This is for a Classic SE-R. I've searched and read through all the threads on this site. I've never done a starter on a Classic before.

I think the only thing that had to be removed was the intake, but fortunately the car has an open intake so it's less bulky than the stock intake. I'll make sure to remove the battery completely so I don't zap myself. Otherwise it looks pretty simple. A couple of connectors and bolts. Probably the hardest part will be trying to break the bolts loose and prying the starter loose.

Any tips before I start working?

It's easier if you have 2 people. One to go under the car and swap the starter, and one on top to remove the bolts and put the bolts back in the new starter. I've always had a hard time getting the bolts started when installing the new starter by myself.

It'd be nice to have someone hold the starter in place while you thread the bolts in. Or vice versa.

Otherwise, its pretty straight forward.

Edit: wow, Blair beat me by a lot. That's what I get for having 18 windows open on the forums LOL

Thanks for the tip, guys.

I was going to take the starter off and then bring it to the store for a replacement because I saw that there was 2 different starters available for the car.

I can't trust the parts guy to give me the right one.

I read that it's easy to strip the bolts if nobody is holding the starter from the bottom so I'll try to be extra careful.

Thanks again for the help.

It would be best to find an oem starter used from a junkyard. Then there's the option of the dealer. Most people are gonna tell you that aftermarket starters usually fail quickly. Even though you get a replacement, who wants to go through the headache of swapping starters numerous times? Just my .02

I wouldn't go through all that trouble without putting in a OEM unit.
I just did mine the other day. I don't see how you can thread those bolts in without two people.

Undo the bolts from up top, but the grunt work is down below the car. Drop the starter out from under the engine. There is no need to remove the intake manifold. If you've got the brace that supports the intake manifold to the engine block, that will have to be loosened or removed completely from below the car (depends how much cursing you want during the install) before the starter will come out or go back in.

I was going to take the starter off and then bring it to the store for a replacement because I saw that there was 2 different starters available for the car.

I can't trust the parts guy to give me the right one.



There's 2 manufacturers, Hitachi and Mitsubishi. They are interchangeable. I can't remember which is which, but one is known for "starter squeal" I've used both with no problems.

There's 2 manufacturers, Hitachi and Mitsubishi. They are interchangeable. I can't remember which is which, but one is known for "starter squeal" I've used both with no problems.

I remember reading somewhere about the squealing. Is it during start up or immediately after start up?

Because on this car, it doesn't squeal when cranking, but right when the car starts up, it squeals for about 1/2 second or so.

I wouldn't go through all that trouble without putting in a OEM unit.

Usually I would, but I don't think I want to spend OEM money for this car because it's questionable if the motor will outlast the starter.

I remember reading somewhere about the squealing. Is it during start up or immediately after start up?

Because on this car, it doesn't squeal when cranking, but right when the car starts up, it squeals for about 1/2 second or so.


Immediatly after, it squeals as the pinion retracts. It sounds like you have the typical squeal. It doesn't actually hurt anything, but it's annoying.

Immediatly after, it squeals as the pinion retracts. It sounds like you have the typical squeal. It doesn't actually hurt anything, but it's annoying.

I think that's exactly it. The squeal itself was tolerable, but now the starter just stopped turning the flywheel completely.

If you leave the car in gear and crank (no clutch interlock relay) the car will lurch forward once, and then the starter just freewheels. It sounds to me like the starter is not catching on the flywheel.

The hitachi staters are know to squeal or in my case moan and grown!! My stater has been making the noise for a year now I'll just change it when I do my bluebird swap... and yes it does help to have two people to put the stater in!!!:cool:

Ps put antiseez on those bolt before instal it helps for the next time you take the stater out!!!!

I hate that noise -- it sounds like a goose honk!

Ps put antiseez on those bolt before instal it helps for the next time you take the stater out!!!!

I love antiseize.

I'm going to get a FSM CD from the dealer and torque it to specs as well.

i was able to take the starter out in my b14 from the top within 20 mins. by myself. really not that bad especially since you have an open filter. the stock airbox kinda gets in the way.

Finally found the starter under the intake manifold towards the passenger side. What a terrible place to put the starter.

Thank you very much to all those who responded. I got a Mitsubishi replacement starter and the motor, after a few minutes of cranking to clear flooding, started right up and runs fine afterwards. Plus there's no annoying starter squeal with the old Hitachi.

Thanks again for all the help.