on nico, no one really responds to my threads lol, so im hoping somewhere specific SR20 can...

so sit down snuggle in for a long one, your ***** be reading a bit.

i have had a 0% success rate on this car.

here is my setup

Redtop SR
Stock injectors/manifold/turbo
Starion FMIC
custom charge piping
Recirc Bov
Adjustable FPR
nissan Pathfinder (VG30DE) fuel pump
stock rad
brand new MLS h/g
ARP head studs
KA24E MAFS
ECU with a daughter board, (daughter board removed)

heres the story
i put the motor in the car and it fired right up, however i couldnt boost past 5 psi without it bogging out puking black smoke, and back firing. i knew the symptoms, they told me either MAFS or boost leak, so after changing and re doing all my charge piping, over and over, testing it with smoke and a boost leak tester, finding nothing, i knew it wasnt a boost leak, so i went to the local bone yard, and got about 10 different MAFS from ka24e's tried each and every one of them, no change.

Let me give a bit of background on this engine, it was previously in my buddys car, it was running 17psi with bigger injectors, hks cams, gt2871r and a z32 mafs. He had it tuned with a daughter board and a SAFC. ive been told multiple times that if i were to remove both of those items, the ECU would go back to stock tune.

So i removed both, i still had the same problem of running sickly rich. it was gross, i couldnt drive the car it stunk like gas so much. i started testing sensors, found out my cts was done. leaving the partsource (our version of autozone) and my transmission blew , anyway got that changed, and changed the CTS, no change.

chatted with dattodude on nico, we went over everything we could think of. pulled out the fuel pressure gauge, and put the pathy fuel pump in, and fired it up, FINALLY A BREAKTHROUGH (im aware of the caps), i could boost all the way up to 12 psi, but it would sound like a machine gun was going off out the exhaust. whatever. then it started to flood, ALL the time, i couldnt shut it down, and re-start without pulling the fuel pump fuse. so i changed the injector o-rings. then i blew them again, checked the fuel pressure, and it was at 62. i said eff it and left it alone for the winter.

so last week i tore into it again after getting more o-rings, and an adjustable FPR. well i put everything in and fired it up, i turned the fuel pressure down to the stock 42.5 and drove it, well it boosts up to 7 psi now, but it feels like its got no power, and my afr gauge (although narrowband) tells me rich when cruising, lean when boosting.

heres a few things to consider.
- my ka is currently faster
- im not blowing black smoke out anywhere
- when its cold, the car will take about 5 minutes to start, it will fire the rpm will jump to 1k then to like 200, spit and shake and then die, it does that repetedly until it starts to warm up
- Vaccuum reading is at 20 when i get off the gas, but 10 when its just sitting there
-is it possible that because of the daughter board being out, that its stuck in a limp mode? or maybe do i need a z32 maf to make it work right?

There's a good chance it's the ECU. I've been told (by the guys at Heavy Throttle) that an ECU with the daughterboard removed is really only good as a paperweight. I'm surprised your car will run at all. FWIW, the first ECU I had with my car turned out to be like yours - a daughterboard-removed unit, and it wouldn't do a thing.

Since you're running stock injectors/MAF/boost, I suggest you find a stock 62 redtop ECU and see what happens.

**** try it with the daughterboard back in it, see if that does anything

That won't work. The daughterboard was chipped for the other injectors and MAF, right?

yeah. so heres what i did, i swapped the jumper on the back of the ecu to go back to the stock map, and well now the car wont even run. im pretty sure that ecu is like you said..a paperweight

bought an ecu from Torontojdm.com...

VERY impressed with the service....

now lets see if ups carrys over

EcU came in today.

not running right, Code 11/12/34

CAS/MAFS/Knock

well i changed the MAFS and im still getting the code, the CAS is just out of time, and im ***** change the knock sensor tomorrow

You may need to re-ground the MAF sensor, it's a common issue with Nissans.

ill run its own ground to the chassis? or the engine?

now when i start it, it doesnt want to hold an idle. could that be *** its not timed?

Chassis or engine, probably doesn't matter, I'd pick chassis (near the MAF). Just make sure it's the ground wire ;)

Idle could be a CAS issue, there are numerous writeups on how to install it/time the car properly. If it's off by a tooth either way it might not want to run.

ahhh. i changed the ecu and re-started the car, and it went fine, went for a ride and it drove like crap (mafs) so i brought it home and shut it down, i changed the mafs and started it, now it hardly holds an idle, it starts, goes up to 1500, then slowly comes down to 800 and then just dies completley...wtf...i know my timing is out, any idea what else it might be?

1. fix timing.
2. report back to us.

16* BDC right

k, after reading this thread

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/27121-timing-cams-crank-angle-sensor-rebuilding-head.html

looks like my cas is probably off, considering that it needs to be way to the top to get anywhere near 15*

Not even sure that link is for RWD DET. They're different from FWD, you know.

www.heavythrottle.com

follow link to "FSM pages" on left, partway down.

You're looking for EM-29, just scroll down to it. Detailed instructions with pictures of what it should look like. You should also be able to download a full FSM in pdf format from www.zeroyon.com, tech section, manuals. There is only an S14 SR manual, the S13 doesn't exist in English.

A fair amount of this info is available here in the tech section, you should take a look around.

ok, so looking towards the back of the car, is the appropriate mark on the crank second from the left or the right...

ive been told both, so i dont know which one it is, right now its set at the second from the right facng the back of the car.

its still doesnt want to hold an idle and seems to back fire at full throttle

im not getting a mfs code but im still getting a CAS code and a Knock Sensor code, ive unplugged the knock sensor, but its not making any difference, the timing as per the cams is dead on..

as for CAS timing, when i set it with the cams pointing out, with 11 links between the 1 gears, i got to put the cas in, and my cas has a yellow line on one side, and then 2 non painted dots on the other side, ive been using the ones with the dots and it seems to beworking, am i right?

what else could cause the ecu to throw a cas code

I'm out of ideas man. Sorry :(

yeah man, me too
im serisously considering getting another engine/harness, to see if that does any thing


i might just get a new engine, *** then i know its warrantied

well i think i may have made a breakthrough tonight

i brought it to my buddys heated garage, we re-timed it and it still didnt want to co-operate, i took a shit fit, kicked some stuff and decided to go all out and tear it down and check it out.

well i bought a manifold for it, ect so i started tearing down the exhaust side, get the down pipe off and get ready to pull the turbo (all the lines ect) pull it out and what do i see, the entire center section COVERED in carbon.the o2 is BLACK, the block, BLACK, the dump pipe, BLACK.

turns out the clocking bolts on the turbo have worked themselves loose (one almost entirely off) and the bolts on the dump pipe (both studs lost their nuts) so i found a hardcore boost leak...im thinking that could explain the lack of vacuum, the running rich, the back firing ect.....

pics show 1000 words

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/burntricer/DSC00609.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/burntricer/DSC00608.jpg


so now i have to get some new crush washers for my banjos, (i dropped them DOH) and put it back together...

ill update after i take it for a ride

k all fixed but that didnt make a difference...

what are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor?