my temp gauge needle moves eractly when i press hard on the pedal it doesnt move to h it move to c then back to normal,does anyone have any suggestions on what could cause this to happen. second i over heated last nite while racing on the freeway,it wasnt hot, i pulled to the side of the road and coolent was overflowing my resevourtank(spell check) i let that shit cool down added more anti and drove it home. i realy hope i didnt worp the head or blown head gasket. i have a 98+avenier with front mount,greddi type s,stock exaust for the time being. if anyone has any suggestion i would greatly appriciate it. thank you.

Originally posted by edgar lopez
my temp gauge needle moves eractly when i press hard on the pedal it doesnt move to h it move to c then back to normal,does anyone have any suggestions on what could cause this to happen. second i over heated last nite while racing on the freeway,it wasnt hot, i pulled to the side of the road and coolent was overflowing my resevourtank(spell check) i let that shit cool down added more anti and drove it home. i realy hope i didnt worp the head or blown head gasket. i have a 98+avenier with front mount,greddi type s,stock exaust for the time being. if anyone has any suggestion i would greatly appriciate it. thank you.

You either have a loose connection/broken wire on your temperature gauge sensor (w/ spade connector) or the sensor is bad.

Steve

Sounds like you didnt replace the JDM temp sensors with the USDM ones off your old engine.

I didnt, and my guages do the same thing. Replace your thermostat. That wont fix your erratic guage, but odds are it will fix your overheating.

This is based on my experience and my engine, so YMMV..

Hey Edger it's Andy. How long has your car been acting funny like that? with the gauge I mean. ohh and a Front Mount intercooler is not too good for cooling a turbo car on a hot day. U might want to look into getting some stronger fans and have them on at all times. I'm goin to Fontucky Speed way this weekend for the street legal event in my car, come on down mang.

Hey whats up Edgar? This is unrelated to your over heating problems, probably. Anyways I know your turbo is faced down and you have a Avenir turbo well on the compressor housing there are two 10mm holes if there are no screws/bolts in them you a bleeding of compressed air thus making the turbo work harder to meet you desired boost.

Note: Only one of the 10mm holes needs to be pluged (the one that has air coming out of it) kind of stupid if you ask me why would they make it go all the way through. Remember this might not even apply to you if you still have that little dumbell shaped bar on the compressor housing that works as a mount for water line I believe. Anybody else out there with a factory FMIC SR20DET i.e... U13, W10, W11 im not sure if this is a problem with the BB U12. I figured this out buy taking my turbo apart for cleaning. Rebuild kit is only around $113.00 TDIY or and additional $175.00 THTDI if anyone is interested I'll give you the e-mail address.

My gauge did it too and the problem was that the connector had oil or some greasy stuff on it, hence interrupting the signal.

I have a BB DET swap with jdm sensors.

my friend had the same thing happen on his g20. when you press the gas under a load, the needle drops??? The dealership replaced his thermostat and the problem was fixed.

I too am having the weird temp guage movements under medium to full throttle. I'll check all the sensors, but I think I did blow my head gasket already. I was driving from Washington DC to richmond (95S) and the car started sputtering, pulled over, lots of bluish white smoke from the tail pipe. Checked the oil and coolant levels, both fine, but the car sounded like a harley, all putputtputtputt or like a car with a real extream cam. Anyway got it towed, so if I did blow the head gasket, any suggestions?

Currently running a Hotshot Turbo kit, with 300ZXTT fuel pump, 370cc injectors, stock MAF, 8.5 det pistons. I also just got it tuned up by Rosen and I'm making 235hp to the wheels at 15psi (211hp at 10psi), so hopefully the head gasket thing wasn't related to my dyno tuning.

Got my car towed last night, and my mechanic (he's a great mechanic, but no turbo expert by far) doesn't think it's the head gasket, the coolant and oil levels are all perfect. Any other ideas of what could cause a rough sound at idle and under throttle? i'll check the plugs... what about the waste gate, I have the delta gate - what happens if that goes bad? what are the symptoms?

thanks,
dave

dont know about that one could be a million things. But I thought the problem was the overheating with the nedle moving when on the gas. That is a bad thermostat. Replace it and it will go away.

You are probably running on 3 cylinders if it sounds like a Harley. Check your compression, you probably have 0 compression in one cylinder.

thanks, i'll do a compression test asap. I hope i didn't break anything too expensive...

Originally posted by charlie2020
Avenir turbo well on the compressor housing there are two 10mm holes if there are no screws/bolts in them you a bleeding of compressed air thus making the turbo work harder to meet you desired boost.


which ones, the ones that the shroud bolts to? are they facing left to right (from the front of the car) or front to rear?

HotshtSR20 I'll try to post a pic of what I am trying to describe. But I'll try again for now.

On the compressor housing for a U12 Bluebird this would be were the wastegate actuator bolts on to.

For a U13, W10, W11 this would be were the water line support bracket would bolt on to (I guess thats what you would call it).

oops, i think that bolt may have fallen out, was wondering why i was running rich

hey man,i saw your video thats impresive what set up are you useing,and at what psi was that done at. by the way are you still useing the stock tranny.
91 se-r
98 avenier
stock shit will let it breath soon....

i meant to type,to shawn not sean 97 200sx turbo,my bad sorry...

No, Im on my 2nd tranny. Run was done at 15psi with an f-max st 2 kit with the .63 turbine, s3 cams, UR pulleys, and ACT 6 puck clutch. Thats it.