I just got back from the track. My results weren't quite what I was hoping for, but when you take into consideration that I am running normal falkien ziex 512 195-55 tires, I think that a good set of drag slicks could knock 1/2 a second off my time.
60' 2.342
330' 6.326
1/8 9.573
1/8 MPH 74.03
1000 12.338
1/4 14.651
MPH 96.00

Any input other then better tires and launch?

whats your setup?

http://sr20.cjb.net//showthread.php?t=80

great times, better tires and you'll be flying

hmmmm yeah you need tires- i ran a 9.80 with a cai and prothane mounts on stock tires

im kinda glad i gave up on my all motor build. your setup is less than a half second faster than my almost stock jdm de.

nice build ***. keep us posted after you get some better tires

im kinda glad i gave up on my all motor build. your setup is less than a half second faster than my almost stock jdm de.

nice build ***. keep us posted after you get some better tires


some of us just like going agasint the grain and doing something different, you probobly wouldve liked the engine u built.

nice, what gear do you finish the 1/4 mile? i know you can hit 13s.
this is my best run with slicks. could not back it up though.
60' 2.011
1/8 9.0712
1/8 mph 75.70
1/4 14.29
mph 93.55

im kinda glad i gave up on my all motor build. your setup is less than a half second faster than my almost stock jdm de.

nice build ***. keep us posted after you get some better tires

:rolleyes:

Why do people only focus on ET? That trap speed is good for 14.0-high 13's....

who cares about trap speed? so your saying trap speed justifies running a 9.5 at 100mph?

who cares about trap speed? so your saying trap speed justifies running a 9.5 at 100mph?
ET takes into account driver skill too, and as everyone knows, conditions at the track can be much harder to get a good launch then just regular street driving without good tires. That was my problem. I am running crappy $40 a piece Falkens. Trap speed and actual HP numbers say more about a cars potential then ET does. Having a high trap speed with a lower then usual ET tells you that either the driver is not shifting or launching right, or that the tires are just not good enough to get grip in the first 330 Ft., which is the case with my runs as reflected by my poor 60' and 330 Ft. Times. One of my runs was against a guy with a neon running mid 15's but his 60' was .1 better then mine, and up untill the 330' mark he was only .1 of a second behind me because he had better tires. It all comes down to driver skill and the equipment you have to work with. I am confident that with better tires I will be down to 14 flat if not 13's.

You better get some Nitto Drag or some BF'G G Force BTW what RPM are you shifting the car I needed to shift mine at 8,000 to get best ET's and better Trap speeds.. But you need to get those 60ft to at least 2.1 to see the full potential of the car btw your trap speeds are kind of low for your Dyno numbers but maybe the problem is how you are driving the car...

Another thing try tuning your apex on the street to achieve 12.8-13.0 afr's also play with your timing at the Track until you get best trap speeds

who cares about trap speed? so your saying trap speed justifies running a 9.5 at 100mph?


Anyone looking to gauge car performance and not all of the other variables that come in to play when drag racing. Sure you can be disappointed with ET but if the trap speed is where it should be at least you know you can get it down there with better conditions/practice.

Hey Rob, I was just curious if you drive this daily...what kind of gas mileage are you experiencing with your setup?

some of us just like going agasint the grain and doing something different, you probobly wouldve liked the engine u built.

i know what you mean. sometimes i like driving my jdm 10:1 more than my friends avenier. but i copped out because of price. one day ill build my NA... one day.

to tell the truth, I think the build was worth it. I learned and also got to build something. A 14.6 on the shittiest tires available is pretty decent IMO, and on the street the car behaves completely different. I hang with cars that are in the low 14s -high 13s. It is easier to get a good launch and grip on the streets. The track has that layer of rubber on like the first 60 feet from all the drag cars and guys spinning wheels that makes it hard to get a good launch running sh1t tires.

Another thing try tuning your apex on the street to achieve 12.8-13.0 afr's also play with your timing at the Track until you get best trap speeds
I played with my timing on the dyno already to get the best HP and tq gains, and I am setting my AFR a little lean (13.1-13.3). I am going to get better tires and go back later on in the year.


Hey Rob, I was just curious if you drive this daily...what kind of gas mileage are you experiencing with your setup?

I am getting 25-30 MPG depending on how I drive. This is a mixture of city/highway driving.





On another note, Next time I'm at the track I'm going to play around with my shift points. I was running out till redline to shift, but looking at my dyno charts, the Tq seems to start going down in 3rd gear around 7000 rpm, and in 4th gear the tq hits 130 around 5000 rpm and peaks at 134 and stays pretty steady, so I think that shifting around 7000-7500 RPM might help keep me in my tq band a little better.

to tell the truth, I think the build was worth it. I learned and also got to build something. A 14.6 on the sh*ttiest tires available is pretty decent IMO, and on the street the car behaves completely different. I hang with cars that are in the low 14s -high 13s. It is easier to get a good launch and grip on the streets. The track has that layer of rubber on like the first 60 feet from all the drag cars and guys spinning wheels that makes it hard to get a good launch running sh1t tires.

just a couple small tips, i was in the same boat as you when i built my engine & started with 14.4 @97(& tons of headaces) and last run of 13.0 @ 102. i mainly accoplished the gains with slicks, mad overlap on the c3's & hotshot gen 6 open header. i'm asuming without looking at your cam specs that you need to run hella overlap to get the full potential out of them. running 3" piping header back helps a great deal n/a, at the track just run open header...:biggthump good luck man, i've got mad love for n/a de's!

I plotted out my torque against RPM and used the gear ratios to determine my ideal shift points and came up with some numbers,
1-2 shift around 7300 RPM
2-3 shift around 7000 RPM
Then I can either trap in 3rd, or do a
3-4 shift around 6500 RPM

I really have no idea whether those would actually apply to a 1/4 mile track situation in the real world but I just plotted my torque in each gear (using the gear ratio), and then did a simple chart determining which shift points would bring me closest to peak Tq in the next gear, while still not getting me too far out of my Tq curve in the gear I am currently in.

However, I am not sure that I should be using Tq as opposed to hP to determine shift points. Any engineers out there who can know that?