My last wet kit blew the seals off the injectors due to a backfire in the plenum. So I'm thinking of going dry this time...with no fuel in the plenum, you can't get a backfire. But a nice thing about the wet system was you could activate it with the tank closed as a test that the enrichment system was working. The idle would drop from the too-rich mixture. Is there a similar safety check for dry systems? And another thing, on the wet system you regulated the fuel amount with a jet. How do you regulate, or even know how much extra fuel you're getting with a dry system?

nevermind.

On your wet system,you put the nozzles after the MAF,so the fuel jet adds fuel.
On a dry kit,you put the nitrous nozzle in front of the MAF,and the MAF makes the ECU richen up the mixture.

IMO Wet is way safer,but it seems like people have alot of success with ZEX dry kits on our motors.

Are you sure about that? I always thought that dry systems adjusted the fuel by changing the pressure going to you fuel pressure regulator and increasing fuel pressure. :melonscratcher:

I would keep the wet system but add a window switch from 4500 - 7000.

i run a wet system on 12-1 compression with no problems, ive gone threw 4 bottles sence christmas and im about to finish this one. wet FTW

On your wet system,you put the nozzles after the MAF,so the fuel jet adds fuel.
On a dry kit,you put the nitrous nozzle in front of the MAF,and the MAF makes the ECU richen up the mixture.

IMO Wet is way safer,but it seems like people have alot of success with ZEX dry kits on our motors.


That is wrong and unsafe.
Two types of dry systems.
Type 1 - the fuel is added by a compter such as the JWT nitrous ECU
Type 2 - the fuel is added via the nitrous system upping the fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator.

NEVER SPRAY BEFORE *** MAF

...with no fuel in the plenum, you can't get a backfire.



Yea, right. I hope that is not the only reason you are ditching the wet kit. A dry(or wet) kit will work fine but ONLY IF it is set up right. I have always used wet kits and one reason why is I can easily check and adjust the fuel side with a simple jet change. I never have any backfires and my 2.0L has taken two stages of nitrous(150 shot)!

Dan

That is wrong and unsafe.
Two types of dry systems.
Type 1 - the fuel is added by a compter such as the JWT nitrous ECU
Type 2 - the fuel is added via the nitrous system upping the fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator.

NEVER SPRAY BEFORE *** MAF

I stand corrected....doh

My last wet kit blew the seals off the injectors due to a backfire in the plenum. So I'm thinking of going dry this time...with no fuel in the plenum, you can't get a backfire. But a nice thing about the wet system was you could activate it with the tank closed as a test that the enrichment system was working. The idle would drop from the too-rich mixture. Is there a similar safety check for dry systems? And another thing, on the wet system you regulated the fuel amount with a jet. How do you regulate, or even know how much extra fuel you're getting with a dry system?
What kind of backfire? Nitrous backfire can occur from a faulty solenoid leaking or excess nitrous loading up in plenum. Ever see an intake manifold blow off, scarey $h1t!!!

I know for NOS dry kits, fuel enrichment is vacuum operated with a regulator. Real simple, less vacuum more fuel, more vacuum less fuel. Fuel jets are supplied for the regulator according to how much nitrous you use.

For safety get a fuel pressure safety switch to cut off nitrous if fuel pressure drops too low. Window switch good too if you accidentally activate below 2500 rpm or over rev with spray.

I have never seen or heard of a nitrous back fire while using a dry kit.

Nitrous is not a flammable gas. You can crack open nitrous bottle let the gas spray out, and put a cigarrette lighter in front and NOTHING WILL HAPPEN. Nitrous doesnt burn.

Nitrous back fires while using a wet kits are caused by:
-spray in too low of an rmp
-spraying during a mis-shift
-bad nozzle placement
-stuck open fuel silenoid