rEf1eX 22
12-04-2007, 11:02 PM
so.. being the forgetful procrastinator that I am.
i was a dumb*ss and after replacing some parts behind my driver's side rotor i was tired as hell and decided to call it a night and go to sleep...
so apparenlty in my anxiousness to get inside i forgot to tighten my bolts on the wheels all the way again after lowering the car off the jack stands
so of course while i was driving home FROM work my fu*k'n wheel flew off and one of my wheel studs got stripped and shredded to hell.
:eek: :( :eek:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2275.jpg
i jacked it up and put the wheel back by borrowing a wheel stud bolt from each of the other wheels so i could drive it home and it drove fine.
there were no leaks or anything, but i did bend my front body panel a bit and I needed to replace the wheel stud. I heard you can hammer them in, but i always mess things up when i hammer sh*t :tongue:
the next day i walked to AutoZone and found out they had some cheap bolts and the new wheel studs for about $2.00 a pop
*************************************
i needed to remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor for this project
the removal of the axle isn't necessary, but i was doing something else also, so its off in the picture... i would say leave it on though
there is a hole in the heat shield that you can see the back of the wheel studs from, as shown here:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2280-1.jpg
what i did was put the new stud in from the back of this hole (with the rotor off for the time-being)
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2281.jpg
then with the new stud aligned properly in its new home, i slipped on the rotor and to gimme some extra help with tightening it on, i found a few washers to put onto the new stud in between the rotor and the bolt for it [temporarily]
i screwed the bolt on by hand until "finger-torque" wouldn't make it go anymore and then used the ratchet to get it on tighter.
when the whole axle started to turn i got a big screwdriver:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2276.jpg
to slip in between the "teeth" of the rotor to give me some leverage as i tightened the bolt on and to prevent it from turning:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2277.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2278.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2279.jpg
and tightened until the back end of the wheel stud was flush with the hub
[i would check this every few turns by taking off the rotor and popping my head into the wheel well]
i took off the washers and put things back together.
it worked fine for me, no problems, and i remembered to tighten the little suckers this time.
i guess this application works when replacing a stud on an existing hub, not sure how it would work out if it was a brand new one not attached to the car though
:biggthump
i was a dumb*ss and after replacing some parts behind my driver's side rotor i was tired as hell and decided to call it a night and go to sleep...
so apparenlty in my anxiousness to get inside i forgot to tighten my bolts on the wheels all the way again after lowering the car off the jack stands
so of course while i was driving home FROM work my fu*k'n wheel flew off and one of my wheel studs got stripped and shredded to hell.
:eek: :( :eek:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2275.jpg
i jacked it up and put the wheel back by borrowing a wheel stud bolt from each of the other wheels so i could drive it home and it drove fine.
there were no leaks or anything, but i did bend my front body panel a bit and I needed to replace the wheel stud. I heard you can hammer them in, but i always mess things up when i hammer sh*t :tongue:
the next day i walked to AutoZone and found out they had some cheap bolts and the new wheel studs for about $2.00 a pop
*************************************
i needed to remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor for this project
the removal of the axle isn't necessary, but i was doing something else also, so its off in the picture... i would say leave it on though
there is a hole in the heat shield that you can see the back of the wheel studs from, as shown here:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2280-1.jpg
what i did was put the new stud in from the back of this hole (with the rotor off for the time-being)
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2281.jpg
then with the new stud aligned properly in its new home, i slipped on the rotor and to gimme some extra help with tightening it on, i found a few washers to put onto the new stud in between the rotor and the bolt for it [temporarily]
i screwed the bolt on by hand until "finger-torque" wouldn't make it go anymore and then used the ratchet to get it on tighter.
when the whole axle started to turn i got a big screwdriver:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2276.jpg
to slip in between the "teeth" of the rotor to give me some leverage as i tightened the bolt on and to prevent it from turning:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2277.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2278.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k140/ref1ex/sr20forum/840A2279.jpg
and tightened until the back end of the wheel stud was flush with the hub
[i would check this every few turns by taking off the rotor and popping my head into the wheel well]
i took off the washers and put things back together.
it worked fine for me, no problems, and i remembered to tighten the little suckers this time.
i guess this application works when replacing a stud on an existing hub, not sure how it would work out if it was a brand new one not attached to the car though
:biggthump