no, i dont have one. but i hope someone out there does. Now that i have seen a dyno chart of the sr20ve, it would be awesome to se a dyno chart for a stroked 2L sr16ve and compare the power bands since the 1.6 should rev higher than the sr20ve, even stroked to 2L, right?

If you were to stoke a SR16VE it would be a 2.0 with SR16VE cams so it would have about 12 more HP than a standard SR20VE. Thats it nothing special to see.

Andreas Miko.

Look at the last dyno chart from bigtom. That is a sr20ve with the sr16cams. It would be the same as a converted sr16ve. Yes you could rev the sr16ve higher then the sr20ve but as you can see the power is falling off.

Steve, when are you going to post more impressions? I thought for sure we'd be hearing more from you by now.

ok. sorry, i wasnt thinking. i thought that since the sr16ves r/l is 8200, it would make power until then. but if it;s stroked, the power would fall off around7-7500?

Originally posted by Shoes59
Steve, when are you going to post more impressions? I thought for sure we'd be hearing more from you by now.

I have been real busy with work and also have run into a minor problem with the cam activation switch's. I am going to be wiring in some relay's tommorow night. Right now I have been driving with the switch's disconected. It is still nice and torque for a 2.0. I also have no negative driveablity issues if you are wondering. It idles and revs and accelerates smooth as butter. I have also been sorting out some issues with the header hitting my swaybar which I have now fixed. Also, unrelated my maxima rear brakes started smoking after I raced a friend in a classic. So I have been double checking those kind of things. I may go to dinwittie (local drag track) this weekend if I get the cam triggers figured out just for kicks. It shouldn't be that hard to fix with a little time. I can tell you I love the quaife. It is truely an amazing addition to the car. Also took my car in tonight to get the 2.5 inch exhaust welded up. They didn't have the right resonator so I will be without a resonator for the weekend at least. OH NO.

I dont know why you would be able to rev a stroked sr16ve to 2.o any higher than a regular sr20ve... Usually the reason you cant rev too high is the rod/stroke ratio... when strokeing the sr16, do they only change the crank or do they change the rods too? if they change boths the engines should be identical, cause the valvetrain should be the same on noth engiens except for the camshafts.


I could understand changing the crank on two engines that have a different head, but I really dont think the differences of the two are that much that you'd be able to rev a lot higher...

You change the crank and rods and pistons. The head is good to 8200rpm stock. The 2.0 will not make power that high. The power curve will look like bigtoms.

Okay well didnt tom blow one engine up already, or something like that? If so was it the block that messed things up or did he get bent valves from float? If it it the latter then the sr16 valve train is stronger. I believe its is the former and the two valvetrains are petty similar.

Does anyone have specs on the head, such as vlave size, weight type(single/dual)?

Lets look at the facts, as I know them. The sr20ve is designed to rev to 7200rpm from the factory. The 16/20 shares the same head and block and crank. The sr16ve is designed to rev to 8200 rpm from the factory. Bigtom revs his sr20ve to 7850 and has been around when an sr20ve was destroyed. Bigtom highly suggested to me to set the redline at no higher then 7850 on an sr20ve with the sr16cams and not bounce off the rev limiter. The VE that blew up blew up due to the valve hitting the piston and then it had a catastrophic failure in the block. Basically it is real safe to assume that the head is the same, the valves are the same/similar, the valve springs are not the same and allow a higher redline.

BTW the MSD 6AL rev limiter is sweet. It is so soft that I didn't even know that I hit it the first time. I would highly recommend it purely for this. I have mine set well south of 7850 also.

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
I am going to be wiring in some relay's tommorow night.
Yeah, I opted to use the MSD relays right from the start. I figured they were cheap enough so it couldn't hurt. Happy to know you have no driveability issues. I still have a small amount of stumbling/surging/hesitation at mid rpm/load. I'm certain this has to do with the timing maps in the ECU. If it can be mapped in smaller rpm increments I think it would eliminate the problem. Assuming I get SR16 cams installed this winter I'll be heading to Tornoto again next spring to let Yoshio have another shot at his Techtom program. Glad you like the Quaife. Consider yourself fortunate to have one.

Did you eliminate the coolant flow through your TB?

Hey Shoe59 what are the part #s for the MSD relays.

Thanks Andreas Miko.

Thanx for laying down the facts, I always rather know the truth than some hearsay. I wonder who makes a good valvetrain for the VE

Originally posted by Andreas Miko
Hey Shoe59 what are the part #s for the MSD relays.
MSD-8961, $25.95 each from Summit.

BTW, I'm trying to get my guy to put together the wiring diagram for the Classics but he's just too busy this time of year. Come the end of summer he'll have more time to work on it. I'll keep you posted.

Originally posted by Shoes59

Glad you like the Quaife. Consider yourself fortunate to have one.



No doubt on the Quaife. I was sweating it when I couldn't get one. Some people who knock the SpecV don't understand the pro of that HLSD.

Originally posted by Shoes59

Did you eliminate the coolant flow through your TB?

No I did not but I am thinking about it. I heard the VE Throttle Body has a wax ball that melts and is part of the cold idle adjustment. Are you running the DE T.B.?

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
Are you running the DE T.B.?
Yes. I had little choice in the matter because my motor arrived with a broken TPS. I opted to eliminate the coolant running through the TB because the fittings on the DE TB are different diameter than the fittings on the VE motor. Would have been a headache trying to find a hose with a reducer on one end.

Are you running the DE TB? Send pictures to my home addy so I can see the install.

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
The 16/20 shares the same head and block and crank.

Actually the design of the crank is the same obviosly the stroke is not. The SR16VE has a more desirable rod/stroke ratio then the sr20ve.


Are you running the DE TB? Send pictures to my home addy so I can see the install.

It looks just like the VE setup because I used the VE hoses and placed another hose inside the VE hose to make it fit nice and tight. I used a Heavy Duty clamp and it has not been a problem. It's really the only thing I did that I don't feel 100% good about. It would worry me a little on a track day so I am thinking about changing it. I am seriously thinking of by passing the TB also. It's interesting that you ask all this. Are you concerned about not having the TB coolant lines or just interested in what I did to solve the problem?

Originally posted by civicdragon
Thanx for laying down the facts, I always rather know the truth than some hearsay. I wonder who makes a good valvetrain for the VE

I don't see a need to upgrade the sr16ve valvetrain. No one has a cam that makes any power past 7800rpm yet. I am sure Bigtom is working on it right now but he has access to things the normal individual does not. I would not try and build a sr16/20ve combo (finally figured out what to call it) that goes past 8200rpm at this point until someone else shows us how it is done. It's still a lot of money to blow learning the hard way at this point. 8200 rpm is nothing to be disappointed about. The sr16/20ve is good for power up to 7500-7800 rpm depending on tuning and all. I would think twice about spinning the sr16/20ve much past 7900rpm until I was sure the rods and crank are good up that high. Remember the sr16ve has better rod ratio then the sr20ve, the 2001 crank that is a drop in for the ve is a 4 counterweight crank. The 8 counterwieght crank off of a pre-2001 car may be better for the high rpm but is going to require a DE oil pan and maybe some other changes. It would be a trial fit with some issue that may need to be addressed.

sr16/20ve= started as a sr16ve and add the 2001crank,rods and ve (or similiar) pistons.
sr20/16ve= started as a sr20ve and added the sr16cams.

What do you think???

heres the real deal as far as i have found. the weakness is the valvetrain. the rods/crank in a ve was good for a short time near 11k rpm. the valvetrain with sr20ve cams died at about 8112 rpm bouncing on the rev limit. this causes a whiping action on the timing chain and that creates a moment of extreme valve acceleration causing the valve float. the exhaust valves float and the pistons hit follwing them closed. advancing the cams 2.5deg with cam gears may keep them from coliding but they will still be floating and thats never good.

the valve springs in the sr16 are exactly the same as sr20ve as i remember checking. however the ramp angles are considerably less severe because of the increased duration. this means the opening acceleration is much less and therefore less likely to float off the high point of the cam.

if you have any specific questions about all of this feel free to ask.i will let you know what i have found

Originally posted by bigtom
heres the real deal as far as i have found. the weakness is the valvetrain. the rods/crank in a ve was good for a short time near 11k rpm. the valvetrain with sr20ve cams died at about 8112 rpm bouncing on the rev limit. this causes a whiping action on the timing chain and that creates a moment of extreme valve acceleration causing the valve float. the exhaust valves float and the pistons hit follwing them closed. advancing the cams 2.5deg with cam gears may keep them from coliding but they will still be floating and thats never good.

the valve springs in the sr16 are exactly the same as sr20ve as i remember checking. however the ramp angles are considerably less severe because of the increased duration. this means the opening acceleration is much less and therefore less likely to float off the high point of the cam.

if you have any specific questions about all of this feel free to ask.i will let you know what i have found

So the only difference is the cams? If that is the case then you could rev a sr20/16ve to 8200rpm and be OK. I know it might not have the power up thier.