TireRack just sent me my new KYB adjustable gas struts and I want to do the swap out myself (did a '92 miata last summer for autocrossing... rear wheel drive car unlike my little nissan). I went out and ordered a copy of the Haynes All Sentra models from 82-94 assuming that the NX would be involved in the book. After reading some more detail on the manual from other NX owners I am not so sure that this is the right manual or will have enough information. Can any of you make some suggestions on if this repair manual will work? I really don't want to cough out the money for the Nissan Mfg. manual... Thanks, Anna

the FMS is not that expencive i think i payed 40 for mine ?,
the strut swap is pritty strait forwerd to do personly i think a manual is not needed to do it. all that is in volved in swaping it is un-doing the top three 12mm nuts that hold the top of the strut to the body, and then there is two 17 mm i think (cant remember the size ?) nuts on the bottem to loosen and thats it. the sturt asmebly is out. then all you have to do i swap over the spring on to the new one.
might have to replace some of the rubber bits and dust covers depending on how old they are and the thrust bearing might need replaceing if the bearing is worn out on it.

Nick-

I take it that is 40 Canadian for the manual (great skiing up yonder!)? I will look into it. I have a feeling it will cost me a bit more than I want to pay but in the end time is money too and I would rather not screw up.

I have replaced the struts on a miata prior so I am thinking that this will not be drastically different....

Did you buy generic boots (I know the rubber is worn) or did you buy Nissan factory ones?

Thanks for the input!!

Anna

Just pretty damn happy to say I was able to do the strut replacement without the manual! The KYB AGX gas adjustable shocks are awesome!!!

How did the kyb's affect your ride, did you lower your car as well?
Just asking because I'm wanting to do the same.....

This is the second day of the KYB struts and I love them to death! Which are you looking at getting; silvers or agx? The adjustable are great in the sense that you can pick from 1-8 for the stiffness. I have only tried out 6 on my way to work (mostly because I don't really want to crawl under my car to change the adjustment in my work clothes), and that provided an almost steel ride feel. The car didn't lower to my notice. In fact, I was more worried that it might raise the car a bit, which I also haven't noticed.

Are you going to do any autoXing? Anyway, I am loving the new struts (had to replace the rear boots as well because of rubber deterioration but went with generic 2.99 ones instead of the Nissan 25 ones!). Anyway, good luck and let me know how it goes if you do go through with it! Oh, and I suggest getting an offset 17mm wrench... I found it to be a tool of wonder while trying to get off the top nut of the old strut...
-Anna

Wish me luck as well, im replacing mine with AGX's tomorrow or thurs. I am pretty much in the middle of nowhere right now with no specialized tools except a spring compressor. But i installed the ES master set so this should be a piece of cake. Hope these things are good, mine have 185000 km on them and are original

fastNX -

I only had spring compressors as 'special' tools. I had to go out and buy the handy dandy extra special wrench the morning of the operation when I figured out I couldn't get the damn thing off. Part of the problem was that, like you, I had originals still on my '91... so the stuff was over 10 yrs old and glued on from time. All in all it is a pretty simple task... and the results are great! So, I doubt you need too much luck... just remember how wonderful a stress reliever swearing can be...

Anna

just remember how wonderful a stress reliever swearing can be...
yeah and hitting shit with a crow bar. Yesterday i took a few good whacks at the company van and it felt oh so good

Originally posted by nxanna
fastNX -

I only had spring compressors as 'special' tools. I had to go out and buy the handy dandy extra special wrench the morning of the operation when I figured out I couldn't get the damn thing off. Part of the problem was that, like you, I had originals still on my '91... so the stuff was over 10 yrs old and glued on from time. All in all it is a pretty simple task... and the results are great! So, I doubt you need too much luck... just remember how wonderful a stress reliever swearing can be...

Anna

How much of the original harware was reuseable? When I did mine the boots were shot, as was most of the rubber donuts etc. Did you buy new upper mounting plates?

Chris

Replace rubber boot/bump stop as needed. On older cars, consider replacing the Torrington bearing sandwiched in the upper plate that allows the front shaft to pivot.

Nothing else but hard steel.

I found that most all of the hardware was re-usable with a few exceptions. The back boots were completely deteriorated and I replaced those with generic 2.99 boots (Nissan charges an arm and a leg to stock those boots; 25 smackers a piece). The front boots were in great shape... the upper mounting plates were in fine shape and I didn't bother replacing them...

Speaking of rubber deterioration, how is the rubber sealing for your T-top? I am growing a bit worried with the look of some of the rubber and fear for future leaking. I fear the price and work of replacing the sealing....
-Anna

NXanna wrote:
>Can any of you make some suggestions on if this >repair manual will work? I really don't want to >cough out the money for the Nissan Mfg. manual

Anna,

The Haynes manual is good for a general overview
and many of the prcedures have photos which can
help, it's cheap too. If you are more hardcore
with mechanical work, get the FSM, so much more detail and that sucker pays for itself the first couple of times you use it. I'd stay away from the Chilton manual just because it covers too much other non B13 stuff.

>Speaking of rubber deterioration, how is the >rubber sealing for your T-top? I am growing a bit >worried with the look of some of the rubber and >fear for future leaking. I fear the price and >work of replacing the sealing....

Anything that is part of the t-top itself is gonna
cost the whole top. Your best bet is to apply a silicone based protectant on it periodically to
keep it soft. Another benefit is that this swells
the rubber some making a tighter seal.

:cool:

Dr. Kwak-

Indeed my worry of the sealing is more an issue that I am hoping to avoid for a bit longer and have begun the application of some rubber cleaner/rejuvenator.

I am thinking I am going to avoid the mfg. manual at all cost (literally and figuratively). I doubt I will do too much more to my little pocket rocket for a while.

Nici is a beauty... umm.. the car that is.. although I can see the connections with the other Nici (nothing like black rubber, eh)...

Noticed you did homebrewing on your site as well. Great hobby! I hope you make a good IPA... nothing like that second and third hop addition to the wort for a true wonder...

Anna

nxanna wrote:
>Indeed my worry of the sealing is more an issue >that I am hoping to avoid for a bit longer and >have begun the application of some rubber >cleaner/rejuvenator.

Anna,

That is really the best you can do short of new
seals. Stick with the silicone based protectant,
Armor-All and such aren't so good, actually weakens and fades the rubber over time. Go figure.

>I am thinking I am going to avoid the mfg. manual >at all cost (literally and figuratively). I doubt >I will do too much more to my little pocket >rocket for a while.

Well, asking questions around here will go a long ways too. If you really need more detail, scanning or faxing parts of the FSM can also work.

>Nici is a beauty... umm.. the car that is.. >although I can see the connections with the other >Nici (nothing like black rubber, eh)...

Thanks. The flesh and bone Nici made a good compliment to the rubber and steel Nici.

>Noticed you did homebrewing on your site as well. >Great hobby! I hope you make a good IPA... >nothing like that second and third hop addition >to the wort for a true wonder...

Hey a zymurgist! IPA is planned, though I have done other hoppy brews.

:D

I figure I am safe asking as many question on here as I can now that I found it. Last time I needed some torques I just went to Nissan Parts and the guy was incredibly sweet and photocopied the pages out of the MFG manual for the entire repair!... so I think I will stick with that for as long as it works and avoid forking out any money to own the ratty manual myself. Besides, I think my little pocket rocket is going to have to be replaced in the next few years.

A plan never hurts, eh? Haven't had the chance to brew much but an avid taster (can't beat the smell of the hops boiling)... Spent last year in the arms of CAMRA and the enjoyment of true bitters about the UK. So, are you a top or bottom fermentor? Lager or bitter?

Hope you were cheering for your hometown boy, Lance, in the Tour de France last month!

Semiconductors, eh? Nothing like the brain...

-Anna

Oh, the pain! How could anyone use the words FSM and ratty in the same sentence?!

The FSM is the BIBLE for our cars. I've been working on cars for a quarter-century. The Nissan FSM has saved my bacon several times. Worth every cent for the do-it-yourselfer.

Can I recant then? My problem is the price... I am part Scottish.. I am cheap... so, I am sorry. I know there are a lacking selection of decent repair manuals out there for our cars so I... I recant my mixing of verbiage (ratty and MFG. manual)... *smiles*

Although if you really want to show me the right path you could always buy one for me and ship it to me... just so I can verify how wonderful it is..

Anna

Originally posted by nxanna
Although if you really want to show me the right path you could always buy one for me and ship it to me... just so I can verify how wonderful it is..



ill be happy to verify too, send one whenever youd like :D