Sup fellas, first, let me start off by sayin my boy "nismo94tuner" and i have been tryin to figure out whats wrong with this thing for at least a month. this is my set-up
GTIR w/ stock 444inj , 3 bar
tubular mani
gt2871R w/ flapper welded shut
hks EWG
3' intercooler piping
z32 maf, presently running a draw-through set up
calum ECU

basicaly the car is running like sh*t, bogging and hesitating after 3-4k rpm. the car was orig a blow through set up i tried a draw-through, nothing, i bought a new maf, nothing, i tried regrounding the maf, nothing. the vacum is about 11-12 at idle. i built a preasure tester and we checked it for leaks. i dont know if my compressor isnt strong enough or what but i can only get about 7-8 pounds through the pipes. we found a few leaks and fixed them.
still no results.i pulled the plugs today and they where black. full of carbon.im out of ideas, i was hoping to have the car at the track already. but its not going anywhere fast. any help would be greatly appreciated

Also, it would be nice if someone has a vacuum diagram of how to route every line. I will head over to your place on Wednesday Jay and try to give you a hand and use my car to get some ideas.

You forgot to mention the resistor box. Has anyone used a GTi-R stock resistor box. We soldered up the wiring harness and connected all the wires like they should be for the injectors and still nothing. Also made sure to reverse the two outside wires on the TPS, solder in a connector for the AACV, and Z32 maf which i'm pretty sure its right.

This is a 93 XE converted to an SR. Does anyone know if there is some special mod to be done to the three connectors near the battery area (screwed to the frame)? There are only two there meanwhile the 93 SE-R harness we are using has three.

Any help is appreciated because we're dieing to see this car hit the track.

I think we have to mess with the timing a little and check every vacuum line one more time. I managed to pull 16 for vac by replacing the vac lines near the ITB's today. Its still not perfect but its getting there!

It sounds like you have a pretty good sized vacum leak and or boost leak. you have low vacum and the hesitation and black plugs means ints running rich so its most likely a leak. did you check all the hoses under the intake? there are quite a few larger hoses for the iacv and such inder the intake manifold and they all wear out and get torn up over time.

what gap on the plugs u running, what plugs are you running?

what gap on the plugs u running, what plugs are you running?

BKR7E at .028. im gonna get a fresh set and through them in. i think im also gonna pul the injectors and make shore all the o-rings are intact. does any body have a clear vacum diagram?

1) Here's a link to a thread with the vacuum routes (two diffrent pics).

2) Is your ECU throwing any codes? Can you rev the engine above 4k?

3) 16inHG is still low, but better then 11. Though, with that said a few of use have Rs that run at 16~17inHg and everything is golden (ie: no leaks or problems at all) Keep trying to find leaks though.

4) What do you idle at and what's your timing set too?

5) I assume the ECU is set up for the GTi-R. What sensors you using, US or JDM?

I use the stock Resistor Box and never had a problem with it. Just make sure you wired it right. Speaking of wiring, make sure the MAF is wired correctly and that the signal is getting to the ECU.

what should the vac be with a gtir with cams?

1) Here's a link to a thread with the vacuum routes (two diffrent pics).

2) Is your ECU throwing any codes? Can you rev the engine above 4k?

3) 16inHG is still low, but better then 11. Though, with that said a few of use have Rs that run at 16~17inHg and everything is golden (ie: no leaks or problems at all) Keep trying to find leaks though.

4) What do you idle at and what's your timing set too?

5) I assume the ECU is set up for the GTi-R. What sensors you using, US or JDM?

I use the stock Resistor Box and never had a problem with it. Just make sure you wired it right. Speaking of wiring, make sure the MAF is wired correctly and that the signal is getting to the ECU.

the link is not working, yes im running a gtir ecu, but the screw is broke so i cant check if it is throwing codes. im assuming im not because the cel is off. the engine revs freely no hesitation when its not under load, when i drive the car this happens:confused: idle sits between 7- 800 rpm i havent messed w/ the timing i was told stock is 20 deg? we put a new harness in because the old one was chopped up bad. when my boy did the resistor box he did each ground off of each inj. to the box? was that correct??

1) Here's a link to a thread with the vacuum routes (two diffrent pics).

2) Is your ECU throwing any codes? Can you rev the engine above 4k?

3) 16inHG is still low, but better then 11. Though, with that said a few of use have Rs that run at 16~17inHg and everything is golden (ie: no leaks or problems at all) Keep trying to find leaks though.

4) What do you idle at and what's your timing set too?

5) I assume the ECU is set up for the GTi-R. What sensors you using, US or JDM?

I use the stock Resistor Box and never had a problem with it. Just make sure you wired it right. Speaking of wiring, make sure the MAF is wired correctly and that the signal is getting to the ECU.

will a regular calum DE basic board ecu run my car?

I was having very similar problems when it was running, so i am going to subscribe to this thread.

btw also running a calum ecu..

arent you supposed to run a DE ecu with a gti-r swap? what would happen if you ran the gti-r ecu?

Sorry, here is the vacuum thread again: GTi-R Vacuum Diagram (http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/177305-i-need-vaccuum-help-%3E%3C.html)

If you having matching ECU & senors, then that shoots down that idea. Though it sucks and is bad that you cant check for codes. Try getting ahold of a consult cable that you can plug up (you did make sure you wired the consult wiring, right) and check things out that way. It's only like $60ish and will help you with any nissan in the future, so its a win win thing. Plus you can check for codes and monitor your engine with it.

Timing is 20*. So make sure thats what it's at. Your idle is a little low. The FSM likes you to have it at 925 +25/-75 RPMs. See if you can get that raised some. Though I doubt that has anything to do with your problem.

It's been about 5 years since I wired my car, but I am 99% sure you wired the injectors correctly.

What do the plugs look like? You running hell-a-lean or pig rich?

It's hard to point at the problem when we are limited by ways to check things.

Do you have a FPR and a gauge? You could have fuel vapor. Unplug the vacuum line from the FPR, and cap it, and test drive the car. If that fixed it some you have a fuel property problem. Also, pinch the PCV blow-by hose closed (while the car is at idle). If the engine speed rises then you still have a boost/vacuum leak you need to fix.

Have you done a power balance test? ie: unplug an injector and make sure there is a momentary engine speed drop. Replace and repeat for all four cylinders.

EDIT: You will have to ask Calum about the ECUs working. I'm running a MINES GTi-R ECU. When doing the R swap you want to either run a gtir ECU or one programed for that setup. I don't think running a normal ECU work work out well at all... in fact I bet money it would be bad unless you had some piggy back ECU.

The ecu in the car is a GTi-R ecu reprogrammed by Calum for the basic daughterboard setup. We threw in a set of chips programmed for 444/3bar/Z32maf. I'm ***** try my JWT ecu in his car and try his in my car and see if any issues come about. These cars can definately be a pain.

The car has an adjustable FPR which is set to 44psi with the vac line off. We triple checked the fuel pressure especially after installing the fuel pump. I believe one of the pintle caps on the injectors is cracked. Could this cause the above symptoms?

wait, then why do the warehouses that sell jdm sr20's always say you should use a stock USDM sr20de ecu on their websites?

On a GTi-R engine you want to use a GTi-R ECU or a reprogrammed ECU for a GTi-R. Or at least have a piggy pack for a normal ECU... though I don't know how that will work. If a warehouse is telling you to use a stock USDM sr20de ECU on a GTi-R motor walk away from them. Not only is that so wrong, but it's just plain dumb. The R is nothing like the other sr20 almost, expecially an US de.

Do a power balance test and look at the plugs. Were is this crack at? It might cause over fueling if it is leaking.

Oh, check your oil, btw, make sure it still smells okay.

well, i already bought the motor from the place like 3 months ago, but i just talked to my mechanic and he said he was already not planning on doing that anyway. he said that doing that makes absolutely no sense because the stock ecu isnt programmed for a turbocharger. but i dont think i have the stock ecu anyway, my car came with a u13 motor in it without the turbo installed, so im guessing its got a u13 ecu.

Bes and I just did a pressure test on the car. We found some small leaks near the back of the manifold but we found a big leak what seems to be coming from the middle of the compressor housing. We made sure all the screws around the compressor housing were tight but it still leaks. Is there some special gasket or something that could be leaking? Thanks for the help guys.

all the bolt on the compressor housing and exh housing are tight, is it possible we clocked the turbo wrong???