Stillen rear sway-bar [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: Stillen rear sway-bar


Pages : [1] 2

martin_g34
07-19-2002, 12:41 PM
Does anyone have this installed on their B14? I took back the rear valance back yesterday and decided to pick one up, I couldn't help myself. I already intalled it but haven't gotten a chance to test it, because my car is still on jackstands. And it will probably stay there until I get my brake hardware kit from the dealer and get around to bleeding the brakes.

Any comments or impressions of this item.

Martin

98sr20ve
07-19-2002, 02:21 PM
Did you get the adjustable one? That is what I have and It is worth the money.

martin_g34
07-19-2002, 02:54 PM
I did get the adjustable one. Where do you have yours set and how far back does it sit? I went ahead and used the two inside holes like the picture on the installation instructions. The bar sits a liitle bit farther back than the beam. Actually, about half of the bar sits under the beam and the other is the part that sits behind the beam.

Martin

98sr20ve
07-19-2002, 03:18 PM
Here is a picture to explain what I did. I started full soft and just tightened it up a bit by moving it back. Before the next autocross I might move it back more to create more oversteer.

ftp://sfoltz10:password@members.cox.net/images/DSC00013.jpg

martin_g34
07-19-2002, 04:38 PM
Thanks Steve, mine is not that far back. But I'm gonna have to experiment with different settings aswell. I'll be going to Willowsprings Raceway next weekend and see how it feels.

So, the farther back the bar is the stiffer the rear will get? Could you elaborate on this please. I'm a bit comfused on how exactly the adjustment help the handling of the car. TIA

98sr20ve
07-19-2002, 05:19 PM
It took me a while to figure out which way was stiffer and softer. This is what I figure. If you could (but you can't, this is for arguments sake) slide the bar all the way to the front of the trailing arms, then imagine when one wheel lifted and the other wheel compressed how much would the bar fight back? Not very much, because with the bar all the way toward the front the endpoints are barely moving. Now if we slid the bar all the way back (but you can't, this is for arguments sake) then when one wheel lifted and the other compressed the bar would fight back a significant amount because the endpoints of the bar are actually being asked to move more. If you don't get this then take a drinking straw and bend it into the shape of a sway bar. Get someone to hold the middle part (or just grab the part like where the two mounting points on the b14 bar) and try and get the ends of the straw to move in opposite directions. The straw will fight back. The more you ask the ends to move the more the bar resists your effort. With all that said, I feel my car is fairly neutral on the road with my 300/200 GC setup and the 2 degree's of negative camber and the ES sway bar bushings up front. On a really tight Autocross I think I will try to make my car over steer a little more to help me around those tight corners. When I was at VIR road course I would NOT have wanted any more over steer because of my novice standing and the nasty Nascar S's scare me due to the tail end wanting to switch to the front (I admit it, but they scare most people). It was kinda fun becuase every time the tail end of my car got light my instructor would YELL "FLOOR IT" to transfer weight to the sliding rear tires. On a road course I would start at a soft setting and then get a feel for how much the front end is plowing. I will admit that I have only moved the bar twice since I installed it.
Probably more then you wanted to know but I was bored waiting on my wife.

jacen99SE
07-19-2002, 06:44 PM
I have been thinking about getting this bar and was going to post and ask who had it and what they thought. Nice timing!

I think I'll get it. That and relocate the battery and buy longer front springs are on my list before the LSD.

jacen99SE
07-19-2002, 07:00 PM
I have been thinking about getting this bar and was going to post and ask who had it and what they thought. Nice timing!

I think I'll get it. That and relocate the battery and buy longer front springs are on my list before the LSD.

[oops; double post]

jacen99SE
07-22-2002, 12:04 PM
So where did you guys buy it and how much did you pay? A PM response is fine if you do not want to post it.

martin_g34
07-23-2002, 09:27 PM
I just got back from driving my car and I noticed that the rear of the car is making a knocking noise when I hit a bump. It sounds like the bar might be hitting the beam. Didiyou notice this with yours. I'm gonna try to scoot the bar back so its not so close to the beam. I hope thats the problem.

Martin

98sr20ve
07-23-2002, 09:38 PM
Originally posted by martin_g34
I just got back from driving my car and I noticed that the rear of the car is making a knocking noise when I hit a bump. It sounds like the bar might be hitting the beam. Didiyou notice this with yours. I'm gonna try to scoot the bar back so its not so close to the beam. I hope thats the problem.

Martin

I put a spacer (block of something) between the bar and the rear axle to be sure it wasn't to close when I tightened it down. Never made a sound on my car.

martin_g34
07-23-2002, 09:44 PM
Now, bear with me here. Are you talking about the amount of space between the bottom of the beam and the bar or the back of the beam and the bar? Like I said before, half of my bar is sitting under the beam, you think this is the probelm?

98sr20ve
07-23-2002, 10:04 PM
I don't think it is where the bar is adjusted to. I think it is how close the bar is to the bottom of the axle/U shaped beam. Take a ruler or a paint stir stick and place them between the beam and the bar before tighting it down. I can't remember how much space I have but it was real close until I put the something in there to prevent it from touching. Remove the item before you drive. It will not be hard just loosen everything a little and jam the stick in gap. Before you do all this you may want to insure that your car is on a very level surface using a water level and some vinyl tiles to even out the floor before you tighten the bar down. You my garage was off over 1/2 inch and it looked level.

jacen99SE
07-24-2002, 04:07 PM
Is installation just bolting on the 4 brackets? That sounds pretty easy. Was it?

98sr20ve
07-24-2002, 04:08 PM
It was not that hard. It helps to have two people and a level floor.

martin_g34
07-25-2002, 01:02 PM
Thanks for the tips man. I moved the bar about an inch towards the back and made sure that I was pushing down on it while I tightened the clamps. Took the car out for a spin and the noise was gone, WOHOO! Now all I have to do is give it a hardcore test on the track and let you know my impressions. But as of right now I am impressed with the improvement.

jacen99SE
09-23-2002, 09:23 AM
I installed mine yesterday, along with ES sway bar bushings for the front. The car has 350/300 springs, and in limited street testing it was amazing. The car is finally neutral. I can't wait to autocross again (sometime :rolleyes: )

:D :D :D

98sr20ve
09-23-2002, 09:59 AM
I have finally gotten to autocross mine in the full rearward position with my 300/200's. I like it a lot. For the faster roadcourse stuff I would definately move it forward. I also found that 2 degrees negative camber really helps the front stick (go figure). This is a great mod for the B14-15

jacen99SE
09-23-2002, 02:14 PM
Mine is set one the 2 inner holes, which I believe is the softest setting. One inner and one outer would be next, and both outer holes would be the stiffest. Right?

98sr20ve
09-23-2002, 02:46 PM
Originally posted by jacen99SE
Mine is set one the 2 inner holes, which I believe is the softest setting. One inner and one outer would be next, and both outer holes would be the stiffest. Right?

I think it is the other way. The longer the bar arms/ends the more leverage the suspension has to twist it and therefore the easier it is to move the bar. I have mine on the longer holes so maybe I will thighten it up a little by moving mine to the inside holes.