I took apart the rods on my gti-r motor and found it had been rebuilt with standard 17mm bearings. when I measure the journals they are only 1.867 diameter, and factory they should be 1.888 it appears the cranks has been ground .020. what should I do for new bearings?

BTW all the journals measure the same, and are in good shape. the bearings don't appear to be OEM, and I can't figure out what they are there is a logo that looks like IC followed by AH 0.5
then under that is C4136 AM they also measure .070 thickness

doing some googling I figure these are clevite bearings and the 0.5 is in mm which comes out to .020" though I still wonder why the moron put the engine together with 17mm wide bearings

anyone know where I can get rod bearings for a gtir crank thats been ground .020?
I had summit check the clevite catalog with a number I found on an australian website, and they tell me they are for a normal sr20de

well I found these are the bearings that were in my motor
http://www.raceeng.com/p-665-rod-brgsr20-5mm020.aspx
I still can't believe the 17mm bearings were used the two halves don't even meet up unless you flip the rod cap even then the bearing is offset.

still no luck finding 19mm bearings +.020" or .5mm

ok stupid question I have a spare DE motor sitting around can I just swap cranks and flywheels? I need to replace the flywheel in the gti-r motor anyway this would save the hassle of reaming the holes on the new one

19mm ACL GTI-R rod bearings:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACL-Rod-Bearings-Nissan-SR20DET-RNN14-GTIR-Pulsar-19mm_W0QQitemZ170209521885QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p 3756.m20.l1116

The auction says oversize is availably. Which usually means .01 or .02 over.

Mike

19mm ACL GTI-R rod bearings:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACL-Rod-Bearings-Nissan-SR20DET-RNN14-GTIR-Pulsar-19mm_W0QQitemZ170209521885QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p 3756.m20.l1116

The auction says oversize is availably. Which usually means .01 or .02 over.

Mike

unfortunately those only come in .001 and .010

bringing back an old thread. ive been having bearing issues as well. i pulled my old bearing and they also had those bearings with the ic on it. ok now, heres the question. from what ive been reading, there are #'s stamped on the rod and cap. example a 0 on the rod and a 0 on the rod cap, right where the seam is. ive read that they are supposed to be on the same side. when i did my bearings there was just a 0 on the rod and when you looked at the other side there was a 0 on the cap...almost like the caps were flipped. this was my first bearing job so i didnt want to change anything. make a long story short, i put in standard acl's and i have a rattle at like 3k. could this be why. ive been pulling out my hair trying to figure this out!!!

he opened up his gtir...theres suppose to be 19mm bearings but he found 17mm bearings. also the standard bearings in ur case should work. also theres a number under the cap that marks which cylinder its for. i cant remember where exactly are the other numbers if on the rod itself or on the side of the cap. i think on the side of the rod. but the second row of number on crank lobe + the number on the side of the rods gives u the rod bearings grade according to info on this forum. example 1121 + 0000 = 1121. maybe u wanna try the rite bearings this time? i can help if u need.

he opened up his gtir...theres suppose to be 19mm bearings but he found 17mm bearings. also the standard bearings in ur case should work. also theres a number under the cap that marks which cylinder its for. i cant remember where exactly are the other numbers if on the rod itself or on the side of the cap. i think on the side of the rod. but the second number on crank lobe + the number on the side of the rods gives u the rod bearings grade according to info on this forum. maybe u wanna try the rite bearings this time? i can help if u need.

im gonna go with the grade #'s on the crank. my question is, are my caps flipped. there is a zero on the side of the rod and there is a 0 on the side of the cap...but there not on the same side. the zero on the rod face's the front of the car and the zero on the cap faces the rear of the car. shouldnt they both be on the same side, together:confused:

no the caps are not flipped. if i can recall correctly the last bearing job i did was like that also. the markings are not on the same side. if u go back in check the number on the caps that marks the cylinder number see if theyre in order or upside down.

if i recall cyl 1 bearing cap faced(the stamping on the cap) the crank, 2 faced the tranny and 3 and 4 faced the crank??

something dont sound rite about that orientation.

something dont sound rite about that orientation.

yeah, one of them def face the opposite of the other ones. it was either 2 or 3:confused: . that def doesnt sound right...right:confused: when i open it back up im gonna flip that one cap around the right way. can any one confirm if the tabs on the caps should meet up together or are they on opposite sides?i just put it back together the same way it was when i took it off. it really sucks having to clean up someones half-assed work:squint:

bringing back an old thread. ive been having bearing issues as well. i pulled my old bearing and they also had those bearings with the ic on it. ok now, heres the question. from what ive been reading, there are #'s stamped on the rod and cap. example a 0 on the rod and a 0 on the rod cap, right where the seam is. ive read that they are supposed to be on the same side. when i did my bearings there was just a 0 on the rod and when you looked at the other side there was a 0 on the cap...almost like the caps were flipped. this was my first bearing job so i didnt want to change anything. make a long story short, i put in standard acl's and i have a rattle at like 3k. could this be why. ive been pulling out my hair trying to figure this out!!!

if I remember correctly the rod, and cap should be marked for which cylinder they go to, and the markings should be on the same side. all the rods I ever seen also have 0 on the other side. it sounds like they are flipped you probably should have asked this question before putting the motor back together. I also wouldn't have used any other bearing than OEM unless using plastigage.

rattle? I wouldn't describe internal problems as a rattle are you sure there isn't something loose on the outside of the motor? I had a rattle that ended up being the alt bracket. the flipped caps might be throwing off the balance that would be my guess if everything on the outside of the motor is secured down

I got this motor back together a few months ago. I ended up using the rods, and crank out of a regular DE with DET pistons. the only complication is that the gtir oil pump drive spacer is needed off the gtir crank.

yeah, one of them def face the opposite of the other ones. it was either 2 or 3:confused: . that def doesnt sound right...right:confused: when i open it back up im gonna flip that one cap around the right way. can any one confirm if the tabs on the caps should meet up together or are they on opposite sides?i just put it back together the same way it was when i took it off. it really sucks having to clean up someones half-assed work:squint:


I can't remember if they are on opposite sides, but the tabs shouldn't line up they will be offset if on the same side

cleaning up the mess some idiot created is a pain in the ass, but its worth it in the end

I can't remember if they are on opposite sides, but the tabs shouldn't line up they will be offset if on the same side


Yes, they'll be opposite. It's important to remember that. If you install them on the same side, you have a higher risk of smashing the bearing on install, or having them spin later on.

thanks guys...im gonna pull off the pans again. its just a pita because its my dd and trying to find time working 2 jobs is an other issue. i mostly do all my work between 9pm and 5am..lol. im gonna take off the pans and girdle and snap some shots of the caps.