Guys i need some serious help please

About a month ago I regrounded my Maf in my b13. Well lets just say that didnt go well. I regrounded the wrong wire, ie. the Big ol orange wire. Well that fried my ecu. Go a new ecu car has been fine for since i had done that. Car didnt run more then 15 seconds. Blew the 25amp Fusible link beside the battery.


Now as of yesterday. I was going for my daily Starbucks Frap. Some lady in her suv acts like she wants to be a B*tch and passes me before my exit up ahead. So i floored the car, (auto) car starts to down shift then completly dies. No radio, dash light, turnsignals, HAVAC, cig lighter, cruse, defroster, anything that works on the Ignition Switch. Well i pull off to the side of the road, Pop the hood, rechecked my ground. It looks ok under the hood, Pop the fusebox open beside the battery the fusible link beside the one that blew when i fried the ecu was blown (30 amp green one), so i swap it with one that controls the power windows (cause this car doesnt have PWs) Tried starting the car, Car turns over and runs for second and then shuts off. Look back under the hood and that fusible link just poped again, I try again same thing. Well today i had it towed back to my house, went to advance and got a fusible link and started messing around with it some more. W/ all the fuse's out of the box under the dash that are labled ign removed I try again. Same thing keeps blowing the fuseable link. Removed all but the 25 amp and added a new fusible link to the one beside it, same damn ****. Unhooked the power suply plug on the alt, same thing.

I out ideas Can anyone help me out?

bump*

still no luck

I am having the same problem, let me know what you find. I am in the process of changing my ecu and seeing if that helps. I think I fried it or shorted it some how.

well guys recheck your grounds with the battery disconnected then double check, now replace your fusible links (hard to fine at a dealer and auto zone) but go to any junk yard and youll fine one in any nissan. not just b13,b14, there in just about every nissan, and then connect the battery. turn car on it should be fine.
i put in a grounding kit in and the grounding cable that i connected to the alternator was also touching the positive terminal, they are just so close. it was fine for a while then with the car running the vibrations made it move again so i just tightened it up and caped it with some sealant i found at a hobby shop. problem solved.

similar but hope it helps.
heres the link to my post with my problem.
http://www.sr20forum.com/audio-electronic-accessories/221495-electrical-issue-please-help-i-have-no-clue.html

thing is i do keep replacing it only its blowing every 3 seconds

Me unhooking the chargeing side leads me to beleave its on the ignation side

Engine wont start. As soon as i put the key into the ACC it blows the fusible link w/ in 3 seconds. Ive removed the alty harness off the alty, removed the engine harness from the 2ndary harness. every single relay except the ecu and ecu relay is removed, as with every single fuse in the car. Only thing that i know that might still be getting power is the starter and maybe the ign switch. Ive went through about $30 in fuseible links.

update....

Here is the wire schematic......

The fuse in question is higlighted red everything in green is disconnected. With all of this unpluged its still blowing it. Only thing i can think of is (e46) coming of the ignition switch [2 position on the ignition w/ wire colors W/L] going to a fuse box but all the fuses for the fuse box is removed including relays.
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