I searched and could find some answers. I was wondering how hard it was to install, and if its a good mod? Everything that i have read seems pretty good but I was just wondering.

it can be a PITA. If you are planning on doing it you might as well make (or buy) yourself an EGR blockoff kit, because once you move the manifold back that 1/4" or so that the spacer moves it back, the egr tube is realllly really hard to get back on properly.

I already have the nisport egr block off plates installed, oh and id be installing this on a high port motor.

ok so you've taken care of one of the steps.
I'll tell you this, the install is much much easier when the engine is out :D thats how I did it, but its not impossible. you should not have too much trouble.

what are somethings i should look out for? any hard to reach bolts what angle so go about doing this, do i have to come from under the car?

I beleive that you do have to remove the oil filter block (3 bolts), and make sure you have new orings for that.

that sucks,

You don't need to remove the oil filter housing.

C

oh ok, that might have been a lowport. I Was doing a search for thermoblock to see if I could find you a writeup and I saw that in a thread from skeeter149, but I think he has a LP not a HP.

You can remove the runner part of the manifold, it may need some encouragement from a pry bar, i just had mine off to be painted. Some of the bolts are a PIA, but i managed to take it off with out have to remove any thing that wasn't attached to it...just start from the top down...good luck

Ok yeah, I read the part about the lowport because it blocks some bolts on the pass side. So just take the top half of the manifold off first then the part that attaches to the block? Is there any coolant lines that i have to watch out for? I don't want anything getting into the block when i take it off.

yeah you have to remove the oil filter housing on a lowport cause that is how i did it.. me and scotty did it on his car with the engine in and god it was a pain in the ass to like up the egr.. 7 hours later and we still didnt get it lined up. i ended up throwing a block of kit i had laying around to get it done.. but other then that the installment was not to bad at all!! just make sure you put the longer studs in there correct slots

On outlaw they say it come's with instructions on how to install it but, I'm just trying to get personal experience. So I'd imagine that the instructions say which bolts to put where?

Yeah they do give instructions on the install. The only problems i really had since i already had no EGR was since it was a high port engine the plenum and throttle body spacer make a need for a longer link that connects where the throttle wire connects and the actual throttle body. To avoid having to fabricate a new piece you have to just bend the bar that stops the throttle when it is closed. It is a little late so that may have been confusing so if you need a picture to explain where i am talking about just let me know.

pic's would be awesome!

Alright i will try and borrow my room mates camera and get you a picture. Also with the spacers comes a bypass for the coolant in the throttle body. That is very straight forward installation. Some choose not to some do. In an article in se-r.net i recall they did it and the only ill effects were in the cold weather the car would stumble a little until the car warmed up. I have had this happen a few times but I don't want to give false information so i cant honestly say that was the cause. The spacers really do help things keep cool especially with a cold air intake. Even after a long drive of getting on it i can grab the intake manifold and it will only be warm. Another thing i am not sure if it is related or not but after i installed the spacers the exhaust tone seemed to get a little quieter and tolerable on the highway.

Thanks guys you have helped a lot! One more question, how long did it take you to install? I'm pretty mechanicly inclined so im not thinking its gonna be to hard i'm just wondering what time frame i'm looking at.

Jen was correct.. The EGR pipe is nearly impossible to reinstall after the thermal kit is installed. We gave up after 3 hrs of trying different things..
But the actual install should take probably 4-6 hrs to complete (without food & beer breaks), depending on how much stuff you decide to clean (including the inside of the intake mani itself). The only coolant lines encountered are on the bottom of the Throttle body and will not be touched unless you are doing the by-pass part of the kit (I didnt).

1. You will just remove only the top half of the intake mani & remove everything attached to it. You will need to remove some of the studs to get the mani out. Now after doing this once, I would remove as many studs as possible first since all studs will be replaced (this is easy using 2 stud nuts together). Also, it will help to have someone to help take off & reinstall the intake mani for alignment & lifting ease. Do not tear/bend up your existing mani gaskets.
NOTE: While removed and access is easier, this is a good time to remove and clean the IACV (dont forget to get a new gasket), replace temperature sensor and replace old vacuum hoses (3 PCV vacuum hoses on front side of the mani, the brake booster hose on the rear of the intake mani, vacuum tree hoses and egr/bpt hoses if you are trying to keep the egr stuff). I also cleaned the throttle chamber & butterfly, and cleaned the inside of the Intake mani. We used 3 full spray cans of throttle cleaner.

2. Installing the kit is easy. You follow the instructions for the gasket & spacer placement (confusing instructions; just reread 4 times) & installing the new studs. Its easier to install only a few studs on the block side before reinstalling the intake mani. Then install the remaining studs after the intake mani & spacers are in place. We used thin dabs of hi-temp RTV silicon to hold the gaskets & spacers in place during this step. Once all of the studs are installed, just torq the mani down per the instruction sheet.

3. After reinstalling everything for the intake mani top half, then install the throttle spacer. Remove the 4 throttle bolts. I did not use the by-pass kit due to my colder climate, so I simply inserted the spacer with gasket using the new longer bolts (the old ones will work too). If you are doing the by-pass install, it is done before installing the throttle spacer. Finally, make sure that the throttle butterfly closes completely after hooking up the linkages. Connect your intake pipe, MAF and filter. Start the car and take for a short ride. You may need to reset your idle & timing depending on items cleaned. Done.

This was easy (4 of 10) but time consuming.

actually scotty when you torq down the bolts you have to follow the order on the instructions they give you because they give you torq numbers.. dont know if they are the same as the fsm but i would assume it would be diffrent because of the spacers....

Corrected.. Thanks Jen

Didnt remember that part. I think it was after midnight when we did that part! ;)