I don't know how to ask this question, I'm not sure how to search it. My question what is the biggest shot nitrous you add for a dry setup?

Anyone can help me with this question. I'm all ears. If some one found it in search please point me in the right direction.

why are you deciding on a dry kit instead of a wet kit? The wet kit would be the "safer" way to go as you add fuel when needed so no need to go with larger injectors or finding a way to compensate for the added oxygen in the cylinder. If you use larger injectors, then i'm sure you are aware that the ecu needs to be reprogrammed for them, then your car would probably run rich in everyday driving. A wet kit allows for more and finer tuning.
If you are dead set on a dry kit, then i do not know how much nitrous only you can add with the 370cc injectors. Zex, i've heard, makes a good dry kit that uses bottle pressure to adjust for fuel, so it is safer in a way.

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should I have posted this in the N/a section?

the nitrous basics section is definatly a good place for you to start looking around for some of your questions. i learned alot about nitrous from just skimming around that section.

your biggest shos is going to be determined by what that JWT ecu is programmed for. If its a 100shot ecu dont try to push a 150 shot.

10:1 compression is not a big jump from the stock 9.5:1 so that wont matter. Those cams will actually lower your compression down some due to increase overlap. I would go to Brian crower stage 2 cams. Perfect for nitrous and cheap and dont require springs and retainers

The c3's definitely won't make for a comfortable daily driver. I would definitely look at s4's or some bc stage 2 or 3.

the nitrous basics section is definatly a good place for you to start looking around for some of your questions. i learned alot about nitrous from just skimming around that section.

It seems like nobody posted up the same build I want to do even though I know it has been done before. I have an idea yes, But.... I want to be on the money the first time not the 3rd build.

The c3's definitely won't make for a comfortable daily driver. I would definitely look at s4's or some bc stage 2 or 3.

What issues am I going to be dealing with?

your biggest shos is going to be determined by what that JWT ecu is programmed for. If its a 100shot ecu dont try to push a 150 shot.

10:1 compression is not a big jump from the stock 9.5:1 so that wont matter. Those cams will actually lower your compression down some due to increase overlap. I would go to Brian crower stage 2 cams. Perfect for nitrous and cheap and dont require springs and retainers


They will lower my compression huh.. see I did not see any threds about that on here thanks for the info. The reason I wanted to go to 10:1 is that I want to be able to handle myself off the juice as well as I am on it. I kind of want the best of both worlds. I had a feeling from looking at other threads that if I went 11:1 or even 12:1 that I would not be able to spray the whole 100 shot. I am sort of looking for around 160-170hp off the juice, I not sure if the bc2's will bring me there or not. If the c3's are too agressive what about the Jwt c1's?

Why do you say that about the c3 cams? What issues am I going to be dealing with?

Every thread I have read with people running c3's say the driveabilty isn't very good(very lopey). Your also gonna need s/r's too, which I am sure you know. Again from what I have read the bc stage 3's are pretty good for dd and also alot cheaper then the c3's. Besides the hp differences are probably within a few hp of each too, and definitely not worth the extra $500!

What we are trying to get you to understand is why speed $500+ more when you can just get the Brian crower Stage 2s or some used JWT S4s and make the same power cheaper. I would spend that extra 500 on suspension or tires, or clutch so you can actually put the power down instead of spinning tires.

Do a google search on static compression and dynamic compression of engines and you will understand how big cams can lower your compression

They will lower my compression huh.. see I did not see any threds about that on here thanks for the info. The reason I wanted to go to 10:1 is that I want to be able to handle myself off the juice as well as I am on it. I kind of want the best of both worlds. I had a feeling from looking at other threads that if I went 11:1 or even 12:1 that I would not be able to spray the whole 100 shot. I am sort of looking for around 160-170hp off the juice, I not sure if the bc2's will bring me there or not. If the c3's are too agressive what about the Jwt c1's?


Then i think your best bet is to go VE and spray nitrous. :biggthump (which is what i want to do) Its just that I, personally, cannot justify building a higher compression engine with cams and what not and spraying nitrous when the VE's are basically that, with better driveability and pretty close in cost in the end, BUT i will say having an all motor high compression DE on spray would be pretty sweet.

c3=horrible driveability, VERY LOPEY IDLE, i have them in right now and i regret it, it makes me not want to drive the car. im going back to s4's.

c3=horrible driveability, VERY LOPEY IDLE, i have them in right now and i regret it, it makes me not want to drive the car. im going back to s4's.

I don't know if that would bother me too much, is it really that bad that the car is not drivable. Could you give me more details about them in your car. How does the power come in.

Then i think your best bet is to go VE and spray nitrous. :biggthump (which is what i want to do) Its just that I, personally, cannot justify building a higher compression engine with cams and what not and spraying nitrous when the VE's are basically that, with better driveability and pretty close in cost in the end, BUT i will say having an all motor high compression DE on spray would be pretty sweet.

I want to stick with something that I am familiar with for now I have to pay my dues first.

What we are trying to get you to understand is why speed $500+ more when you can just get the Brian crower Stage 2s or some used JWT S4s and make the same power cheaper. I would spend that extra 500 on suspension or tires, or clutch so you can actually put the power down instead of spinning tires.

Do a google search on static compression and dynamic compression of engines and you will understand how big cams can lower your compression

Hey Nissan now we are back into the S-series what do you guys think of the (JWT s5's) I have not heard any talk about them. I just seen them on g-spec.com. These might give me the combination of big power with good drivability. LMK what you guys think about the cams. The whole thing with this build guys is I wanna do a lil something with flavor. Something that would put me a lil over the top other than the average.

The S5s are nice but do a search I think people were either floating valves or something like that. I would go with VE if you have the money. No need to build anything, just swap the motor over.

A motor swap (built by nissan) is better than having a motor tore down then rebuilt by somebody, reliability wise. No the rebuilt motor may be strong if u use forged parts.

what are your power goals?