.

Its crazy the car runs perfect IMO and gets noo less than 32 mpg on the fwy LOL

Well I put the BKR5E's in and set the timing to 15*and had some hope for almost 600 miles.

Now the motherfucker is doing it again. Except now it throws the code in sets of 2. Same code, but in sets of 2. Before it was just 1. The BKR6E's were white as fuck, but I thought with the new BKR5E's gapped at 0.044" I'd be good to go. It seemed like everything was fine for quite a while, but sure as shit, it tosses the code again.

I took it to the dealer and they said...

"well theres no recalls on it and even if theres a TB we still have to diagnose it and figure out whats wrong, so that'll run you $100"

GAY!!!!

So basically, if its the MAF, great, i replace it, problem solved $150 later.
If its the ECU, I have to take it to Nissan pay them the $100 diagnostic charge and then however much it costs for the reflash.....

GAY!!!!!

any other ideas??

The car gets 30mpg +/- 2mpg and I have a lead foot and run shitty gas :D

I just cant see the MAF being bad, the car runs perfect.

b15 mafs are stupid, so is the ecu

run a emanage ultimate and switch to map. that's what I plan on doing

ummm yeah...the car is bone stock. an E-manage probably costs more than the car is worth.

Its a Daily driver man. The only reason I care is for smog purposes, i live in CA. Otherwise, it runs perfect and I can make the light go away LOL

Id just like to know what the problem is...

still throwing codes.

Put in the newer style (known good) MAF from a friend's P11 and it wouldnt rev past 6k.

Leaning towards the ECU now. FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

still throwing codes.

Put in the newer style (known good) MAF from a friend's P11 and it wouldnt rev past 6k.

Leaning towards the ECU now. fu*k!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remember, the P's were made in Japan and the B15's were made here, so if the MAF's are different, then the US probably won't read the right voltage from the newer style MAF.

Im wondering if Ive got dirty/clogged injectors. considering theres no fuel filter, itd be possible I guess... BOOOO B15 LOL

no fuel filter? is that a B15 thing? could you add one?

do you have a yellow b15? lol i seen on at cal poly maybe it was you..looked prity sick

no fuel filter? is that a B15 thing? could you add one?


I thought about it, and I think thats what my problem was: a clogged injector or something cause the light went away by itself and hasnt come back after like 4 or 5 tanks of gas (fingers crossed) LOL


do you have a yellow b15? lol i seen on at cal poly maybe it was you..looked prity sick

Naa its just a graphite/dark gray/charcoal whatever you want to call it. Although its typically dirty as fuck so it looks more like a brown LOL

Ok. So far so good. The MAF finally took a shit on me and I replaced it with the new part # MAF.

This was definitely the cause the car runs greater than ever now.

It cost me about $210 from Justin @ Scottsdale Inifniti/EverythingG20.com
The correct part # is 22680-AD21A


If you keep getting Lean codes and they eventually go away but then the carstarts bucking when you demand power, eventually it will go out and you wont be able to rev and make power.

If your car has over 75k (typically 85-110k is when this happens) youre throwing these codes very frequently ~every 200 miles or so. The MAF is on the way out. Dont be like me and wait til it completely shits (111k miles). Spend the $200, get the updated part and dont risk breaking down.

I will post mpg gains if any. I was getting 30 even with the shit maf. But the car feels great to drive. I will drive about 150 miles tomorrow and let u guys know how it goes

Hey home slice, I've got a B15 SE 5 spd ECU. You likey?

Naa its just a graphite/dark gray/charcoal whatever you want to call it. Although its typically dirty as fu*k so it looks more like a brown LOL

It's Granite dick! ;)

Hey home slice, I've got a B15 SE 5 spd ECU. You likey?

umm if youre throwing it out, sure. Otherwise, I dont really need it :confused:

It's Granite dick! ;)

Granite Dick??? Thats a silly name for a color...

umm if youre throwing it out, sure. Otherwise, I dont really need it :confused:



Granite Dick??? Thats a silly name for a color...

I posted the ECU thing before I read the whole thread, thought if you were looking for one I would get you mine for cheap.

Granite dick, it better the LeMans sunset Orange! :biggthump