See this thread: http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23525

I have the Avenir DET, top mount IC, BKR7E with Viteks, Walbro 255 & JWT POP. TIA gang! :D

It might be your gap. What did you gap your plugs at? If it is gapped too far apart, it will blow out the spark.

I always read about someone talking about what the gap should be on a DET it is exactly the same as the DE and that is .9mm or .035inch that goes for (GTi-R, BB, Avenir, S13-S15) and that is it you gap any closer than that you are doing more harm than good because you are taxing you ignition system. Now I know for the few that have shit loads of horse power that won't apply and in that case you need an upgraded ignition systems.

Q: Is the correct spark plug gap important?

Always use factory recomended gaps unless the engine has been modified. The manufacturer has designed the complete ignition system as a package; the voltage and timing of the spark from the ignition system is tailored for a specific plug gap. Changing the gap can lead to intermittent misfirng, which will foul the plug.
When altering the gap size for high performance ignition modifications, never go more than +/- 0.008" from the stock setting because the gap surfaces between the ground and the center electrode may not be parallel for larger changes. Higher compression or boosted engines generally require a smaller plug gap and a higher ignition voltage.

Got this off the internet

Gap was preset and identical to the ones that I removed that were gapped at .025. Maybe I need to take them out and set them at .035 and go from there until I reach the smallest gap with the best performance. Thanks guys! ;)

If it's not ur plugs, you need to check vacuum lines for leaks. Do you have anything T'ed off the FPR line?

Originally posted by 92SE-R
If it's not ur plugs, you need to check vacuum lines for leaks. Do you have anything T'ed off the FPR line?

Actually yes, the boost gauge and one other line is running off that. Why would it just now do it though, after 7 months? It does seem like I am running through gas like a 6,000 lb F350 though. I will do some regapping and then re-routing of the vac lines tonight! :D

If you have a leak in your FPR vacuum line, then you will run lean. You will detonate the shit out of your motor and eat your plugs. With no electrode on your plug, your car will sputter and blow out the spark and miss. Then you will start burning oil because you damaged your rings and scarred your cylinder walls from the ceramic of the plugs. Don't ask me why I know.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Don't ask me why I know.

how do you know terrin?

detonation sounds like dropping little pieces of gravel on glass. misfire sounds, and feels like utter crap, the car will sputter, buck, etc.

if you are detonating so hard your car is bucking, then your motor should have died, with a little peek-a-boo action from your rods. If your plugs have little white/sparkly flecks on them, or the electrode is gone or damaged, like it got hit by something, then you are detonating really badly.

if you have really dark plugs, or black ones, you have too much fuel, somehow, and it is causing you to misfire (dont ask me how i know)

if your plugs have heavy, dark brown, dry deposits on them, then you have a spark problem. check the resistance of your wires per the FSM, and check the coil, to see if the problem is eslewhere than your plugs. also, if you have a really weak spark (such as from a dead coil) your new plugs will foul in no time and make your car run like shit, misfiring all over the place, etc, again.

also, word to the wise, take those STUPID rubber grabber thingies off your spark plug sockets, they have this tendecy to fall off and get lodged down in your spark plug well, and are impossible to fish out of there as they are not magnetic. DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW!

thank you, drive through.

Ah ha!

Sparkplugs look normal, just really dark brown, a consistent color. If I ease on the boost, it wont do it, but if I am banging gears on the highway, then it does it sometimes, like I hit the rev limiter or something, dtttt, dtttt ,dtttt, dtttt, dtttt. Kinda of hard to spell the sound, but anyway, imagine a drag car on the staging lanes with a rev limiter ignition and he sets the rpm's at 4,000 until green, that sound is what I am getting.

sounds like misfire to me.

check your IC plumbing to make sure there isnt a leak that blows open at 10 psi, dont ask me how i know about that one either.

or, close your gap to .028, stock may be .035, but stock is also 6 psi of boost on 8.5:1 CR.

wait....you have Vitek wires?

dude, get some OEM ones, if you wan them to be pretty, cover them with that spark plug wire stuff. the viteks are another likely cause of your detonation

Originally posted by HotshtSR20
wait....you have Vitek wires?

dude, get some OEM ones, if you wan them to be pretty, cover them with that spark plug wire stuff. the viteks are another likely cause of your detonation

You da man!! Gap was set at .022! Dont know why they would be preset like that from Courtesy, prolly just a fluke or some employee at NGK having a little fun for himself. I set them at .030 and she loves it. I have the Viteks ONLY because I got them brand new for $50 shipped, thats it. So far they have held their own for me. Now to figure out why I am guzzling so much fuel, might be my lead foot too! ;)

yeah, the stock ignition holds a lot of power, as long as you close the gap.

glad to know you are running full bore now.

too little gap makes poor spark propagation, making poor combustion.

i have a question of my own. after getting 2 1/2 cat back put on, i have noticed that between shifts(4-5K rpms) it seems to pop, kind of like a back fire. any ideas.

Brian

Originally posted by TUNED200
i have a question of my own. after getting 2 1/2 cat back put on, i have noticed that between shifts(4-5K rpms) it seems to pop, kind of like a back fire. any ideas.

Brian

Man Mine has always done that, always. I was told if I put the resonator back in the B-pipe, that it would be virtually eliminated. Not sure if that is 100% true or not. I get the pop between 1-2 and 2-3, rarely between 3-4. :D

Test pipe? :) You should never just drop in plugs and assume they are pregapped. I don't know why people do this.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Test pipe? :) You should never just drop in plugs and assume they are pregapped. I don't know why people do this.

MOst plugs say do not gap on the box... I always check the gap anyway cause anywhere they can mess up they will...

Originally posted by TUNED200
i have a question of my own. after getting 2 1/2 cat back put on, i have noticed that between shifts(4-5K rpms) it seems to pop, kind of like a back fire. any ideas.

Brian

We had a discussion on this on superhonda, when I had my GSR... this happens a lot when you have larger diameter exhaust and muffler. its not so much of a deal with the oval shaped mufflers, but with straight through ones like the Apex'i N1 or Dunk... IIRC it has somethig to do with the throttle being closed and not opened right away. It happens more when you are lazy shifting. I believe it has a little to do with reversion. Also sometimes in turbocharged cars it is the extra fuel being ignited in the exhaust...

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Test pipe? :) You should never just drop in plugs and assume they are pregapped. I don't know why people do this.

Well Terrin, I was at my uncles place and decided enough was enough and had the plugs but no gapper with me. They looked identical to my original plugs, gapped at .025, so I went with it, only .003 off but enough to cause that problem. Its all good now, she loves the boost! Now to set it at 12.5 PSI! ;)