Just installed N1 cams into my ve motor. Here is what I noticed. there is not much space between the cam lobe and the head of the cam. This caused a little problem getting the 27mm wrench on the cam so I could break the cam bolts loose. it seems the the billets are a little rough on the stock ve cams but were not as bad on the n1 cams. If my craftsman wrench would have been 1mm thinner things would have been much easier. Other than that the cam install was very straight forward.

How did you do the springs and retainers?

How did you do the springs and retainers?

the stock springs and retainers are safe to 8k with the n1 cams. besides the n1 cams will not make power past 7.5k on my current setup. I know a few people running n1 cams and the stock springs/retainers.

I'm running N1's on stock s/r runs like a champ. Set the rev limit to 7.5k and I just got back from an all day autox with no problems.

Dudeman

may i ask how did u end up pullin the cam? *** i got the same difficulty wrench too thick... havent solved it though, as cams arent up for installation yet

may i ask how did u end up pullin the cam? *** i got the same difficulty wrench too thick... havent solved it though, as cams arent up for installation yet

I stick a screwdriver through one of the holes in the cam gear, so that when you try and break the bolt loose the screwdriver is against the head and will not let the cam move. Get what I'm saying?

may i ask how did u end up pullin the cam? *** i got the same difficulty wrench too thick... havent solved it though, as cams arent up for installation yet

on the stock ve cams I used a mallet to tap the wrench into place. on the n1 cams I used a dremel to deburr the area prior to installation. I also could have shaved my wrench down since I only seem to use the 27mm for cam installs. I would recommend shaving the wrench down by 2mm. this is much safer than tapping in into place because the cam could been broken, but I was not worried about the stock ve cams.

I stick a screwdriver through one of the holes in the cam gear, so that when you try and break the bolt loose the screwdriver is against the head and will not let the cam move. Get what I'm saying?

I tried this too but did not have the correct screw driver and I found that the cams wanted to move. I was concerned about messing up the cam timing.

So hows the car feel now with those N1s. What your expected or more?

So hows the car feel now with those N1s. What your expected or more?

what I expected. some low end loss but power all the way up to the rev cut. I have not installed the adjustable cam gears yet or switched to a short ram intake. I also still need to jump on the dyno to check the a/f ratio. I did not expect the car to burn the tires from a roll when I down shifted though. Still its not like my turbo car but its my daily driver and does have a/c.

dont be too quick to just do what everyone says and put the cam gears at +5-5 . my n1s ran great and made over 190whp with stock exhaust and de maf and junk tune, i put on the cam gears and now the car is a complete turd and when it hits vvl it just falls flat on its face. i need to spend some time on the dyno with these gears and probably need a realtime ecu to work it all out.

dont be too quick to just do what everyone says and put the cam gears at +5-5 . my n1s ran great and made over 190whp with stock exhaust and de maf and junk tune, i put on the cam gears and now the car is a complete turd and when it hits vvl it just falls flat on its face. i need to spend some time on the dyno with these gears and probably need a realtime ecu to work it all out.

You still have the stock exhaust?

Man sorry I missed the boat on this one. I took Dre's advice, and just grabbed the cam with my hands and a towel. Had a friend use an impact wrench on the end to get the gear off. Repeat to get gear on. Be sure the gear is totally flat on the new cam before you tighten it down.

The motor shouldn't loose torque really, the cams are almost identical to the old ones on the small lobes (I believe).

I did not really feel too impressed with the N1's. My car still wont burn them in first from a stop if I floor it. Many on here claim their ve will smoke 2nd gear when vvl kicks in..yea right. I did notice I can chirp 2nd again, which I haven't been able to do since my old all seasons were on. So overall they are better up top. But it still doesn't pull as much as I would like. I want to get to the bottom of it and put the car on a dyno to see what it is making.

Dudeman

I have a calum ecu with a custom ve program in my car. This program is very aggressive and the car ran very strong before I put the n1 in. The car runs great with n1 cams the power band is just different.

I have a calum ecu with a custom ve program in my car. This program is very aggressive and the car ran very strong before I put the n1 in. The car runs great with n1 cams the power band is just different.

Same impression I had when I put them in, I'm using Calum's 20ve program tuned for 16ve cams. I havent had a chance to tune it with the N1's yet though.

Yea i guess that is a very accurate way of putting it. It doesn't feel allot faster but it pulls very differently. I am hoping to get allot more out of these with some basic tuning with my wide band. And then hit the dyno for timing and more misc. tuning....If any of you guys make progress let me know!

Dudeman

Heads up on the wrench issue: Just grind flat a special "cam spec" open end wrench. Done and done. OTOH, for some reason, the cam bolts on my stock cams were DAMN tight and I was quite concerned about how much force I had to put on 'em to get 'em to bust loose.

Using an impact to loosen while using a backing wrench might be okay, but holding with a towel by hand is scary. Also, I'd NEVER install a sprocket with an impace. Uber-scary - unless the engine was at mid stroke across the board. Imagine if your grip slipped and you spun your cam and drove your valves into the pistons!!

Also, 1st gear for me is useless up high - 2nd will chirp/spin on an enthusiastic shift on street tires.

_SHig

I figured out why my car did not feel like it should have. My fuel pressure was at 50psi for some reason so I changed it to 44psi. I also re-adjusted the timing to 13-14deg from 10deg. I set the car to 10deg because the timing maps are very agressive on setzer's ve program. the car is much stronger now. still have things to try out.

Any of you guys running stock fuel system and de or n60 maf? With stock ve injectors? I would LOVE to try out any other programs that would be safe.

Dudeman

Any of you guys running stock fuel system and de or n60 maf? With stock ve injectors? I would LOVE to try out any other programs that would be safe.

Dudeman

Dude, what tune are you using?

I have an N60 N1 no rev cut 4 BAR tune that I'm using but I too would love some other options...

_SHig