First of all, anyone know if makes a big difference over the suspension techniques rear sway that I've been running for years?

Second of all, where can you procure one of these bars and how much does it usually cost?

Thanks, I was at a car control clinic this weekend on a skidpad and couldn't get the ass-end out even with the ebrake...although tire pressures were pretty low, I think a smaller, rear adj swaybar may help.

Thanks.

T

You can get the bar at www.ptuning.com. It's Progressive now instead of Nu-tech. It's ~$220. Tim Peele has one on his NX2000 and says the middle setting is close to the ST bar.

Originally posted by macg0d
I couldn't get the ass-end out even with the ebrake... I think a smaller, rear adj swaybar may help.
If your after some oversteer you'll want a larger rear bar, not a smaller one.

I've been tempted for a while to get the adjustable one - I'm using the ST rear bar right now. Still trying to find out if it would be worth the extra money. I don't like that bind it introduces in the rear suspension.

Also, did anyone see that there will be a Progress front adjustable sway bar (it says coming soon on Performance Tuning's site)? I wonder if the adjustment points could create a bar that is the same as the stock SE-R front bar, but go softer as well? Rather than the adjustability being more stiff. Would an adjustable front bar (with heim joint endlinks) improve turn in or be of other benefit?

Aaron

Are you saying the ST bar in particular is binding the rear suspension? Is it installed correctly?

If you say yes to both, you'll be surprised how much stiction lives in just the suspension bushings. Unhook the swaybar and unbolt the strut from the hub, then try to move the suspension though its travel. Zounds, where's Ahnold when you need a Hulk?

Most of that comes from the trailing link (radius rod?). As the rear attachment point travels through its arc toward either extreme, it pulls the hub and control arms forward. That's why the ES bushing kit supplies only one urethane slug for the trailing link. The other must remain rubber to supply squishy movement.

I didn't know that about the ES rear bushing set - thats next on my list to install.

Yes, it is installed correctly. The binding I was talking about is in the endlinks. Heim joints can rotate down when the suspension is unloaded, and the ST rear endlinks can only rotate so much.

I was wondering if using these heim joints as endlinks, where there is no real rubber or poly bushing, would help with turn in or provide some other benefit?

Aside from the adjustability, thats the only other reason I would spend the money to switch to the progress rear bar.

ak

After reading any posts on the listserve that had "swaybar" in it, the most cost effective way for me to go is to just put a stock front swaybar back on and leave the ST rear. I've talked to a few hardcore autox/racer enthusiasts and they say that it's the way to go. With both ST (f/r) sways on there and the energy full bushing set, the car understeers like crazy! Hopefully this will help.

Sucks, I just trashed the stock bars about a year ago. Who woulda thunk that I'd need the stock front bar again.

T