I recently have acquired sr20ve and found this:
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l56/wojtekj/OILLEAK.jpg

It looks like it is coming from the oil pump (rather than head gasket), what do you suggest I do?

Should I remove the crank pulley, get the oil pump out and clean and reapply sealant to seal the edges properly or is there a pump gasket that I can buy.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Thanks.

Hard to tell, as they're oil traces along both joint lines. I'd suspect the oil pump gasket...

Hard to tell, as they're oil traces along both joint lines. I'd suspect the oil pump gasket...

Is there a gasket there or just RTV gasket maker/silicone sealant. Thanks.

Is there a gasket there or just RTV gasket maker/silicone sealant. Thanks.


RTV.

From that pic, it's tough to say whether it's coming from the timing chain cover or the headgasket.

I say do them both why not since the motor is not in the engine bay.

I will open the timing chain cover and see what's going on under, I do not want to touch the head gasket as I have short amount of time to do this transplant. When I checked the spark plugs they were clean or any oil, which would then indicate that the head gasket is bad, correct?

IMHO I wouldnt rush this swap bro. You spent so much money on the engine I would check everything first and determine the cause before you toss her in. I understand you have time constraints with your race schedule but I wouldnt rush the swap.:)

I will open the timing chain cover and see what's going on under, I do not want to touch the head gasket as I have short amount of time to do this transplant. When I checked the spark plugs they were clean or any oil, which would then indicate that the head gasket is bad, correct?

If you remove the timing chain cover, you will disturb the headgasket, but not where it seals the cylinders. Where the M6 bolts are at the top the cover, they go through the headgasket into the timing chain cover. This part of the headgasket only seals the oil from getting outside the engine, and if it is compromised, that is why you are experiencing oil leakage. Have a close look, you should be able to determine if is coming from the headgasket or timing chain cover.

It is possible to remove the cover and seal that part of the headgasket (I have done it), but it is difficult, since there are dowels in the cover that fit into the block, so you have to install the cover 'in' towards the engine, you can't install it 'up' into the head.

Looks like someone changed the timing chain and didn't do it quite right. Maybe they forgot the atv altogether.

^^^ that would be my guess too

If you remove the timing chain cover, you will disturb the headgasket, but not where it seals the cylinders. Where the M6 bolts are at the top the cover, they go through the headgasket into the timing chain cover. This part of the headgasket only seals the oil from getting outside the engine, and if it is compromised, that is why you are experiencing oil leakage. Have a close look, you should be able to determine if is coming from the headgasket or timing chain cover.

It is possible to remove the cover and seal that part of the headgasket (I have done it), but it is difficult, since there are dowels in the cover that fit into the block, so you have to install the cover 'in' towards the engine, you can't install it 'up' into the head.


Uplon closer inspection there seems to be some oil traces behind the alternator bracket on the block side of the head gasket but it might be the chain cover oil leak deflected by the alt. bracket itself.
Most of the leak is from the chain cover - i see that somene used RTV grey on most of the joints (timing cover, oil pan, upper oil pan), it seems like someone took parts of the engine apart before, unless they use the grey RTV from the factory.
When I checked cold compression at the importer I got about ~165-175 in cyl 1 and ~175-180 in cyl #2,3,4, but that was cold with almost no oil in the engine so might not be very accurate.
I have also detected a small oil trace from the vvl solenoid furthest away from the valve cover (intake one I think) which has traces of oil on its base as well as the plug area - will probably have to take it apart, clean and use some rtv there.

At this point I am not sure if to do the head gasket or not, its about $80 in parts and few hours in labour for myself. I still have some wiring to do to adpopt my b13 harness, wire the solenoids to my summit switch, pull lower oil pan and clean the inside, wait for gauges to install pressure gauge adapter +sender, install water temp sender, install new flywheel + clutch and then basically drop it in. So still a lot of work to do but only less than a month left until we move to a new house thus the rush, and only having few hours a week for the work it's going to be tough to make the deadline.

Any other suggestions would be welcomed.
Thanks.

Its coming from the timing cover. There are no oil holes on the head gasket that close to the edge and I highly doubt the 60-80psi max from the oil pump is going to squeeze oil out of a head gasket. Not very likely unless there is a major clog in the head somewhere. Which I doubt.

Pull the crank pulley and unbolt the cover. Slide it off (it can be a little difficult to do with the head on, but it is doable). Clean out all the oil gasket with a flat head screwdriver and a razor blade. DONT USE TOO MUCH rtv ultra gray. it takes a suprisingly little amount to get a good reliable seal! Too much and that seal could be compromised. just don't overdo it.

Slide the pump cover back on after putting the rtv on and just lightly tap the top with a rubber mallot to get it flush to the block. I have always put the cover on after the head to ensure timing, so it may be a little tight, but it will work. while you have it out you might as well get a new oil seal for the front cover.

I was trying to remove the chain cover to take care of a leak and cracked it on the top middle as some idiot (who owned this motor before) packed crazy amounts of RTV grey at the bottom. I still cannot remove the cover as the bottom is stuck like crazy - this is with the head on and the upper oil pan on as well.

Now, I have a spare DE that I can take the cover from, but I heard there are some differences in oil pumps, what do you guys think?

Can VE crack be repaired? (JB weld it ??)
Or should I go with the DE one?

Inorder to remove the chain/oil pump cover, you need to remove the lower oil pan to get access to the two remaining bolts.

Since the cover is cracked, you can either weld it or get a new Ve cover. Jb weld can't last since that part of the engine sees a lot of vibration. I would lean toward getting a new cover. It will cost you but for the peace of mind. The dealerships don't sell the pump separately from the cover, I've tried. You can't really use the De's cover. It has a different pickup and pump. The VE needs a lot of oil pressure which the De pump can't provide.