I'm about to sell my B14 with U12 and gt2871r. I want to swap the motor in my B13 to a SR20VE. How much was the basic swap? I'd figure I would need the MSD switch, SAFC (use my stock ecu), and ACT HDSS clutch. About $2000 maybe?

I'm about to sell my B14 with U12 and gt2871r. I want to swap the motor in my B13 to a SR20VE. How much was the basic swap? I'd figure I would need the MSD switch, SAFC (use my stock ecu), and ACT HDSS clutch. About $2000 maybe?

Depends on where you get the motor also. I have an msd 8969 if you want it. You might as well go for a calum daughterboard instead of buying the safc imo. Don't forget the header also

I've got the 2.5" collector SSAC header for DE, but I assume with some port grinding, it will fit the VE as well?
Yeah, I'm also swaying towards the calum daughterboard if its plug and play. I dare say it, but how about ebay? I seen some for about $1500 SHIPPED. so is my figure of $2000 pretty accurate? I want to keep my B14, while I swap out my B13 with SR20VE.

Depends on where you get the motor also. I have an msd 8969 if you want it. You might as well go for a calum daughterboard instead of buying the safc imo. Don't forget the header also

Don't forget clutch and flywheel. Might as well pick up a different MAF too, the standard one is a bottleneck.

I've got the 2.5" collector SSAC header for DE, but I assume with some port grinding, it will fit the VE as well?
Yeah, I'm also swaying towards the calum daughterboard if its plug and play. I dare say it, but how about ebay? I seen some for about $1500 SHIPPED. so is my figure of $2000 pretty accurate? I want to keep my B14, while I swap out my B13 with SR20VE.

WHy buy it from ebay when you can get an sr20ve through forum vendors such as gspec (or Andreas Miko on the dash) for the same or cheaper price. Your playing guesswork when you buy from ebay because who knows if they actually check the motors like Andreas/ Greg V do.

If you don't mind running around and doing a money transfer into Miko's account go for it. Or pay with a credit car or paypal and not have to run around.

I bought 2 motors off ebay for alot cheaper then the vendor's on here and both were clean and run great.....just a fyi

Ebay's not always bad.......

Please if you can do it right
SSAC header [ port match ]
Calum basic ECU
maxima MAF or Z32
3 inch intake
3 inch exhaust

Disclaimer: The stated parts above are based on my opinion.

I bought 2 motors off ebay for alot cheaper then the vendor's on here and both were clean and run great.....just a fyi

Ebay's not always bad.......

SO have people with tigerjapanese, but your taking a greater risk. The vendors also supply you with products so you can modify your car. Without the help of Greg and Andreas you wouldn't be modifying your car the way it is today.

SO have people with tigerjapanese, but your taking a greater risk. The vendors also supply you with products so you can modify your car. Without the help of Greg and Andreas you wouldn't be modifying your car the way it is today.


I am in NO WAY whatsoever saying anything bad about those guys, God knows I have bought many, many things from greg V. I am just saying there are other places that sell good stuff thats all and that you don't always have to go to those guys......although I always check greg's prices before buying from someone else:tongue:

Paid $2k for mine, but then it had 7500 miles on it and the plugs looked like they'd been fired once. THEN came the japanese header you won't even find any more apparently for 6 bills, an 8969, a digital 6 plus to adjust the rev limit, 5 bills for the JWT ecu but do not pass go or collect 200, get one from Calum (he was just starting when I did mine), and probably another $500 easy in bits and pieces like the guages and doing the wiring correctly. You can probably do it for a lot less and still have it run. Oh yeah, the Pathfinder v6 maf and pop charger, etc. etc. Didn't open it up and do cams, ***. Now THAT's wierd - censorship over an abbreviation for though (t--h--o)

did any of you guys retain the AC? If so, any tricks to retain it when pulling the current motor out?

did any of you guys retain the AC? If so, any tricks to retain it when pulling the current motor out?


it's very easy. Take the radiator out of the car, then unbolt the a/c from the block. Then lower the motor out the bottom and move the compressor out of the way. Then when u pull the motor back up into the engine bay just move the compressor out of the way and bolt it back to the motor after u get the mounts back on it. Easy as 1, 2, 3 and u don't have to recharge shyt.

buy my car from the fs section. it has cold a/c, and N1's already for $2200 and you don`t have to locate parts or do the swap, you just have to drive to jacksonville FL :D

you may want to get a calum basic program for it though as it comes with the ve injectors.

dont do it, your gonna miss the power. i like the ve but getting rid of a turbo car for a slower car is just gonna get your furstrated.

stratton.

haha I know man, my car is scary fast. I want a reliable NA car to drive about 100 miles a day, but still have fun.

I probably will miss my turbo'ed car, but oh well. I actually liked the T25 the most because of the instant surge of power. I've got a GT2871r .86 a/r with S3 cams, and I've got gradual surge of power, but once its past 4krpm, she flys.


dont do it, your gonna miss the power. i like the ve but getting rid of a turbo car for a slower car is just gonna get your furstrated.

stratton.

put a stock DE in your seller, keep the turbo stuff to put on your VE, and don't ever suffer from slow-car-itis again:)

Depends on what ya wanna do. If all you can do is hold the wheel still to go in a straight line, then the turbo is for you. If you are competent enough to TURN the wheel while you're rolling, then you might want to either do a small hair dryer on any of the engines so you don't suffer with the excessive lag, or just do the VE NA. Remember that a stock VE is 11 or 11+ to 1; anything beyond a few pounds is gonna be hard on it unless you trade pistons. No doubt it's cheaper to hang a hair dryer on the stock DE. Roughly the same to go find a (good) turbo DE or NA VE to bolt in.

20v is 11 and normal VE's are 10.3.

20v is 11 and normal VE's are 10.3.

How come there isn't more 20v's out there?