The best time I got was 15.6 two thursdays ago. And my oil smells like gas, and my exhaust smells like its running rich. It doesnt smoke, I've repalced cap/rotor/wires/plugs/o2 sensor... I'm thinking of putting my 93 SE-R injectors in it to see if that helps. Any ideas guys? I'm going to check my timing and my compression tommorow. And I'm going to run some sea foam thorugh the intake to try to get rid of some of the carbon deposits.

~Ryan:confused:

if youre oil smells like gas, it may be your piston rings, though massivly leaky injectors could cause it too, does it have trouble starting?

Originally posted by HotshtSR20
if youre oil smells like gas, it may be your piston rings, though massivly leaky injectors could cause it too, does it have trouble starting?

No trouble starting, and it doesn't smoke at all.:confused:
~Ryan

Originally posted by SENTRASER
And I'm going to run some sea foam thorugh the intake to try to get rid of some of the carbon deposits.

what is this sea foam you speak of?

What would you change, seal wise, on the injectors? I have a jdm motor, s3, jwt ecu. My car runs a bit rich, and I have a bit of trouble starting in the cold and/or damp weather. I've changed everything, cap, rotor, coil, o2, etc. It starts but runs like shit for a minute. The plugs are fine, light grey deposits, gapped perfect. I know the the ecu makes the car run pig rich but I'm wondering if the rings could be the culprit. Could an afc or fuel pressure reg. rememedy this? No smoke, ever. Not at start-up, driving or down shifting.

Could I bore the MAF a bit, lean it out a little that way?

I've seen 2 se-r's start runnin real rich and both of them turned out to have bad fpr's.

Originally posted by james vick
I've seen 2 se-r's start runnin real rich and both of them turned out to have bad fpr's.

Hey James!!! I haven't talked to you in a while! How you been? I herd you dont work for boostfactor anymore. Is there a way to test the fuel pressure regualtor?

Come on MSN somtime dude!
~Ryan;)
Originally posted by Scud

what is this sea foam you speak of?

Its some stuff you can buy at Autozone, and I'm sure some other places. Its like a cleaner stuff you can add to your gas, and your oil and a sleu of other things.

each injector has 2 o-rings on it, mine were leaking, caused a stumbling idle, and a black poof first time i gave it heavy throttle after i started it.

hey ryan, do a compression test yet?

Originally posted by HotshtSR20
each injector has 2 o-rings on it, mine were leaking, caused a stumbling idle, and a black poof first time i gave it heavy throttle after i started it.

hey ryan, do a compression test yet?

No, I did not do a compression test yet, I prolly will be tonight though. I have to pull my $50 Sentra XE off the frame machine. I also need to do brake work. Anyway....anyone know how to check to see if the FPR is working right?

~Ryan

some sort of fuel pressure guage should do it, should be at 3 bar, or ~44 psi

Originally posted by HotshtSR20
some sort of fuel pressure guage should do it, should be at 3 bar, or ~44 psi

THanks, I'll try that...

~Ryan:)

Hey guys, two points, one on topic one off... (but it won't let me start a new topic, so my apologies)

A friend of mine is getting a 92, Pulsar Hatch, 2.0L for his birthday (from his parents). I believe it has an SR20DE in it. He's been helping me out heaps with upgrading, maintaining and cleaning my Honda S2000 semi-race car, so I want to do something pretty big for him in appreciation. I've set my budget for his birthday present at $250 USD.

The problem is, while I can pull apart and redesign the F20C engine (Honda S2k) with my eyes closed, I know jack all about the SR20DE engine.

My questions are:

1) Does the SR20DE run rich or lean? Does anyone know the AFR?

2) (Off topic) Does anyone know if the dizzy on the SR20DE can be rotated to advance or retard timing?

What I get him depends on the answer to these questions. If the engine runs lean, I really can't give him any of the I/E/H mods, otherwise it is possible that the engine will detonate, if the fuel pump/injectors cannot keep up with the extra air available from say a cold air intake.

My thoughts at the moment, without knowing anything about SR20DEs is that maybe a thinner head gasket and an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator will allow us to get higher compression on the engine, and use the dizzy and the FPR to adjust timing and AFR.

Am I way off target here?

Thanks.

Originally posted by Sunder


My questions are:

1) Does the SR20DE run rich or lean? Does anyone know the AFR?

2) (Off topic) Does anyone know if the dizzy on the SR20DE can be rotated to advance or retard timing?

What I get him depends on the answer to these questions. If the engine runs lean, I really can't give him any of the I/E/H mods, otherwise it is possible that the engine will detonate, if the fuel pump/injectors cannot keep up with the extra air available from say a cold air intake.

My thoughts at the moment, without knowing anything about SR20DEs is that maybe a thinner head gasket and an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator will allow us to get higher compression on the engine, and use the dizzy and the FPR to adjust timing and AFR.

Am I way off target here?

Thanks.

I can answer some of your questions. Yes, the distributor can easily be advanced/retarded by loosening its two bolts and rotating in the appropriate direction.Upwards of 17 - 19 for most NA applications. If he has a JWT ECU then it must be set at 15 degrees.

The engine is set to run at somewhere near the perfect stoich balance during normal driving and I believe it goes rich at wide open throttle. There is no problem putting on any bolt-ons as the stock ECU/injectors can compensate for over 200hp without any problems. It may take a little driving time for the computer to adapt to the changes though.

Steve

Thanks Steve,

That helps me a lot, but also makes me realise that I am heading the wrong direction for upgrades. Most hondas run quite rich, and so having the high quality fuel that we do have here in Australia (98 Octane), you can usually get good cheap gains simply by leaning the fuel out a bit. It seems this doesn't apply to Nissans.

The reason I was concerned about leaning out, was because a friend of mine put a cold air intake and a 2" exhaust system on his '87 pulsar, and the fuel pressure regulator couldn't put out enough fuel to keep the car from detonating. He had to get a new FPR and make it a bit richer. Admittedly, it wasn't an SR20DE, but it was still a Pulsar.

If I can then broaden the question, to say, if you only had $250 or so to spend on a stock SR20DE, what would you spend it on? Thanks again.

Ken.

Originally posted by Sunder
Thanks Steve,

That helps me a lot, but also makes me realise that I am heading the wrong direction for upgrades. Most hondas run quite rich, and so having the high quality fuel that we do have here in Australia (98 Octane), you can usually get good cheap gains simply by leaning the fuel out a bit. It seems this doesn't apply to Nissans.

The reason I was concerned about leaning out, was because a friend of mine put a cold air intake and a 2" exhaust system on his '87 pulsar, and the fuel pressure regulator couldn't put out enough fuel to keep the car from detonating. He had to get a new FPR and make it a bit richer. Admittedly, it wasn't an SR20DE, but it was still a Pulsar.

If I can then broaden the question, to say, if you only had $250 or so to spend on a stock SR20DE, what would you spend it on? Thanks again.

Ken.

I would say get an ehxuast and an intake, a header would be more than $250...and advance the timing to between 17 and 19 degrees. Hope this helps, oh yeh, and you shouldn't get more than 2.25" exhaust.

~Ryan

Originally posted by Sunder

If I can then broaden the question, to say, if you only had $250 or so to spend on a stock SR20DE, what would you spend it on? Thanks again.

Ken.

Well $250 rules out the two biggest bolt-on power gainers: cams and a header (unless you get a used one). The next biggest bang for the buck is an intake. I think they go for around $150. With the $100 leftover, there's not much you can get related to horsepower. Exhausts won't really do anything at this point, underdrive pullies start at around $200 for a crank/water pump combo, ECU goes for around $500, headers go for $300 - $450 cams are around $500, lightened flywheels are around $350, etc. Maybe go with stainless steel brake lines i.e. Goodrich.

Steve

Originally posted by thepep


Well $250 rules out the two biggest bolt-on power gainers: cams and a header (unless you get a used one). The next biggest bang for the buck is an intake. I think they go for around $150. With the $100 leftover, there's not much you can get related to horsepower. Exhausts won't really do anything at this point, underdrive pullies start at around $200 for a crank/water pump combo, ECU goes for around $500, headers go for $300 - $450 cams are around $500, lightened flywheels are around $350, etc. Maybe go with stainless steel brake lines i.e. Goodrich.

Steve

Well, you could get a warm air intake, which is just a MAF adaptor and a cone filter off www.ebay.com, then get an exhaust. Or you could get a CAI and have $100 or so left over and get some brake lines...possibly some AXXIS metal master brake pads? And definalty take the time do the advanced timing, you may even be able to run higher than 19* since you have 98 octane gas there. Not sure what type of gains it would net you.

~RYan

Thanks for your advice guys. I think I know what I can get him that will give him a little gain now, but a lot more potential when he gets out of school, into a job and can start buying his own upgrades

I might buy him a 2" muffler, that sets me back about $150. It'll give him some gains now, and a pretty goof sound, but then later on, he can upgrade all the piping to 2" mandrel bent.

I'll also give him a K&N Rampod style filter. That'll set me back about $50. I'll then probably give him a gift certificate for a dyno tune for someone to advance his timing. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it, since I've never rotated a dizzy to advance timing. :) Direct injection Hondas, gotta love them.

Originally posted by Sunder
Thanks for your advice guys. I think I know what I can get him that will give him a little gain now, but a lot more potential when he gets out of school, into a job and can start buying his own upgrades

I might buy him a 2" muffler, that sets me back about $150. It'll give him some gains now, and a pretty goof sound, but then later on, he can upgrade all the piping to 2" mandrel bent.

I'll also give him a K&N Rampod style filter. That'll set me back about $50. I'll then probably give him a gift certificate for a dyno tune for someone to advance his timing. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it, since I've never rotated a dizzy to advance timing. :) Direct injection Hondas, gotta love them.

Truthfully, you wont see much gains by putting a mufler on it untill you start throwing cams and headers and such at it...a CAI is BY FAR the best mod you can do at this point IMHO...