ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGER NISSAN 200SX
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This is a complete kit to add a new electric turbo supercharger to you car’s intake system. This supercharger delivers up to 240 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of airflow when activated! It delivers 150 CFM of pressure under no load. Why spend thousands in a conventional turbo or supercharger when you can have similar gains for much much less money and keep your factory warrany.

Can be installed or uninstalled in less than an hour so no worries when you decide to sell your car or when your lease is up.

This kit can be used with almost any 3" intake system/aftermarket air filter or stock air box, an aftermarket intake is recommended. It will extend your intake by about 4" so make sure there aren't any clearance problems. You can turn the supercharger on and off with a flip of a switch from inside your car.

Included in the kit :
* Electric Turbo Supercharger Blower

* Activation switch (to control the Electric Turbo Supercharger)

* Electric Wiring

* Hose Clamps

* Instructions


http://ebay0.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_5e45c261531d6f3e57256bd74346a764/i-1.JPG

You're joking, right?

I hope so, that thing has been around the forums before.

Brent

Damn, dude. Read the archives on the various sites before posting stupid crap like this.

Archives exist for a reason:research. Do some, will ya?

I've got a bridge to sell you that will make as much hp as that thing. :)

Let's do some maths.

2.0L engine, each cylinder requiring 500cc of air per fill, two cylinders are filling at any particular revolution. (The others are compressing) That means 1000cc of air required per revolution. Let's convert that to 1 litre of air

Let's take idle speed of 1000rpm, for sake of ease of calculation, and 7000rpm for redline.

At 1000rpm, you need 1L x 1000 revs of air or 1000L of Air. That's 1 Cubic metre of air. Logically, at 7000rpm, you need 7 cubic metres.

There are 35 cubic feet per cubic metre. That means your device pumping at 150cfm, will provide positive pressure below 4000 odd rpm, no pressure at 4000, and impede air flow above 4000rpm. In fact, at 7000rpm, the engine is being starved of air, because the blade are impeding the air flow.

At 12 Volts, a 30cfm fan still takes about 2 watts to power. The power requirement rises exponentially, because resistance and momentum of blade gets higher as air pressure differential gets higher. So you're probably looking at a 60-70 odd watts drain from your battery, this in turn affects your alternator, further dragging down your power.

In other words, you are paying for the priveledge of *maybe* raising very mildly, low to mid end power at the very expensive cost of high end power.

I seriously think people selling these should be done for false advertising, unless they can prove on independant tests, that it does what they claim. People should complain to eBay about their services being used for fraud.

thanx for the coments and sorry that some of you got pissed cause i just asked a question.................. i guess you guys know everything and nobody ever gave an opinion on something you asked
peace:mad:

If someone bought one of these and wants proof it doesn't work, I'd be happy to dyno one of these and publish it :) You pay for the shipping to me, and I'll pay for the shipping back to you.

I'm actually curious if it even gives low end power, as theory says it should. Hey, you never know, if it does, maybe you can put it in for daily driving (when you rarely go over 4000rpm) and take it back out again for track days. After all it only takes a few minutes to install. (At least so says the blurb)

It's hard for us seasoned veterans who have seen this Tornado type of thing so many times to be nice to those who don't have a friggin clue about it. I apologize for the others' tones SEfrnR.

The thing that gets me is "It delivers 150 CFM of pressure under no load." Why would I want more airflow at no load? More airflow equal more fuel and therefore it will use more fuel at idle, and probably be hard to keep at a low idle with all that extra air being pushed in. Who wants to waste more fuel at idle? Not me :)

thanx guys i knew this couldnt be real but i was just asking what you guys thought of it....
thanx again

As I said, do some research. That was my beef.

This thing was dynoed by Chris Pinthong at SR20Development a couple of years ago. It's in the old SE-R mailing list archives.

http://mirror.shipstore.com/ss/html/ATT/ATT17314.html

hahahahahaha....

I have seen one that is like $150 and it flows 600cfms

Does it flow 600cfm, or does it move 600cfm against zero pressure differential? There's a big difference. A 3" pipe can flow 600cfm with enough pressure differential :)

Originally posted by SEfknR
thanx for the coments and sorry that some of you got pissed cause i just asked a question.................. i guess you guys know everything and nobody ever gave an opinion on something you asked
peace:mad:

Relax. Yes, we are funnin' with you a bit, and even at a bit of your expense. I don't think anyone was out to ridicule (sp?) you. Of course that's hard to tell from just reading it, so you'll have to trust me. ;)

Just smile and say "DOH" and we can all laugh together. We're good folks. Really. :)

the ad said that a t3 flows 660 cfm and this thing was flowing 600cfm If i thoght it was true for 150$ i could buy 4 of them and have the world's fastest quad turbo set up lol:rolleyes:

I'm curious to see what this thing did on the dyno. I'll have to look that up.
That link makes me think they stole the marine turbo thing and are selling it for 2xs the price...lol.

I suggest you guys check this out. Dyno charts are included. The version of the electric supercharger discussed above is only 1 cheap version of an idea that actually holds potential. Below is a link to what I feel is a working model of the electric intake supercharger. Check out their specs/math and post your ideas. Check out the performance gaurantee. They will pay for your dyno and give you full refund of your car does not gain HP. This is a company putting their money where their mouth is. Unfortunately it does have some draw backs with compatibility with the SER, but that is also posted on the website. Major differences from the model above include air moved, engament points of the device (only engaged at full throttle), and power consumption (50 amp draw from a sytem that can take 90 amp draw. E.G will not hurt your alternator).

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/autoprod.htm

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/erampage.htm?AOLHelp=979008765.802.301.1&ServerName=www.electricsupercharger.com

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/eramqa.htm?AOLHelp=979008765.802.301.1&ServerName=www.electricsupercharger.com

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/Guarantee.htm?AOLHelp=979008765.802.301.1&ServerName=www.electricsupercharger.com

Well, the numbers seem kosher... A fan that moved that much air would require about 700watts, and 750CFM would certainly provide significant positive air pressure to the intake valve.

I'm tempted to give it a try, especially if their guarentee is real. Do you know anyone who has used it and can testify for it?

Dont know anyone that has tried it, but I'm definately tempted to test it out. Cant hurt if they back it up with a gauranteed refund. I have a going bet with a buddy of mine, I think it will work and he doesnt, so I'll post after I test it out at the dyno.