Does anyone know what the threading is for the factory water temperature sending unit? I'm thinking maybe BSPT or maybe something metric?

Originally posted by g20ps
Does anyone know what the threading is for the factory water temperature sending unit? I'm thinking maybe BSPT or maybe something metric?

I don't know for certain, but that would be my guess as well since the oil pressure switch is also 1/8 BSPT. I think it's 1/8-28 where NPT is 1/8-27.

Don't bank on this though. Best guess. YMMV etc.

Like Geo said it's 1/8 BSPT.

Would an SR one be all that different from a GA one? I am pretty sure the GA one is M12X1.25. I have been looking for months for a way to adapt it to 1/8"NPT for my AutoMeter sender. Any help would be apriciated.

Update:
I just checked a online nissan parts catalog and this it what I come up with.

The sender for 95-99 is the same for all B14 models/engines.

So I have a GA one here in my hand and I can tell you that its not 1/8"NPT, its Metic straight thread with a copper gasket for sealing.
I measured it a week ago and like I said I think its M12X1.25. If the cat. I was looking at is correct then they are all the same(B14). As for the adapter, i heard that Nissan Motorsports(not NISMO) has an adapter to convert it to 1/8"NPT If I had long distance calling, id give them a call and ask. Hope this helps all the gauge installers out there.

Originally posted by PatScottAKA99XE
As for the adapter, i heard that Nissan Motorsports(not NISMO) has an adapter to convert it to 1/8"NPT If I had long distance calling, id give them a call and ask. Hope this helps all the gauge installers out there.

I have adapters in stock for oil pressure sending units (3 ports so they can be used as an oil source for a turbo as well) and water temp sending units.

The oil temp sending unit adapter retains the oil pressure switch for the idiot light and has 3 more ports with 1/8 NPT threads. I'm just waiting for plugs for the unused ports. They are CNC machined from 316 SS. This should eliminate all the problems people have had with threads breaking at the oil filter adapter with aluminum and brass fittings - $49.

http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/Oil2a.jpg

The water temp sending unit adapter is spliced into the radiator hose. It has a 1/8 NPT threaded port for the most popular sending units and ground screw attached since it splices into the hose and thus is not grounded to the engine like most sending units would be. They are CNC machined from 6061 aluminum - $39.

http://home.earthlink.net/~geo3/H2O-1.jpg

These should be available for sale shortly. They are in stock and ready to ship as soon as the last of the paperwork is finished with the state.

Originally posted by Geo91SER
I have adapters in stock for oil pressure sending units (3 ports so they can be used as an oil source for a turbo as well) and water temp sending units.


I was wondering how accurate the water one would be seeing how it is taking the tempature from a very different spot then the oem unit.

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
I was wondering how accurate the water one would be seeing how it is taking the tempature from a very different spot then the oem unit.

I don't think the OEM unit is in such a good location. It's just before the water enters the head/block. But, you could put ours either after the head/block or before. Or both if you are so inclined.

Accurate is not an issue. You are simply looking for consistency. The temp of the water will change as it goes through the engine.

What are you interested in? Temp of the water entering the engine or leaving? Again, you could do both if you like. If you want the same reading as OEM, you would install it between the radiator and the T-stat. If you want it exiting the engine, install it between the radiator and the neck facing the front of the car.

Originally posted by Geo91SER
What are you interested in? Temp of the water entering the engine or leaving? Again, you could do both if you like. If you want the same reading as OEM, you would install it between the radiator and the T-stat. If you want it exiting the engine, install it between the radiator and the neck facing the front of the car.

I want to know when I am pushing my car to hard at the track. So I guess I want the temp coming out of the engine correct. So I put it on the bottom radiator hose correct?

Very nice parts! I do have one concern about the oil psi adapter though. IMO you shouldnt hang an electrical oil psi sender by its threads. I have seen many brake off. Here is what I am running on my GA. I am not sure if it would work on an SR due to the drip-tray, but it may be worth a shot. It has 3 ports: 2X 1/8"bspt(easly retapped for 1/8"npt) and 1X M12X1.25(good for turbo feed). I set up my electrical psi sender with a braided stainless hose. AutoMeter part number 3227. The one I got is 3' long, but they are available in 4' and 6' sizes. This way I can remote mount the sender and isolate it from engine vibrations. This AutoMeter part should also work with your adapter as well. This is a Greddy part. the pic with the oil fliter has a temp sender in it. Note this is not were I put my temp sender. That port "shrouds" the sender. I used that port for the psi sender. There is one on the side that does not shroud the temp sender.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid33/p67a790f6aa37c563e43417bb7b3da615/fd38debf.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid33/p4f5f7a907a949a1787ab46b1cb0e95f9/fd38dcbe.jpg

Greddy also make a in-hose water temp adapter. But yours is cheaper and I am not sure if the Greddy part has a grounding point.
http://www.nipponpower.com/images/greddy45_small.jpg
My thoughts on water temp sender location: I would want it where the water temp is the highest.

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
I want to know when I am pushing my car to hard at the track. So I guess I want the temp coming out of the engine correct. So I put it on the bottom radiator hose correct?

I don't know. I've always thought I wanted to know about the temp leaving the engine, but now I'm thinking I'm going to set up both in my race car.

Originally posted by PatScottAKA99XE
Very nice parts!


Thanks.

Originally posted by PatScottAKA99XE
I do have one concern about the oil psi adapter though. IMO you shouldnt hang an electrical oil psi sender by its threads.

As I said, that is why it's made from 316 Stainless rather than aluminum or brass. The adapters are what brakes. I ran something really similar for a year of hard driving (before pulling the engine) with zero troubles. The problem with the other adapters is they are made from soft metals.

If it has proven safe for you then I have no more concerns. I am always glad to see someone that has stepped up to make little gizmos to help out. Good job, much props!